Over Waxing
I used to use meguires, then realized it was just high dollar autostore junk... Then I used mothers, and I think I just payed for the name... I am now fully in love with this stuff right here... I use a good cleaner wax, clay bar, then the insulator wax no. 845... The wax itself will not shine the car, but it does a damn good job of being a wax.... I won't lie, it lasts 3 times longer than the others I used, and it always looks good... But it will not cover up a poor cleaning job or poor paint finish... That takes time, cleaners, and clay bars... Try it, I promise you will like it....
http://www.colliniteautomotive.com/p....htm#liquid845
And you gotta like a product that gives you a material safety data sheet !!!
http://www.colliniteautomotive.com/p....htm#liquid845
And you gotta like a product that gives you a material safety data sheet !!!
Last edited by Punkskalar; Nov 12, 2007 at 10:10 PM.
If you notice color in your waxing cloth, it's probably because you have single stage paint. It's not necessarily a problem with the wax. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the 03 Rally Red evo's were single stage.
It really shouldn't be coming off when you wax. There is not enough of an abrasive quality to wax to scratch paint/ remove paint. I'd say your applying it too rough. But just in case here's a run-down:
1-wash the car with any kind of automotive soap, making sure to COMPLETELY dry the car when finished. (i usually take a spin around the block to get all the H2O out of the cracks).
2-If there are any bugs, or bird crap still left on the car use a clay bar (with a spray bottle) to remove. Spray the water (or liquid shine) on the area and wipe with the bar...simple.
3-Begin polishing. This is the money step. Work your way from a more abrasive polish to a fine abrasive. (when I use the term 'abrasive' I don't mean sand paper, the abrasive in polish is so fine you can't feel it between your fingers). meguiar's has a scale from 1-10 on the side of their bottles. you will be able to see the changes in the paint, and you should only go as far as you need, but usually you will need: two times over the entire car with a 10/ 2-3 times with the 6/ and an additional 3-4 times with the 3. that's at least 7 times over the entire car with the various polishes. (only use terrycloth to remove the polish. you risk scratching with other rags) also, the force you use in application of the polish doesn't need to be herculean; let the polish do its work. AND when removing it light swirls with the rag.
4-Wax. Carnuba wax works best. all the wax does is protect all the work you just did (so make it count, this only needs to be done about once a year.). Light swirls in application, light swirls in removal.
5-Watch others jaw drop.
1-wash the car with any kind of automotive soap, making sure to COMPLETELY dry the car when finished. (i usually take a spin around the block to get all the H2O out of the cracks).
2-If there are any bugs, or bird crap still left on the car use a clay bar (with a spray bottle) to remove. Spray the water (or liquid shine) on the area and wipe with the bar...simple.
3-Begin polishing. This is the money step. Work your way from a more abrasive polish to a fine abrasive. (when I use the term 'abrasive' I don't mean sand paper, the abrasive in polish is so fine you can't feel it between your fingers). meguiar's has a scale from 1-10 on the side of their bottles. you will be able to see the changes in the paint, and you should only go as far as you need, but usually you will need: two times over the entire car with a 10/ 2-3 times with the 6/ and an additional 3-4 times with the 3. that's at least 7 times over the entire car with the various polishes. (only use terrycloth to remove the polish. you risk scratching with other rags) also, the force you use in application of the polish doesn't need to be herculean; let the polish do its work. AND when removing it light swirls with the rag.
4-Wax. Carnuba wax works best. all the wax does is protect all the work you just did (so make it count, this only needs to be done about once a year.). Light swirls in application, light swirls in removal.
5-Watch others jaw drop.
im an amateur detailer but a good detailer for an amateur. i'll give my 2 cents....
1.if you have color coming off as you buff your wax, theres a few reasons. you are using a wax that has a mild cleaner, throw it in the trash if its for your 'trophy' car. its better to polish with a minor cut THEN wax. also your car doesnt have a clearcoat or its mixed in with paint (like red evos)
2.standard carneuba or synthetic polish will NOT remove wax, there is no abrasive in there.
so dont be overwaxing, a quarter sized 'glob' will go a long way (can do half your hood easily). if you want to layer i recommend going carneuba first to give the deep shine, let it cure for half a day(assuming its warm), then layer a synthetic polish to seal it in for durability. throwing big globs of wax wont really do anything but waste wax.
1.if you have color coming off as you buff your wax, theres a few reasons. you are using a wax that has a mild cleaner, throw it in the trash if its for your 'trophy' car. its better to polish with a minor cut THEN wax. also your car doesnt have a clearcoat or its mixed in with paint (like red evos)
2.standard carneuba or synthetic polish will NOT remove wax, there is no abrasive in there.
so dont be overwaxing, a quarter sized 'glob' will go a long way (can do half your hood easily). if you want to layer i recommend going carneuba first to give the deep shine, let it cure for half a day(assuming its warm), then layer a synthetic polish to seal it in for durability. throwing big globs of wax wont really do anything but waste wax.
2.standard carneuba or synthetic polish will NOT remove wax, there is no abrasive in there.
so dont be overwaxing, a quarter sized 'glob' will go a long way (can do half your hood easily). if you want to layer i recommend going carneuba first to give the deep shine, let it cure for half a day(assuming its warm), then layer a synthetic polish to seal it in for durability. throwing big globs of wax wont really do anything but waste wax.
so dont be overwaxing, a quarter sized 'glob' will go a long way (can do half your hood easily). if you want to layer i recommend going carneuba first to give the deep shine, let it cure for half a day(assuming its warm), then layer a synthetic polish to seal it in for durability. throwing big globs of wax wont really do anything but waste wax.
Secondly, you have the steps in the wrong order. Polish or synthetic FIRST, then a paste canuba. You can't seal carnuba underneath a synthetic polymer, that polymer binds to paint. The synthetic is only going to last as long as the wax no? I mean once the wax starts to give, the synthetic, which is on top in your case, will come off too...mmmmm?
As far as letting the wax cure, it doesn't need more than 15 mins in all honesty. Half a day of sitting there wil only let the wax harden like there is no tomorrow, and on top of that you'll have dust and particles settle on the paint that you only end up spreading around everywhere when you wipe off, marring the finish.
Amatuer indeed
.
Just make sure u do it correctly and u dnt have to wax it every week do it like twice a month if even. Bc I think if u start to do it to much and start to buff it could possible screw up ur clear coat. Not 100 percent sure tho.
Wax bonds OVER paint, it has no abrasive properties. All you do is add protection with every layer you put on. If you wipe away with steel wool, then yes, you'll screw up your clear coat.



