The cables are pretty easy to see. One is black and one is blue. They are clipped in with black metal clips to white rotating pastic pieces. I swapped out my HVAC last night and it only took about 20 min start to finish. I also noticed that all the movable parts in the HVAC system were lubricated. When looing at my broken HVAC I noticed that there was hardly any lubricant left. I think this is what was causing the problem with the temp knob being hard to turn.

 

How are the new ones working? My knob was a pita to turn from day one. It had never been "easy" to turn. It eventually broke off. I just use the big gear under the dash to adjust temps now. For those who don't know where it is, it is on the driver side under the dash on the center. Just look under your dash on the driver side and you will see it, can't miss it.

 

Its much better than it was but it is still stiffer than any other vehicle I have ever owned.

 

What type of lubricant do you think would work well? I have some basic MPL but I don't think that'll be a long-term solution.

 

Got under there tonight, found the problem. The cable operating the bracket/main gear is kinking under the load. I lubed all the gears with grease, opened and closed it about 15 times to work everything in, even sprayed some wd40 for good measure, but that cable keeps kinking under the load. I'm going to try to find the part # for it and order a new one to see if that solves the problem.

If the new one still kinks, then it's a problem with the HVAC system, and I'll just manually operate the f(&#er.

It's a pretty crappy erector-set setup anyway. Don't the newer models have motorized ones? I wonder if you could retrofit one of those in it's place I'd definitely scope the graveyards for a busted evo/galant/etc and gut the motorized HVAC if it would work.

for now, i wait on the cable.

 

Oi, okay, replaced the cable...and it's still junk. I've lubed everything, and that's not the problem...as you can't get to the central crankshaft that's inside. The central gear that the cable works through two other offset partial gears is just an insert into the shaft itself, which is sealed. The only way I can see to fix this problem is to open up the unit and get inside...which I don't see how to do without pulling the hole Fing dash out.

Seems like the internals need lubrication, as the actuator cable isn't strong enough to move the central gear anymore without bending. I even tried clamping some additional metal sheathing around the exposed cable to stiffen it up, it just kinked in a different area.

What a piece of junk. I hate spending time on lost causes:-p Anyone try retrofitting any of the newer electronic/vacuum assisted units they use in the current models?

 

 

TSB-04-55-003 It's more than the knob the problem starts at the blend door.


http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/...tsb0455003.zip

 

^^^what's the zip file?

 

Tsb-04-55-003 it shows all the steps to fix the problem.

 

+5

thanks bro. that's an awesome help. 3.3 hours for the labor is going to suck, tho. And the discharge of the ac, and reload. I'm going to grab the "modified" new levers to see if that solves the problem...

Funny how this could be prevented if they just installed a stupid cabin filter to begin with (already installed one a few months ago).

 

i once saw (and thought I had) a more in-depth set of instructions with more pics for this TSB, and it included getting the entire unit out. I haven't been able to find it, but will keep looking. yes, it looks like you will have to remove the whole damn dash.
it's been in the 90's here and even on the coldest setting the AC is barely cold, and blows burning hot air at the same time out of other vents, it never goes to "feet" setting, and the adjustments don't do anything they are supposed to. i can't take it anymore, and am just going to hire my friend's shop to dot it, since i know i'll bust all kinds of clips and never get the dash in without it rattling and squaking forever. a big "f-you" to regarding this whole mess.

 

+1 Mitsu engineers really let us down with certain departments in their design. This is just one of them.

 

Wait.. so its not covered under warranty from dealers?

 

not if you're out of your 3 year/35k mile warranty.