jemm

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How to change the brembo pads ... Front and Rear.


A lot of our longstanding EvoM members have done this already so it may be old news to some, but I thought it would be helpful to others.

Equipment :

(1) Jack and stands, of course one should never use the factory jack to support the car.
(2) Philips screwdriver.
(3) Needle nose pliers
(4) Ultra high temperature Copper Anti-Seize compound (eg. Permatex Cu lubricant http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=09128)
(5) High temp copper silicone
(6) Brake cleaner & shop towels.
(7) Hammer.

jemm

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Step 1

Jack up the car and support the corner(s) with stand(s)

remove the wheels.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 2

Using a suitable tool (eg. the point of a philips screwdriver) tap out the pins (A), pull the out from the other side (B) while carefully removing the Anti-squeal shim (C)

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 3

Now is a good time to clean off all that brake dust and to visually inspect the caliper, lines etc.


Always remember to wipe off the brake cleaner as this can strip the caliper laquer! Also, be careful not to scrape the caliper ... this will quickly take off the laquer and expose the ugly powdercoating

jemm

iTrader: (2)

note : the remainder of the pics will feature the rear brakes, the only thing to watch out for with the fronts is that there are 2 pistons on each side..... makes pushing back the pistons a bit tricky.


STEP 4

Remove one pad at a time.... I find a needle nose pliers useful, In the picture you can see that I am using a cloth to protect the caliper. Leave the other pad in place.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 5

Use a Flat head screwdriver or 10mm wrench (wrapped in a cloth) to push the piston slowly back into the caliper. Having the other pad in place prevents the other piston from shooting out... which WILL **** you off!

If you are lucky, your autoparts store may have a tool that is made to push back both pistons..

Unfortunately I don't have one (yet).

Here is an example:

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 6 : Prepare the new pads


Apply some copper antiseize compound to the back plate and side rails as shown.

APPLY SPARINGLY

DO NOT GET IT NEAR THE PAD SURFACE

jemm

iTrader: (2)

From the shop manual :

The stock grease dries out in no time with the temperatures that these brakes tend to reach... this copper anti-seize lubricant is rated up to 1800*F!!

Properly lubricating these areas makes for less brake noise (dampens vibrations) and prevents RAIL to PAD rusting and seizing ... (see next pic)

jemm

iTrader: (2)

This is a shot of an Endless pad that was not lubricated, notice the rust on the sides? .. friction here = noise!

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 7

For proper orientation of the OEM pads... an easy rule of thumb to remember is = The pad with the metallic wear indicator must go on the OUTSIDE of the disc!!

Insert the new pad .. careful not to get the lubricant on the rotor! .. you can now work on pushing pack the other piston.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

2 New pads in place!

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 8 : Anti Squeal shim noise suppression


The Anti-Squeal shim is a major source of noise with these brakes. If you look closely at these (I have cleaned off the tips .. which you should do) ... you will see where the metal has been scraped due to friction with the pad....

friction = noise.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 9


Apply some high temperature (go for the Copper stuff) silicone to the areas where the AS shim would normally contact the pad.

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 10


Assemble back the AS shim and the pins. Make sure to tap the pins securely back into place!

jemm

iTrader: (2)

STEP 11

Double check everything and repeat for the other wheels.