Evo won't start/ Which Engine Option?
 

Forum

Again I'm having problems with the Evo but I have some solution available to me now. So let's start with the problems. My evo has a starting issue. Sometimes when I start the car she will start but will cut off after 1 second of idling. Then after I try to start it again it will either just constantly crank or you will just here the fuel pump. I have a brand new redtop battery in there and the alternater is 1 year old. I took the car to P Tuning and of course when I went to start the car for them the car just started right up with now problem. I have recently replaced the MAF as well. OMG:mitsu:

Now, I am having a new fuel pump put in, some injectors, and a new o2 sensor while P Tuning has her but I really want to know what is going on. After it rains the car sometimes does this and other times there is no rain. I am thinking about getting a Buscher Short Block, getting a crate motor, or just getting mine rebuilt. I'm not sure which way to go. I want to just have street action. I'm not interested in autocross or any of that. I do enjoy 'driving enthusiastically' on the street with friends. I'm not trying to stroke my engine. She has 85K on the odo. Any light on either issue is appreciated.:helpme:

Read up on a thread by Ted B about intermitten starting problem.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...s-how-fix.html

Hope that helps.

did you try to contact your tuner for some help?

The shop says the want to: replace the idle control valve, replace the TPS, and remove the EGR and block it off. I asked them to install a new fuel pump (walbro) and they said it needs a retune. I told them to forget the retune. I was all happy at first with the shop but now I'm wondering... retune for fuel pump? Yeah right. Do you guys think that any of my symptoms involve any of the stuff mentioned?

I told them to hold off on everything except fixing a small oil leak they found. I have researched intalling the TPS and the IAC Valve and it looks like a PITA with adjusting screws and cables and all. I'm sure I can do it but if these things are not the culprit then......

The car will idle very high sometimes at idle. It will idle up to 2k with nothing on and hold that for about a minute or two and then relax back to 900 or so.

BTW I read the rain gremlin post. Very interesting but I don't have the Evo right now. It's at the shop so I can't really check for that stuff. I must say that the first time I had the issue of the non-start I did just wash the car and I am running that damned seibon hood with the vents in the middle and the sides.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...ine=1414619481

advice on what the shop is saying? I've got sensors in the cart.......

ttt

UPDATE!!!!!

So after getting new cam angle sensors, I found out today that the car's immobilizer was acting up. I went to FAA 3bit and set to 0. When I would put the key in to start and let it sit you could hear the ECU reading and then boom the immobilizer light (green light with key) would show up blinking in the cluster. WOW. I dropped like 1600 for this. Hopefully this helps somebody out down the road. Shop didn't even notice that.

FWIW:

Yes, if you get a new fuel pump that is a different size than the factory pump, you need a retune

Why? The fpr dictates fuel in the rail. A walbro 255 won't need a retune.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...fuel-pump.html


Listen to David Buschur if you don't want to listen to llDemonll

Buscher point taken. ||Demon|| point taken. I guess I would have ended up adjusting APR if richer conditions did arise but it helps to have insight before jumping in there.

It dictates pressure not volume