how to black out the lights??
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I recently blacked out my headlights and I am really really happy with the results. Probably 6-12 hours of work depending on how skilled you are, how often you mess up and how much you care about getting it to look perfect.
I followed this write up: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=185913
but there were allot of things that I still had to figure out or change as I went along. I used the exact paints he specified and it worked perfectly. Remove the front bumper. It took me a while to find the last 2 bolts that hold the front on, in the corners of the intercooler mesh area, in the upper right and left corners.
baking is pretty easy, just make sure you have a wet towel underneath the headlamp so nothing burns. The hardest part of the entire project is separating the casing once its out of the oven. The stuff they seal it with from the factory is there to stay, forget about cleaning it all off. Use flat blade screw drivers or thick butter knives to just break the seal, DONT pry up on the casing, it breaks/cracks easily, just apply a little pressure upwards to keep the parts youve gone over from re-sealing. The stuff sticks to everything when hot, so try not to get it on things. Brake clean will clean off light amounts of it, but you need Goop-off in large amounts to really clean the prying tools afterwards. Try and get them apart fast, as it will cool down quickly and become a total PITA to separate at all after about 7-8 minutes.
If you have a car like mine (no fog lights, no factory HID's) then when sanding and painting you will have that little 'imitation' projector sphere in there. Mask him off with blue painters tape very well and try and keep alcohol or anything else off of it, also be very careful when sanding anywhere near it. I also masked off both reflector areas, the area underneath the turn signal amber and the chrome 'eye liner' area. I think it looks waaay better with that still chrome to contrast it. Heres some pics of how it turned out.


You will most likely need to put a new layer of tape on after sanding before painting. The other thing I did totally different was I re-used the factory sealant + some extra silicone seal. Just re-bake the headlight glass and back housing for a few minutes (5-8) and quickly put the painted reflector back in, put a light bead of silicone on, and press them back together. The hot factory sealant will re-seal better than just silicone ever could. (and it was way easier) Re-install was a breeze for me. I didn't have to readjust anything as I re-installed the headlights without messing with the adjusting stuff on the back (other than removing the rubber parts for baking) You can check your headlight level though by parking on level ground 15-20 ft from a wall and checking to make sure they don't go too high (above waist level is too high) or point up at all.
This mod should be required on all white evo 8's, it looks amazing. Hope this helps!
I followed this write up: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=185913
but there were allot of things that I still had to figure out or change as I went along. I used the exact paints he specified and it worked perfectly. Remove the front bumper. It took me a while to find the last 2 bolts that hold the front on, in the corners of the intercooler mesh area, in the upper right and left corners.
baking is pretty easy, just make sure you have a wet towel underneath the headlamp so nothing burns. The hardest part of the entire project is separating the casing once its out of the oven. The stuff they seal it with from the factory is there to stay, forget about cleaning it all off. Use flat blade screw drivers or thick butter knives to just break the seal, DONT pry up on the casing, it breaks/cracks easily, just apply a little pressure upwards to keep the parts youve gone over from re-sealing. The stuff sticks to everything when hot, so try not to get it on things. Brake clean will clean off light amounts of it, but you need Goop-off in large amounts to really clean the prying tools afterwards. Try and get them apart fast, as it will cool down quickly and become a total PITA to separate at all after about 7-8 minutes.
If you have a car like mine (no fog lights, no factory HID's) then when sanding and painting you will have that little 'imitation' projector sphere in there. Mask him off with blue painters tape very well and try and keep alcohol or anything else off of it, also be very careful when sanding anywhere near it. I also masked off both reflector areas, the area underneath the turn signal amber and the chrome 'eye liner' area. I think it looks waaay better with that still chrome to contrast it. Heres some pics of how it turned out.


You will most likely need to put a new layer of tape on after sanding before painting. The other thing I did totally different was I re-used the factory sealant + some extra silicone seal. Just re-bake the headlight glass and back housing for a few minutes (5-8) and quickly put the painted reflector back in, put a light bead of silicone on, and press them back together. The hot factory sealant will re-seal better than just silicone ever could. (and it was way easier) Re-install was a breeze for me. I didn't have to readjust anything as I re-installed the headlights without messing with the adjusting stuff on the back (other than removing the rubber parts for baking) You can check your headlight level though by parking on level ground 15-20 ft from a wall and checking to make sure they don't go too high (above waist level is too high) or point up at all.
This mod should be required on all white evo 8's, it looks amazing. Hope this helps!


