Engine Bay Pics
Engine Bay Pics
This is after I probed the EGT, added a boost guage, Injen, H34 BOV, XS boost controller, Walbro, and Turbo Timer. I'm pressing a spike to 24psi then taper to about 22.5. The car feels significantly faster, getting it all tuned on Monday. All of you Intake haters, when you get it tuned, it doesn't make a difference. It REALLY lets your exhaust sound comeout. Man, my HKS turbo back sounds like a racecar exhaust now.
this belongs on show and shine my friend. but otherwize your egt probe should be in the second runner closest to the head. as im told.
now get a shiny manifold cover. drill a hole in it so your egt probe can fit and put it on. looks like *** right now to be real with you but i think if you put that cover on it will complement it ALOT
now get a shiny manifold cover. drill a hole in it so your egt probe can fit and put it on. looks like *** right now to be real with you but i think if you put that cover on it will complement it ALOT
Looks decent. I know in dsm's the #1 runner was the hottest so that's where I put my egt probe. If evo's are the same then he did it correctly. However after hearing the horror stories of egt probes breaking I would have just put it in the downpipe IMO.
Originally Posted by DSMEVOLUTION
Looks decent. I know in dsm's the #1 runner was the hottest so that's where I put my egt probe. If evo's are the same then he did it correctly. However after hearing the horror stories of egt probes breaking I would have just put it in the downpipe IMO.
Originally Posted by DSMEVOLUTION
Looks decent. I know in dsm's the #1 runner was the hottest so that's where I put my egt probe. If evo's are the same then he did it correctly. However after hearing the horror stories of egt probes breaking I would have just put it in the downpipe IMO.
Originally Posted by Light
U need to clean that engine bay.also hows that turbo xs bov h34, i had it on my suby and got rid of it real quick. That sucker leaks badly.
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Yes, the BOV and MBC choices are terrible. You'll regret those later. As for the header, getting a tubular just because you think the manifold is ugly just makes no sense. If you port and coat it, then it won't rust and will look great. A tubular header is not needed on the stock turbo, will make less power than the ported stocker, will be prone to cracking, and will look like *** after it gets hot, because it changes from shiny chrome to what looks like a infant making a watercolor picture of mixed brown/black/blue/red.
The intake will work fine with a good tune.
The intake will work fine with a good tune.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Yes, the BOV and MBC choices are terrible. You'll regret those later. As for the header, getting a tubular just because you think the manifold is ugly just makes no sense. If you port and coat it, then it won't rust and will look great. A tubular header is not needed on the stock turbo, will make less power than the ported stocker, will be prone to cracking, and will look like *** after it gets hot, because it changes from shiny chrome to what looks like a infant making a watercolor picture of mixed brown/black/blue/red.
The intake will work fine with a good tune.
The intake will work fine with a good tune.
All the TXS MBCs have the same problem, and you won't know until you log the boost via MAP sensor. Many people put things on their Evo and claim things are "working fine," but they really don't know. It's not until they dyno or hit the track or get datalogged by whomever custom tunes them that they realize that "fine" wasn't so "good." I guess heat wrapping it is fine, but you'd be better of porting and coating it.
What do you mean by "there's not many other choices that are bypass valves." Most of the aftermarket choices are "bypass" valves. That's just another name for diverter valve. The JDM MR DV and Forge RS are the top choices, and there are plenty of others. The good thing is that it's recirculating, but I'm not sure what prompted you to get TXS products instead of the better-performing versions. No, I'm not saying you have to get all Buschur/Forge products, but TXS is at the bottom of the list.
What do you mean by "there's not many other choices that are bypass valves." Most of the aftermarket choices are "bypass" valves. That's just another name for diverter valve. The JDM MR DV and Forge RS are the top choices, and there are plenty of others. The good thing is that it's recirculating, but I'm not sure what prompted you to get TXS products instead of the better-performing versions. No, I'm not saying you have to get all Buschur/Forge products, but TXS is at the bottom of the list.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
All the TXS MBCs have the same problem, and you won't know until you log the boost via MAP sensor. Many people put things on their Evo and claim things are "working fine," but they really don't know. It's not until they dyno or hit the track or get datalogged by whomever custom tunes them that they realize that "fine" wasn't so "good." I guess heat wrapping it is fine, but you'd be better of porting and coating it.
What do you mean by "there's not many other choices that are bypass valves." Most of the aftermarket choices are "bypass" valves. That's just another name for diverter valve. The JDM MR DV and Forge RS are the top choices, and there are plenty of others. The good thing is that it's recirculating, but I'm not sure what prompted you to get TXS products instead of the better-performing versions. No, I'm not saying you have to get all Buschur/Forge products, but TXS is at the bottom of the list.
What do you mean by "there's not many other choices that are bypass valves." Most of the aftermarket choices are "bypass" valves. That's just another name for diverter valve. The JDM MR DV and Forge RS are the top choices, and there are plenty of others. The good thing is that it's recirculating, but I'm not sure what prompted you to get TXS products instead of the better-performing versions. No, I'm not saying you have to get all Buschur/Forge products, but TXS is at the bottom of the list.
Here is the link to their dyno video. Ride's Evo on Dyno.
That was all done by the people who installed my parts and they used the same stuff, aside of the intake, they used HKS RS.
I'd also like to add that the owner of the shop who owns that car is Todd Flis. He's a 5 time champion in several racing events. He raced in the Rolex 24, NHRA, you name it. He's pro.


