Clean headlight lenses
Sure. I didn't actually plan on making a how-to on it because I originally didn't plan on taking the cleaning process so far. I just decided in the middle that if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it the right way.
I saved the other headlight just in case people wanted me to do a how to. Since there seems to be some interest in a how-to, I will make one in the next few days explaining everything I used and what I did. Since I also have some down time, I'm willing to do some people's headlights for them if anyone wants (not for free because materials aren't cheap and to do it properly takes a good amount of time).
I saved the other headlight just in case people wanted me to do a how to. Since there seems to be some interest in a how-to, I will make one in the next few days explaining everything I used and what I did. Since I also have some down time, I'm willing to do some people's headlights for them if anyone wants (not for free because materials aren't cheap and to do it properly takes a good amount of time).
Post a write up in the How-To's 
I've been thinking about doing it to mine, how many sanding steps did you take? I'm assuming you worked your way up from one grit to another. Also, what grit did you use to wet sand?
I've been thinking about doing it to mine, how many sanding steps did you take? I'm assuming you worked your way up from one grit to another. Also, what grit did you use to wet sand?
-tape off the edges where paint is next to the headlight (so you don't sand your paint off on accident)
-mix 3-4 drops of dish soap in a spray bottle
-start with a 1200-1500 grit wet sand, spraying both the paper and lens regularly
-wrap up with 2000 grit wetsand
-buff with Maguire's Ultra Compound or Heavy Cut Compound. A polisher/drill and a wool pad will make it easier but is not necessary. You can use an applicator.
-apply wax over finished product with a microfiber towel
all done!
PRO TIPS:
-the point of water in wet sanding is not so much a friction thing, but its to float away the very fine particles generated when sanding plastic or paint so you can use the paper longer. The dish soap acts as a lubricant to make the paper slide better across the surface.
-you remove sandpaper marks by using the next higher grit. 1200 will remove 1000, 2000 will remove 1500, and so on. Then, you use the compound to remove the 2000 grit marks, aka, swirls
-wax has no ability to remove any scuffing, it just looks good.
Last edited by ikt; Aug 14, 2012 at 04:00 PM.
It's really easy man.
-tape off the edges where paint is next to the headlight (so you don't sand your paint off on accident)
-mix 3-4 drops of dish soap in a spray bottle
-start with a 1200-1500 grit wet sand, spraying both the paper and lens regularly
-wrap up with 2000 grit wetsand
-buff with Maguire's Ultra Compound or Heavy Cut Compound. A polisher/drill and a wool pad will make it easier but is not necessary. You can use an applicator.
-apply wax over finished product with a microfiber towel
all done!
PRO TIPS:
-the point of water in wet sanding is not so much a friction thing, but its to float away the very fine particles generated when sanding plastic or paint so you can use the paper longer. The dish soap acts as a lubricant to make the paper slide better across the surface.
-you remove sandpaper marks by using the next higher grit. 1200 will remove 1000, 2000 will remove 1500, and so on. Then, you use the compound to remove the 2000 grit marks, aka, swirls
-wax has no ability to remove any scuffing, it just looks good.
-tape off the edges where paint is next to the headlight (so you don't sand your paint off on accident)
-mix 3-4 drops of dish soap in a spray bottle
-start with a 1200-1500 grit wet sand, spraying both the paper and lens regularly
-wrap up with 2000 grit wetsand
-buff with Maguire's Ultra Compound or Heavy Cut Compound. A polisher/drill and a wool pad will make it easier but is not necessary. You can use an applicator.
-apply wax over finished product with a microfiber towel
all done!
PRO TIPS:
-the point of water in wet sanding is not so much a friction thing, but its to float away the very fine particles generated when sanding plastic or paint so you can use the paper longer. The dish soap acts as a lubricant to make the paper slide better across the surface.
-you remove sandpaper marks by using the next higher grit. 1200 will remove 1000, 2000 will remove 1500, and so on. Then, you use the compound to remove the 2000 grit marks, aka, swirls
-wax has no ability to remove any scuffing, it just looks good.
I sand up to 2500 (I would use 3000, but none was available for purchase when I picked it up) then I hit it with a cutting compound. The higher the level of grit, the less strength you need as far as a cutting compound is concerned. I used ScratchX on the above headlight, although I have many different compounds available at my disposal. It worked just fine. Had it not, I would have switched to something else. I don't suggest using PlastX for less experienced users as it can dry fast and can be a pain in the *** to remove it all especially if you get it into any type of cracks or crevices.
You can do all of this while the headlight is on the car, but I prefer to take mine out as it allows me access to the edges that are harder to get at while it is on the car.
If you wax your car regularly, then a coat of wax works awesome. If you do not, I suggest another type of headlight lens seal. Like stated above, wax is not an abrasive and does little (only certain types with fillers apply) to help with swirls.
Take your time and be thorough is another main suggestion. The same principle applies to painting a car that it's all in the prep work. Headlight restoration is pretty much all prep work. If you miss a spot at an early stage, then it will show very clearly at a later stage.
This is more or less what I did. I can't emphasize enough to cross-hatch as you move up on sanding levels. Sand one way for 1200, then sand another way for 1500. This will help show you which areas still need to be sanded if you can still see the sand marks from the previous grit paper.
I sand up to 2500 (I would use 3000, but none was available for purchase when I picked it up) then I hit it with a cutting compound. The higher the level of grit, the less strength you need as far as a cutting compound is concerned. I used ScratchX on the above headlight, although I have many different compounds available at my disposal. It worked just fine. Had it not, I would have switched to something else. I don't suggest using PlastX for less experienced users as it can dry fast and can be a pain in the *** to remove it all especially if you get it into any type of cracks or crevices.
You can do all of this while the headlight is on the car, but I prefer to take mine out as it allows me access to the edges that are harder to get at while it is on the car.
If you wax your car regularly, then a coat of wax works awesome. If you do not, I suggest another type of headlight lens seal. Like stated above, wax is not an abrasive and does little (only certain types with fillers apply) to help with swirls.
Take your time and be thorough is another main suggestion. The same principle applies to painting a car that it's all in the prep work. Headlight restoration is pretty much all prep work. If you miss a spot at an early stage, then it will show very clearly at a later stage.
I sand up to 2500 (I would use 3000, but none was available for purchase when I picked it up) then I hit it with a cutting compound. The higher the level of grit, the less strength you need as far as a cutting compound is concerned. I used ScratchX on the above headlight, although I have many different compounds available at my disposal. It worked just fine. Had it not, I would have switched to something else. I don't suggest using PlastX for less experienced users as it can dry fast and can be a pain in the *** to remove it all especially if you get it into any type of cracks or crevices.
You can do all of this while the headlight is on the car, but I prefer to take mine out as it allows me access to the edges that are harder to get at while it is on the car.
If you wax your car regularly, then a coat of wax works awesome. If you do not, I suggest another type of headlight lens seal. Like stated above, wax is not an abrasive and does little (only certain types with fillers apply) to help with swirls.
Take your time and be thorough is another main suggestion. The same principle applies to painting a car that it's all in the prep work. Headlight restoration is pretty much all prep work. If you miss a spot at an early stage, then it will show very clearly at a later stage.
I haven't gotten my headlights back from the retrofit yet. I will hopefully be getting them tomorrow. At that point I'll get a how to put together. It's basically the steps outlined above.
my headlight on my drivers side leaks so i was going to take apart my lights and paint the insides the inside of the leaking one is fogged and looks horrible. can i do this and sand the inside and everything to get the same outcome?
