now that you have your pin half way out take your flat head screw driver to hold the spring back while you hit the rest of the pin out.
The spring should slip rite out then you are ready to do the next pin.
once you have the pins and the spring out of the way the pads should slip rite out.

4) now slide your new pads in, it might be a little tricky if the pistons aren't pushed all the way pack in, so just take your c clamp and press them in some more and you can wiggle the disc around too to get the pads in.[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

5) when you finally get the pads in, you can start putting it all back together. slide one of the pins all the way through . you will need to align the pads with the pin holes to get it in. now gently hit the back side of the pin so that it is flush with the caliper. Now place one end of the spring under the pin and hold the other end down with your flat head screw driver. it is a little tricky to align the holes and hold the spring while you are trying to slide in the last pin all at the same time, but you will eventually get it. now you are finished and can start the other side. once your done with everything and you put you wheels back don't forget to pump your brakes!

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-93111.html

Get a set of those

Did my brakes with them recently. Just punch the pins out then push the pads apart from each other until you can pull them free. SUPER easy. don't even need to try and hold that clip off the pin while punching out the pin because the punch pin will hold it in place and you can catch it as you pull the pin out

 

Damn! those would have come in handy. I will purchase some for the next time around.

 

I use a nail with no point for the pins.

Remember high temp lube is your friend and while there, if the rotor has an outer edge, get some sand paper and remove the lip as much as u can.

Also I take the opportunity to give the caliper a bleed to make sure pressure is good and to bleed the fluid that was heated in the caliper area, maybe 4-5 times each bleeder, yes inside and outside.

 

So now that the job is completed, when i brake sometime there is a loud howling/squeak noise but only at low speed braking. It's really annoying. is this what the high temp grease is for? You also mentioned sanding down the lip of the rotor? what is the point of that. (just asking)

 

Well it seems u have metal to metal contact.
Some points that should be lubed.
The back of the pad as it touches the caliper.
The sides of the pad as it rubs on the caliper.
The pins as the pad slides on them.
The tensioner(bent plate that goes under the pins) contact part with the pad.

As for the outer edge, this can be a culprit of that noise/howl u r experiencing. I experienced that already.

I have seen mechanics in yrs gone by, break the edges of the pad so they are rounded instead of square. Some are rough and could be a noise maker until it wears.

Check the above, one should be the reason.

 

So I went to O'reilly auto parts and bought some brake grease. I got back home and took all the pads off and brushed the back off the pads with it. I also brushed some grease on the pins and the springs, Then i put it all back together and went for a test drive. The end result was quiet braking, it worked! I was actually surprised it worked, now I will use it every time and recommend everyone to use it because squeaking/howling pads are annoying especially if they were just replaced.

 

Is there any particular sequence to bleeding the brakes on the EVO?

I have my calipers off right now, whoever did them last (before I purchased the vehicle) cross threaded the lower bolt on the passenger side. It was sticking out 1/2 inch and wouldn't screw in further, is how I found out. I am having it rethreaded and plan on repainting while the calipers are off.