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Serpentine Belt removal and installation

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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:58 PM
  #31  
BoostedFury's Avatar
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From: Miami, Fl
I did this today after my belt broke off. I had drove for a mile before I noticed it. My question is, when I pulled over and stopped. The belt had all the pulleys stuck without allowing any of them to move....and I had driven like this.

Did this affect my timing or anything else?

I drove the car home moderately hard listening for noises out of the norm and found nothing. The car is definitely driving different than before though.

Any input?
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #32  
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From: Miami, Fl
Anyone?
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #33  
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From: Ft Lewis
well its quiet possible you did damage, personally i would have gotten it towed home,and i definatly would not have driven it moderatly hard thats just asking for trouble but thats just my 2 cents worth, without hearing or seeing it i cant really tell you if there is any damage done. I mean no offense driving diffrent doesnt really help us out much. Whats it doing? what conditions is it doing it under? underload? idle? things like this will help people better point you in the right direction.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #34  
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From: Miami, Fl
I only drove it about a mile with the belt broken problem, I was not aware of it until that point. The car started to over heat and then I turned it off and pulled over. I replaced the belt right there on the side of the road, and then drove home moderately hard to test for problems.

The major differences I'm noticing now is that idle is slightly lower than before and there is a high pitch sound in 1st and 2nd gear only under WOT acceleration around 5-7k rpm. Idle is around 750-850 at times, then goes back 1k. It's very random.

-Alex
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 05:18 AM
  #35  
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From: milwaukee
The Serpentine/Accessory Belt diagram is on page 11-29 of the 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII maintenance book.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 05:27 AM
  #36  
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From: milwaukee
You can download the entire manual here for free: (with the manual you can pretty much go step by step and tear down and re-build the entire engine)

scroll down to the middle of the page, click the BLUE download button, save as a zip file to your hard drive, unzip the entire folder (using winzip), open folder called "Manual"

http://www.ebooksquad.com/2009/06/05...upplement.html
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 05:53 PM
  #37  
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From: Lone Tree, CO
Thanks for the write up, took about 25 minutes total to do by myself.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 07:58 AM
  #38  
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I am close to ready for replacement of the serpentine belt.

For the removal of the belt, you take a breaker bar and slightly turn the auto-tensioner until it hits the stopper, then line up the holes on the auto-tensioner and lock in place using a hex wrench while putting on the new belt. My question is, once the belt has been replaced, do I need to turn the auto-tensioner clockwise until it hits a stopper in that direction? At that point, I assume the hex wrench would then be taken outwith the load back on the pulley?

Sorry for the potentially stupid question, I just couldn't find the answer on the forums or in the service manual. Thanks!
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #39  
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From: milwaukee
Originally Posted by cheb evo
I am close to ready for replacement of the serpentine belt.

For the removal of the belt, you take a breaker bar and slightly turn the auto-tensioner until it hits the stopper, then line up the holes on the auto-tensioner and lock in place using a hex wrench while putting on the new belt. My question is, once the belt has been replaced, do I need to turn the auto-tensioner clockwise until it hits a stopper in that direction? At that point, I assume the hex wrench would then be taken outwith the load back on the pulley?

Sorry for the potentially stupid question, I just couldn't find the answer on the forums or in the service manual. Thanks!

Once your actually underneath the wheel well of the car everything will be clear to you. It is really simple to do. First off stick the end of a 1/2'' breaker bar into the little square notch on the belt tensioner. This part can be seen as soon as you remove the wheel.

When you begin pulling (toward the front of the car) it will only go so far as to line up the hole where you need to insert the hex wrench (I used a big allen wrench and it worked fine). You will NOT have to do anything once the hex/allen is inserted into the hole. Make sure the hex/allen is all the way through (you can't really mess this up because it will either go all the way through or not all). The tensioner will automatically stop at the spot that needs to be lined up so don't worry because you can't "over shoot" the spot at all. You'll know what I mean once you start.

* One extremely helpful tip on removing and getting the belt on that I found to work is that you need to begin pulling the belt of from the alternator (all the way top, back, closest to the firewall)

* To get it back on begin from the front (closest to the bumper) and work your way back to the alternator that you pulled off from

I could not get the belt all the way onto the alternator, but I found a trick that works perfect:

Push the belt from the bottom of the car up onto the alternator as much as possible (at least 50% of the belt almost onto the alternator) if you cannot get it all the way on and it's at leas half on simply go put your keys in give it a few SMALL MINOR cranks (don't the car all the way over to on). This will pull the belt onto the alternator and will save you a ton of hassle. Trust me on this.

Than just check with a flashlight to make sure the belt didn't come off anywhere and that is it. Done.

