pre2dat

I saw a YouTube video with an Evo that had the led switchbacks with the day time running lights (DRL) and thought, "I want that look!" Naturally, I went to the Evo and checked out the signal harness and bulb to see if a switchback LED would be a simple plug and play. This was not the case. The signal harness has (2) wires only (+ and - for the turn signal). The LED switchback wouldn't work without customization. This How-To DIY hopefully will help those who are interested in the Mod.
. The following is a list of parts that I used:
Part list update:
The Male connector is: Lanian 2Pcs 7440 Male Head Ceramic Extension Connector Plug Socketwith Wire Harness Heavy Duty Adaptor - $4.15
The New Harness for the LED Bulb is: SODIAL(R) 2 Pcs T20 7443 LED Bulb Brake Turn Signal LightSockets Harness Wire Plugs - $2.86
The LED Bulbs from iJDMTouy were: iJDMTOY (2) High Power White/Amber 7443 7444 Swithback LED Bulbs For Front Turn Signal Lights, Powered by SAMSUNG SMD LED - $32.99
(2) resistors
extra lengths of wire
preferred method to connect wires (heat shrink/solder, wire connectors, etc.)
tool to check power; voltage meter or circuit tester
*** DISCLAIMER: If you mess anything up, it's on you.



Males harness extension 7440


7443 harness


Resistors
*** These are optional if you want to cure the hyper flash. I opted for them to keep a stock look when signaling; however, I must admit that I like the faster flashing. Just don't need any extra attention, especially from the Five-0! LOL


7440 LED switchback bulbs (got mine from iJDMtoy)

*** Research and see what bulbs you want. I liked how the iJDM bulbs only blink amber while signaling vise bouncing from white to amber; gives it a more factory look and crisper IMO.

Here we go! Let's get to the meat and potatoes!
Get access to the area in front of the front tires/behind the bumper, under the headlight. I took off the front wheels but you may be able to turn the wheel in a direction to give you access.


Gaining entry!
Pop out the panel clips or cut the zip ties in my case and peel back the fender liner to gain entry to the signal and DRL harness.


The harness that you see with the blue and red wire is the DRL. We will be tapping into the + of this harness to power the DRL connection later.


Signal light harness


Another pic of the signal harness. (It's the skin toned one if it wasn't obvious)

Now with everything accessible, remove both harnesses from the housing and perform a functions check to be sure that everything works and lights up before going any further.



Factory DRL funtions check

Funtions check complete; DRL, signal and fender signal all functional

Unplug the 7440 signal bulb and plug in the male 7440 connection in place of the bulb you just removed.
From here, check which wire has power by turning on your signal. (It really doesn't matter what color is drawing power when it signals however, I like to keep my power to be on the red wire to keep everything consistent.


Comparing the 7443.harness to the factory 7440
The factory has a triangular shape. To my surprise, the new one turned and locked into place securely.

Moving along to the new 7443.
There are (3) wires coming off from it;
(1) individual one for the ground (mine was a green black)
and (2) power wires, (1) for the signal (black/white on mine) and (1) for the DRL (red/blue on mine)

Now with the wires identify, you can begin making our connections.
Start with the ground and the power to the signal.
*** This is where you would also connect the resistor as well, to cure the hyper flash.


Ground and power to signal connected w/o resistor
*** PLEASE READ MY UPDATED POST BELOW***
***This is where I used adhesive to "glue" the bulb into the harness***
(The below post explains my reasoning to as why I had to do this)



- and + of signal wires connected with resistor (one to - and one to +)

Next we have (1) wire left; the power to the DRL. Again, on the new harness, it's the red/blue. On the Evo, the drivers side DRL + wire is the red one.
On my set up, I used a tap and ran a lead to the new harness. With this connection, the DRL switchback MOD is in true reality, COMPLETE! You can perform a functions check, put the bulbs back into the housing do a final functions check, button everything up; and call it a day!
But, since I was here, I went ahead and did the fender signal MOD.
*** This will turn the fender signal into an amber DRL and (flash signal) when the signal switch is activated.


Unplug the fender signal housing


Identify the negative (-) for the fender signal light
I moved the signal assembly to the inside of the wheel well to make it easier to work with vice stretching it from it's original home.
Peel back the sleeve / or cut the sleeve to have wire to work with (I used pliers to cut my way up.
*** CUT the negative wire that goes to the Evo.
Now, connect the negative (-) from the assembly (in your preferred method, I just tapped it) to the positive (+) of the DRL.



Negative (-) fender signal wire from fender signal assembly


Everything connected, minus the resistor (i installed a resistor after seeing how it came out with the hyper flash. Opted out after seeing the look.)

*** Functions check! Put the LED switchback bulb in and test the signal and DRL. Make sure each are working properly.
Reassembly; install the harnesses to their original home on the headlight assembly.
I there is a clearance issue with the LED bulb, it's too long. To make room for it to clear, remove the bolt to the cross beam, attached to the quarter panel.


Cross beam bolt (the one that is missing in photo attaches to the headlight, you do not need to remove this one)
*** Now with everything buttoned up; perform a final functions check



LED DRL with fender light now an amber DRL


DRL to switchback signal

*** Repeat for fhe ofher side; It was way faster the second time around.


Fuse box located in engine by the battery

in the event that you blow a fuse, it'll be in here. Yep, I goofed a couple of times but luckily it was just the fuse that blew.

Wheels back on and enjoy your new look!

pre2dat

Part list update:
The Male connector is: Lanian 2Pcs 7440 Male Head Ceramic Extension Connector Plug Socket with Wire Harness Heavy Duty Adaptor - $4.15
The New Harness for the LED Bulb is: SODIAL(R) 2 Pcs T20 7443 LED Bulb Brake Turn Signal Light Sockets Harness Wire Plugs - $2.86
The LED Bulbs from iJDMTouy were: iJDMTOY (2) High Power White/Amber 7443 7444 Swithback LED Bulbs For Front Turn Signal Lights, Powered by SAMSUNG SMD LED - $32.99

I hope this help those who would like to do this look. Test drove the Evo last night to see how it would look on the road (safely looking at the reflection from anything that reflected), and I am really happy with this MOD. Having the fender markers stay on amber and blink when signaling stands out to me. Gives the front end an extra touch.

pre2dat

Update (1):
The Male connector (Lanian 2Pcs 7440) is actually not needed. The reason why I wanted to use it, was so that I did not have to cut the factory harness completely off. For some reason, I wanted to be able to go back to the stock configuration if I wanted to.
Thanks again for everyone who checked this out!

SW20Mike

iTrader: (6)

Nice write up, I'd like to do this mod one day. One thing I noticed in a YouTube video for a different vehicle, is you can now purchase a flasher made for LED turn signals, so you won't get the hyper blink and won't have to wire in a resistor.

pre2dat

I saw those bulbs too... (after I had already ordered the ones I got)! Let us know how your install goes when you complete it. Cheers!

pre2dat

Wanted to share an issue that I came across concerning the Male harness for the 7440 and the LED bulb:
The harness that I bought, in time, loses it's hold on the bulb and "spits" it out. (This may have been because I bought a cheap harness)
*** Solution that I used:
I applied badge adhesive to the back of the LED bulb and literally "glued" it to stay in the harness.

End of the day, I do not want to wish the headache to anyone if I could avoid it. Fishing the LED bulb out of the housing is a real PITA!