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How To: Blox Front Motor Mount Install

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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 10:20 PM
  #16  
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Nice write up and great pics. I've been debating this for a while. You said in the first post that you didn't get hardly any NVH or vibration? Has it stayed that way?
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:49 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by tstevens
Nice write up and great pics. I've been debating this for a while. You said in the first post that you didn't get hardly any NVH or vibration? Has it stayed that way?
Yup! To this day no vibrations or annoying buzzing. Car just feels better.

-pal215

Last edited by Pal215; Feb 7, 2012 at 11:54 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #18  
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4. At this point I slid a jack under the trans to keep the entire assembly from settling. This was just a precautionary measure.
is this necessary .what if i did in a open bay/pit have no support will it be fine?
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 10:34 PM
  #19  
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i did mine without supporting it, im sure 3 motor mounts can hold the engine up.
plus i read on someones thread the bolt hole for the the front mount is loose anyways so the engine can torque or whatever.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 07:06 PM
  #20  
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nice write up
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 12:14 PM
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nice DIY!!
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Old May 1, 2012 | 09:57 PM
  #22  
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Nice write up man! Doing mines this weekend. Wishing for better and smooth shifts.
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Old May 1, 2012 | 10:29 PM
  #23  
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Nice write up!!
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Old May 2, 2012 | 07:01 AM
  #24  
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Thumbs up just did this yesterday

I just did the install of the Blox mount on my 05 MR yesterday .

Install: no issues in the install itself. I do have the BeatRush full aluminum undertray and that takes more time to remove. I did not find any of the bolts to be frozen or hard to remove. Everything was original BTW 79K . I did see that the original engine mount through bolt hole was much larger than the bolt itself...more on that later. Rest of install was straight forward.. I used antiseize on all bolts during install. For the install I actually inserted the through bolt first and then lined up the rear bolt, then the 2 front bolts, screwing them in by hand. this avoids the slight misalignment of the through bolt others have found during the install. All bolts were then torqued to spec.

Impressions:
Despite what others have said, you will notice an increase in the vibration at idle. The stock mount was completely vibration free, the Blox you can feel in the steering wheel. It becomes more evident if the a/c is blowing. My idle is at stock specs. The vibration does go away off idle ~1K. Driving impression..i installed this to help with shifting into 2nd which has always felt very notchy and during cold weather even a slight crunch. Was not helped by different fluids so i run Diaqueen after experimenting back in the day. Anyways, i did notice a different feel to second gear shift, slightly easier to get it in. 3-4-5-6 have always been very slick...no change at all on that. Putting the car into first is still slightly notchy when cold..we'll see what happens during the Georgia winter.


Overall i'd be happier if there was less vibration but understand the stiffer material will transmit more NVH. Im pretty **** about noise in my MR though. I have done this before on other cars and i have to say doing just the blox front mount does keep the NVH to an acceptable level.

Back to the large hole in the original Mitsu front mount. For those people who want decrease the slop but wont consider stiff poly mounts, i suggest the following. Find a nylon or aluminum sleeve ( Home Depot ) that just fits into the hole in the mount and then drill it to just fit the factory bolt. This will take some slop out of the system making the rubber take all of the force rather than the engine moving until the bolt hits the metal sleeve.Ii would expect the stock mount to deteriorate quicker this way though.

Your experience may vary :-)

Last edited by WRC-LVR; May 3, 2012 at 12:14 PM.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 11:53 AM
  #25  
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I noticed the same vibration WRC-LVR. Does yours go away when you go slightly above idle? It seems if I hit like 1k maybe 1.1k rpm the vibrations go away entirely.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #26  
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re vibration

Originally Posted by vortico
I noticed the same vibration WRC-LVR. Does yours go away when you go slightly above idle? It seems if I hit like 1k maybe 1.1k rpm the vibrations go away entirely.

Yes anything above 1k i get no no vibrations at all. Fast cold idle no vibrations either. Vibration is noticeable and my Autometer EGT, mechanical oil and boost gauges also reflect the vibration. It isnt real harsh otherwise I would rip it out and do what I suggested with the stock mount ( sleeve the center bolt ) but if it gets worse then I may consider it....essentially I replaced it to help with cold shifting and the notchy feel of 1st gear and second gear.... it has helped with that so I will wait to see how things progress.

Thanks for the inquiry

L8r

Last edited by WRC-LVR; May 3, 2012 at 12:16 PM.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 01:30 PM
  #27  
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I just did this install half hour ago.and I honestly can't feel any vibration.Maybee because I haven't had the opportunity to drive n warm up the car properly?Also I did not have any issue installing the mount.I work at a Jiffy lube so I was able to pull the car into the shop this morning n went to work.(I have a cool boss let's me work on my car whenever not busy)anyway the mount slid in perfectly did not have to pry anything holes all alligned perfect.hardest part was taking off n reinstalling dam undertray.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #28  
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Just finished mines. Reporting almost no vibrations. Very little and no passenger complaints.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #29  
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I've heard this also preserves the trans case if you launch a lot.Is it necessary to replace the rear one as well to really increase the chances of preserving the t/case?
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 03:42 AM
  #30  
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Great write up.

Anyone know if Blox CT9A and CP9A front roll stopper motor mounts the same?
I got a VI...
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