You can adjust the brightness. (you can also change the color to green)


Any green pics?

 

One more thing I took off my blue condoms from my backlighting bulbs awhile ago and with these overlays it is to much light that bleeds through the white faces. Also I have leaks of white light around my right side of my gas gauge. Once I correct these to probs perfect. They look great during the daylight just need to fix those to problems.

 

did someone said anything about how accurate these are?

looks like it goes upto 10000 RPM and 180mph.

I don't know how accurate these would be.

 

I think they just extended the range of the tach and speedo, so the normal range is still in the same scale (so accuracy isn't an issue).

As far as the stock bulbs bleeding through the white, thanks for the tip. I had also taken the blue boots off my bulbs to make them brighter, so I'd have had the same problem. I hadn't even thought of that. It seems like we could remove those old bulbs altogether.. as long as they're not also the same light source that illuminates the needles.

I got my stuff shipped to me two days ago... probably the fastest shipping experience I've ever had with an ebay order. The stuff looks way nicer than I was expecting. It's manufactured.. not some homemade crap.

I lit them all up on a bench using a power supply. The "green" setting is actually more of a pure blue, and the "blue" is more of a bright purple. I like them both quite alot actually. The only negative I noticed was that at the blue setting, if you crank up the intensity all the way, the power inverter tends to whine a bit. I don't know if you'd be able to hear it in the car, and I can't imagine why you'd ever want it cranked up that bright anyway, so I don't think it's a problem.

Question: the wire on the cluster that they say to tap into.. is it a switched parking light circuit, or is it just switched ignition? I don't want the guages on all day long, so I plan to tie it into the parklamp circuit instead. (it only draws a max of 70mA, so it should work okay). My buddy designs instrument clusters for a living, and he says that running sheet-EL constantly will cause it to fade over time, plus I think it looks better in daytime with the lighting completely off.

 

Pretty sure you need to leave those bulbs in. Maybe not all but some for the warning indicators. Now I have to find new blue covers, throw my old ones away dumb dumb dumb.

 

I wnat to add the white face gauge but also the carbon fiber around it. I was wondering where i can get that.

 

Okay, I did my install last night. Overall, it went very smoothly.

- I recommend using double sided tape to keep the faces held tightly down. I used some industrial Scotch-brand squares that we use in some of our assembly plants.

- The white bleed through isn't really a bleed through from the new gauges. It's actually white light leaking out from the base of the needle hubs. I think it's always been there, you just don't see it on the black surface. Changing to white makes it more noticable. I put the blue boots back on to reduce the effect, but that also reduces the needle intensity back to stock levels, so it's a trade off.

- The point where each EL sheet is connected to wires has a section of heat shrink tubing over it. I found on the bench that if it's not perfect, some EL light can leak out at that point, so I put a small (~2mm x 5mm) strip of electrical tape on the edge to eliminate any other leaks. I did this on every connector.. not sure if it was necessary or not, but there aren't any light leaks in this area at all, and it only takes a minute.

- The wires all seem to already have very nice channels to route them out of the cluster. The only problem is the speedo one comes out at the top, so you have to route it carefully, and the bezel snaps on a little snugly.

- I tied my positive power feed into the external parklamp circuit. It's a green wire w/white stripe, located in the white connector on the bottom of the fuse box (under the steering column). It's the same wire you tie into to power your park lamps with your remote starter or alarm system. Now, the needles turn on like they did before (with key on), and the backlighting comes on with the parking lights.

These overlays are much nicer than I was expecting. I'm really happy with the results. The only downside is the white glow from under the pointer hubs, but that's the fault of the crappy original Mitsu cluster design, not the overlays.

Rob

 

i just got my gauges and they look nice! yet you just put them over the oem ones right? Any tips for these? i dont wanna mess around with the needles. Also how can i hide the wiring so that the gauges fit perfect. thanks, and still no feedback on the carbon fiber background

 

even though the gauges are metered out to 10k rpm and 180mph all of the marks match up with the factory numbers. there are just "extra" ticks on the new guages.


i verified that 0 / 20 / 60 / 100 matched on the speedo and 2 / 5 matched on the tach...

i also did a "before guages" speed run with my father's G35c set to 66 mph (when the EVO read 65) and once again, "after guages" with the same result.

 

Hey all the guages just sold...Thanks Harry, and all those who were interested.

Mike

 

I had a set similar to these in my last car made by AC Autotechnic... these actually look better i think since the removal of the center ring... the stockers really suck... thanks all for posting up some pics...

one question though, these don't come with double sided tape??? my last set did... oh well... guess i'll have to hit up walmart the night before... hehe...

gonna hook it up with the Green/white parking light lamps...

 

Just bought this off ebay, can't wait for it to arrive!!!!

 

I have since noticed two very minor annoyances with these gauges.

1. The green intercooler symbol is hard to read in bright sunlight.

2. The low fuel light is gone! There simply isn't a hole cut for the light to come through. This seems to be the only indicator they forgot to include.

Like I said, they're both very minor issues. I still absolutely love these things.

 

nevermind.

 

mine has the spot for the low-fuel indicator - do you have the first-run (with the center ring) or the second run (without)?

as for the I/C indicator...i noticed the same thing so i carefully opened the slot (around the edges mainly) with an Xacto