Ever Seen Uneven Rotor Wear like this?
Feb 26, 2009, 02:54 PM
#1
Ever Seen Uneven Rotor Wear like this?
I'm hoping to find time to pull the rear pads and inspect this weekend, but has anyone ever seen uneven rotor wear like this?
(click image for bigger view)
.jpg)
.jpg)
It is really strange that it is a divot in the middle of the pad area. I've always seen inside or outside of the rotor, sometimes an uneven wobble. This is a consistent line all the way around the whole rotor, and only on the rear driver's side.
Also, I know the manual says not to turn/cut the factory rotors but I've read about people doing it before. Can anyone provide a compelling argument not to? ...do you think this divot is too deep to turn out?
Thanks!
(click image for bigger view)
It is really strange that it is a divot in the middle of the pad area. I've always seen inside or outside of the rotor, sometimes an uneven wobble. This is a consistent line all the way around the whole rotor, and only on the rear driver's side.
Also, I know the manual says not to turn/cut the factory rotors but I've read about people doing it before. Can anyone provide a compelling argument not to? ...do you think this divot is too deep to turn out?
Thanks!
Last edited by fostytou; Feb 26, 2009 at 02:56 PM.
Feb 26, 2009, 02:59 PM
#3
My OE rotors did this when I first had my car. The issue was a failed pad. In fact, my OE pad had a cracked in the middle. The result was a rotor that looked exactly like this. The dealer turned the rotor and gave me new front pads - issue fixed.
Last edited by Smike; Feb 26, 2009 at 03:07 PM.
Feb 26, 2009, 03:00 PM
#4
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I have turned my rotors before. You cant tell by the picks but they do have a minimum thickness, and yours seem deep. Funny thing was I took the rotors in to the shop, and the guy ask's "What the hell kind of truck are these off of?"
I wouldnt be afraid to turn them, but people generally dont do it much anymore.
I wouldnt be afraid to turn them, but people generally dont do it much anymore.
Feb 26, 2009, 03:05 PM
#5
Yeah, it's perfectly safe to turn the factory rotors as long as they're no thinner than allowable spec. The rotor wear is from improper bedding of the pads. (Yes, on new cars you still need to bed brakes.) Read up on Stoptech's forums about crystalline deposits that form on steel.
Feb 26, 2009, 04:08 PM
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^^^ +1 rocks can cause that - but its usually the reverse isn't it? I had a rock get stuck in my bike's brake caliper and it etched a circular groove in the disk.
On another note, my friend and I went to replace his brake pads the other day and I took one look at the rotor and saw maybe 5 to 10 of these raised ridges... took the caliper apart and took a look at the pads, etc, and still have no idea what it was that caused it... We're still trying to find out.
On another note, my friend and I went to replace his brake pads the other day and I took one look at the rotor and saw maybe 5 to 10 of these raised ridges... took the caliper apart and took a look at the pads, etc, and still have no idea what it was that caused it... We're still trying to find out.
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Feb 26, 2009, 04:31 PM
#8
Yeah, it's perfectly safe to turn the factory rotors as long as they're no thinner than allowable spec. The rotor wear is from improper bedding of the pads. (Yes, on new cars you still need to bed brakes.) Read up on Stoptech's forums about crystalline deposits that form on steel.
Thats what I was thinking...
Any chance the dealer will warranty the rotor with ~36,000 miles?
Also, is it wise to turn both rear rotors at the same time or totally unnecessary?
Feb 26, 2009, 05:37 PM
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i would imagine the pad is bad(cracked) like someone said. Since the center is not wearing.... and it's ok to turn one rotor only...as long as its not to thin allready
Mar 10, 2009, 04:07 PM
#10
Unfortunately I forgot the good camera. Full/more (phone quality) pics are here:
http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/rand...7_badrearpads/
It looks like there was a defect in the casting for the rotor. There was a small piece right on the rust line that was shiny and higher than the rest, probably a harder metal than the rest...
.jpg)
It looks like this may have blown out the pad a bit on the trailing edge (imagine it knocking off a small chunk each time the rotor went around, kind of like a bullet exit or a drill bit exit on the back of a piece of wood)... but the trailing side of the inner pad was similar on the driver's side.
.jpg)
On the passenger side both pads were fully intact (second set of pictures in folder), but stuck in the caliper. The leading edge was more worn on these, but the trailing edge cracked off a big chunk before they would come out. I'm wondering if some material had moved toward the trailing side when they were overheated and then hardened again forming a trapezoid like shape.
My new pads have a shim with "fingers" that grab around the edge of the pad on them already. It seemed like the stockers had 2 shims, but one was just flat and the other (with the arrows) had the "fingers". Should I be using both shims?
I dropped in some Satisfied GS6 on the rear rotors after essentially chunking off that deposit with a flathead screw driver and sanding the faces with 120 grit. So far they feel great, we'll see if they can hold up to track abuse.
http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/rand...7_badrearpads/
It looks like there was a defect in the casting for the rotor. There was a small piece right on the rust line that was shiny and higher than the rest, probably a harder metal than the rest...
It looks like this may have blown out the pad a bit on the trailing edge (imagine it knocking off a small chunk each time the rotor went around, kind of like a bullet exit or a drill bit exit on the back of a piece of wood)... but the trailing side of the inner pad was similar on the driver's side.
On the passenger side both pads were fully intact (second set of pictures in folder), but stuck in the caliper. The leading edge was more worn on these, but the trailing edge cracked off a big chunk before they would come out. I'm wondering if some material had moved toward the trailing side when they were overheated and then hardened again forming a trapezoid like shape.
My new pads have a shim with "fingers" that grab around the edge of the pad on them already. It seemed like the stockers had 2 shims, but one was just flat and the other (with the arrows) had the "fingers". Should I be using both shims?
I dropped in some Satisfied GS6 on the rear rotors after essentially chunking off that deposit with a flathead screw driver and sanding the faces with 120 grit. So far they feel great, we'll see if they can hold up to track abuse.