Hope this helps a little.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 07:19 AM
  #40  
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From: Norfolk, VA
Originally Posted by dgkm1981
Once your actually underneath the wheel well of the car everything will be clear to you. It is really simple to do. First off stick the end of a 1/2'' breaker bar into the little square notch on the belt tensioner. This part can be seen as soon as you remove the wheel.

When you begin pulling (toward the front of the car) it will only go so far as to line up the hole where you need to insert the hex wrench (I used a big allen wrench and it worked fine). You will NOT have to do anything once the hex/allen is inserted into the hole. Make sure the hex/allen is all the way through (you can't really mess this up because it will either go all the way through or not all). The tensioner will automatically stop at the spot that needs to be lined up so don't worry because you can't "over shoot" the spot at all. You'll know what I mean once you start.

* One extremely helpful tip on removing and getting the belt on that I found to work is that you need to begin pulling the belt of from the alternator (all the way top, back, closest to the firewall)

* To get it back on begin from the front (closest to the bumper) and work your way back to the alternator that you pulled off from

I could not get the belt all the way onto the alternator, but I found a trick that works perfect:

Push the belt from the bottom of the car up onto the alternator as much as possible (at least 50% of the belt almost onto the alternator) if you cannot get it all the way on and it's at leas half on simply go put your keys in give it a few SMALL MINOR cranks (don't the car all the way over to on). This will pull the belt onto the alternator and will save you a ton of hassle. Trust me on this.

Than just check with a flashlight to make sure the belt didn't come off anywhere and that is it. Done.

Hope this helps a little.
Thanks buddy. So, it sounds like once I remove the allen wrench after replacing the belt, the autotensioner will go back to its original position, putting the correct tension on the belt.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 07:35 PM
  #41  
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Well, that was easy. I was trying to figure out why the belt seemed short and I couldn't remember the exact routing since I took it apart months ago. Looked up this thread, saw the diagram and had it done in 5 minutes flat by myself. I haven't found a thing on the car that I've needed a second hand with yet, you just have to be creative sometimes.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #42  
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just did mine with a gates belt from napa. 34 bucks and 34 minutes later it was good to go. very simple job. found it easiest to start around the ac and then to work your way forward, then from underneath the car place on the lower front pully and then the top front pully from above last. if anyone has questions on how to do so feel free to pm me. -Adam
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #43  
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From: Philly Burbs
thanks for all the tips and tricks guys. can anyone confirm that those are the correct part numbers for the belt? I just had my shop do my 60k service and fluid change but when I received the package from MAP it did not include the serpentine belt (probably my fault for not selecting that as an option or w/e). Anyway, i need or order and replace my serpentine belt as it is starting to fray. im at 65k, is that normal timing for replacement (04 8) ?

I am mechanically inclined. I have no problem doing piping, turbo, exhaust etc but never tried with the belts. seems simply enough, but I will grab an extra set of hands just in case.

does anyone have any pictures of step by step removal/installation? I do not have the manual so I am out of luck there. I want to follow some first hand instructions so I can do it right the first time. 100 bucks at Mitsu seems ridiculous so I will check out rockauto.

thank you all in advance, any guidance would be very much appreciated! feel free to PM me and I will give an email if that is easier. nice to see some actual help and feedback instead of the normal flaming/search posts (have searched, many times, no noob here.) thanks gents
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by boostedtres
thanks for all the tips and tricks guys. can anyone confirm that those are the correct part numbers for the belt? I just had my shop do my 60k service and fluid change but when I received the package from MAP it did not include the serpentine belt (probably my fault for not selecting that as an option or w/e). Anyway, i need or order and replace my serpentine belt as it is starting to fray. im at 65k, is that normal timing for replacement (04 8) ?

I am mechanically inclined. I have no problem doing piping, turbo, exhaust etc but never tried with the belts. seems simply enough, but I will grab an extra set of hands just in case.

does anyone have any pictures of step by step removal/installation? I do not have the manual so I am out of luck there. I want to follow some first hand instructions so I can do it right the first time. 100 bucks at Mitsu seems ridiculous so I will check out rockauto.

thank you all in advance, any guidance would be very much appreciated! feel free to PM me and I will give an email if that is easier. nice to see some actual help and feedback instead of the normal flaming/search posts (have searched, many times, no noob here.) thanks gents
i just bought one from napa.. its made by gates and i believe the part # was 60705 it was 35 bucks so pretty cheap too
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 08:10 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by AdamWest
i just bought one from napa.. its made by gates and i believe the part # was 60705 it was 35 bucks so pretty cheap too
hell yeah i bought mine at autozone yesterday for $32
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