Wheres the OP

R/TErnie & dsmnine: Great looking, baller type, set-ups with the unknown CCW offsets (They're secret, dont ask)

BTW, dsmine, Been in that parking lot Bro & spent a few bucks there,

 

Pretty certain the offset and back spacing Dan recommends is different between front and rear.

Or you could get the CCW's with the special sauce like R/T. LOL

Car looks nice.

 

I did my own math on the offset...and I actually bought a set of s2000 wheels used... and have to buy Evo center caps (how ccw does hubcentricity)

I run +38 Front and Rear with a 22mm spacer up front. To run that high of a numerical offset you need to run my trailing links that I make, run a 6" spring up front, among other things.

I think that 18x11's are totally possible, but require a bunch of work on top of what I've done.

 

can you PM me on all the details to duplicate your set up? i find myself coming back to this thread and just gazing at your car now haha. nice wide rim, fat tire, NO pulled fenders, possibly rolled? doesnt look like it though ??

 

To pull off aggressive CCW's you need more than just pulled & rolled fenders. Did you get your PM?

Funny that the OP never chimed in after posting

 

nope. looking at r/t's picture he posted, it definitely doesnt look like he did a whole lot to the body to fit. i know the one big thing is the trailing links that he makes... hopefully he get shed some light on this. im VERY interested haha

 

18x10.5 +38 wheels.

If you get LM20's you'll have better caliper clearance and you can probably run a 20mm spacer... or maybe even LESS! I know what fits for the classics, but I know the LM's would fit better up front.

You're going to need camber caster plates (I'd recommend camber/caster plates, although caster adjustment is not required...but nice)
- Adjust your hub to coilover to give you maximum POSITIVE camber (this moves the wheel away from the shock body.
- Adjust your camber plate to give you near maximum negative camber (shoot for negative 3 degrees)

You're going to absolutely need coilovers. Furthermore you're going to need to put a 6" or shorter spring on the front shocks. I ended up using Hyperco for my springs that were over 600# and swift for my easy going street spring rate of 550#. You need to adjust the spring perch so that the spring sits as the highest point possible (clears the tire underneath)

On my front fenders I did NOT use the Evo Dave fender mod. I rolled mine with a heat gun, IR gun, and an Eastwood roller. Kept it at 200 degrees and took my sweet time. If you use the Evo Dave front fender mod... AND roll... you can probably tuck the wheel with less camber. ALSO if you use the LM20 instead of the classic... I also expect that the wheel will be further inboard and more easily tucked.

The Rears
- Mild roll. Do no buckle your quarters. I shaved the 10mm bolt that attaches the rear bumper to the quarter. I have yet to relocate it further back. I also made a cut where the quarter meets the edge of the rear bumper. I tried to keep the 110 degree folded steel from keeping the quarter from being rolled. Not necessary... but you may find that you need to use a grinder to make this section more flush.

(I removed the extra exhaust hanger bracket with a cut off wheel) not necessary... but easily done. You can use you 8" long springs in the rear with the wheels. You need to run my offset trailing links. Available through Robi-Spec. No spacer required in the rear. Bolt the trailing links on and set camber @ -2 degrees.

If I were going to suggest a possibly BETTER fitment than what I've achieved... it would be a CCW LM20 18x10.5 +44

that might require a 6" spring in the rear and require you to shave the existing exhaust hanger. I would think it would also allow your front wheels to go further inboard and require less fender work.

This^ makes me think you could run an 18x11 +44 LM20 on the Evo F&R with OEM body...with a pretty aggressive roll and pull.