GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Just went and got the car realign. Results are below. They told me that it was the best the can do on the front chamber and that the stock chamber can only be adjusted two ways. Is this BS? I don't know how the chamber got that screw up. Is it okay to have -1.9 camber and would it be okay to have such a difference between the two fronts? Do I need adjustable cambers? Looks like the right caster is also out of spec. Any solutions?

This car sucks!!! Never had so much maintenance and problems with such a low mileage car before.

Before:
left front Right front
.3 camber -1.7 camber
3.3 caster 3.8 caster
0 toe -.03 toe

left rear Right rear
-.3 camber -1.6 camber
.22 toe .15 toe

After:
left front Right front
-.7 camber -1.9 camber
3.3 caster 3.8 caster
-.03 toe .03 toe

left rear Right rear
-1.1 camber -1.2 camber
.10 toe .08 toe

rburris28

I believe when they say it can only be adjust two ways, they mean that the caster is not adjustable.

It looks like they have the camber adjustment bolt on one side at the 0 to -1 degree position and the other at the -1 to -2 degree position. There is a thread here that has pictures of this; I printed it out and took it to my alignment shop. They had no problems after they were given this information.

Search for alignment in the Motor Sports section and I believe you'll find it.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. They claim that they switched the chamber bolt. They claim the other way yield over 2 of camber. How could the chamber be so out of whack?? This is odd. Either they were lying or smething major happen to my car which I was unaware of.

Deetz

iTrader: (1)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/motor-sports/131032-factory-vs-de-alignment-specs.html

VTECH8TR

iTrader: (70)

Your alignment shop or tech doesn't know what the **** he's doing, go somewhere else.

mayhem

iTrader: (9)

They obviously did not flip the camber bolt. The only reason the camber changed at all was probably due to the toe adjustment. Take it back, show them the pictures linked and have them fix it.

Scottybob

iTrader: (3)

I'd want my money back from that alignment

check the camber bolts yourself. look at the pics from the thread.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I'll take a look at it tomorrow. Hope I can see the bolt without removing the tire. I hope the arrow is pointing inside. Giving firestone the benefit of the doubt how the heck could the camber be at -1.9 when it's set to direction of -1?? Does this mean my suspention is fawk up?

The car is not drop with stock wheel and all season tires.

Scottybob

iTrader: (3)

I cant remember ever trying to look at the camber bolts with the car on the ground. I imagine that you will at least have to turn the steering all the way, or maybe jack the car up a little.

Remember they should both be pointed to either the inside or outside of the car. For some reason I've seen shops want to point the bolts either left or right. If the bolts are set correctly it could be any number of things, including a F'ed up alignment machine.

My experience with my EVO is that the car is so sensative to adjustments that for alignments I would recommend one of the following:

- Learn to do it yourself.
- Know enough about alignment to be able to stand over your typical grease monkey and tell him what to do.
- I realize 1 and 2 are not practical for a lot of people, so seek out an alignment shop that caters to high performance cars. You can find one in most major metro areas.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I'll check it after work. I took a quick look at it this morning and did not see an arrow but saw the bolt with a 10 on it. The 10 was facing inside on the front left wheel but facing outside on the front right wheel. Are there any particular settings for street , daily driven or basically as long as the settings are within spec (green) it should be good?

Scottybob

iTrader: (3)

You could do a search for differnet opinons. I suggest:

for aggressive driving. max negative camber in front. 0 toe all around -1deg. camber in rear.

for max tire life and stability. "the other" camber setting 0 front toe and about .1 total rear toe for stability.

nuclearevo

I agree with VTECH8TR the shop looks like they don't know what their doing.
The most camber you will get with stock is -2 deg, but this is aggressive for daily driving it will wear tires quickly.
I recomend you check a real racing shop ( shop around) and ask if they do the alingment or if they know anybody that has a good reputation.
Also check when you get to the alignment shop what cars are they working or had worked. If you see a BMW or 350Z, ect. It might be a good place.
Are you a daily driver or do you occasionally road race or drag?
For daily driver (-.75 to -1) might be a good setup.
For road racing use -2 or more. I don't know for drag. Gluck!

P.S. Don't mess with toe angle, try to get it to stock. If this is done wrong it can have a big effect on cornering, understeer or oversteer.

Do you have aftermarket suspension or stock.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys. I went to firestone and got the lifetime alignment so I'm going to go back and tell those idiots to fix it. It looks like their equipment is wrong or those guys do not know their left from right. I remove the wheel and took a look at the bolt. ON the right side the arrow was pointing inside which I believe this should be the -1. On the left side (driver's side) the arrow was pointing outside, -2. SO what's right, I thought arrow pointing inside was for -1.

The car is basically dailly driven with occasional track. I like a daily driven setting. So the current -1.1 and -1.2 in the rear should be okay?



left




right

Scottybob

iTrader: (3)

Max negative camber is going to be about 1.8. Personally I dont think this is too bad for street driving. I never had any tire wear issues, but my car is not a daily driver. Especially since you are going to track the car I would recommend that you try the 1.8. With 1.0 deg or less you are going to tear up the OUTSIDE of the tires more in 2 track days than lots of camber would wear the INSIDE of the tire in thousands of miles of street driving. Go with zero toe all the way around to minimize tire wear.

If you do go with the -1 camber setting my guess would be that you would only want about -.5 deg in the rear or you are going to have an understeering pig on the track.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the suggestions again. I'm going to see if they can set the front camber to -1.5 and the rear to .5 or leave it at -1.1 with 0 toe all around.

Isn't bad to have camber on the front left different from the front right?? I still don't understand how they were reading -1.9.

After:
left front Right front
-.7 camber -1.9 camber
3.3 caster 3.8 caster
-.03 toe .03 toe