Dave-Cee

Does anybody know the reason why RAYS recommend +28 front and +34 rear?

As far as I can work out it's maybe brake clearance for the standard Brembo's at the front? Or is it to do with the stock strut being close on the spring platform to the inside of the wheel?

I have a BBK and have bolted it to a spare hub and test fitted an 18x9.5 +34 and there was loads of clearance. I also have Ohlins DFV coil overs fitted too.

Cheers

L888Apex

iTrader: (94)

Both set ups have fit fine w/o issue from what i've seen. The +34 just doesn't require a fender rolling with a larger tire, but the +28 will. +28 in the front fits perfect too without any rolling. I would just run a +28 all around though

Dave-Cee

Thanks.

I think I will stick with a +34 all round and run 255/35 rubber. That's a proven set up which needs no rolling.

I'm pretty sure the +28 for the fronts is to do with the stock fat Brembo.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

The +34 will rub the inside rear control arm - if you've got BIG rubber.
The +28 will rub the outside rear fenders - if you've got medium/BIG rubber.

Both clear the brembos up front. The +28 might rub with BIG rubber if you're really low and hit a bit compression (ie curbing on the track under G load).
Both CAN rub the inside of certain front suspensions if you want to run a LOT of negative camber.

Trust me.....

Hennessy2remedy

iTrader: (5)

the +34 will clear the front brembo with a **** hair clearance, might want to think about 3-5mm spacers if it's something that will bother you.

if you're interested, i'll be selling my CE28n time attack 18x9.5 +34 in the very near future.

pshooter

iTrader: (8)

I run +34 CE28's with 285/30-18 hoosiers. The rears rub the lower control arm when the tire deflects. Clears the fenders with rolling.

The fronts with DFV's the rim itself bolts right on. I need a 15 mm spacer for the tire to clear the spring and collar. Even if I ran a shorter spring I think the tire might rub the coilover body.

255's shouldnt be a problem as they'll run narrower than the rim.

Dave-Cee

Thanks for the quick replies !

boom29.

My car is 1.9 neg camber on the front.

Hennessy2remedy.

Thanks for the offer but I have my eye on a set of the Genesis rims.

Dave-Cee

The tyre I want is the ADO8 Yoko.

In the 255/35 size the load rating is lower at 90w. The next size up 265/35 is the correct load rating at 93w.

Will a 265/35 tyre still sit within the rim width?

Thanks

wasFWDnowAWD

iTrader: (2)

I got a set of CE28s 18x9.5 +34 too. havent been mounted yet. curious if 265/35s will have any issues. planning on using dunlop direzza star specs too. heard they run a little wider. what size spacer to get the wheel and tire to sit flush?

Astro_Train

iTrader: (17)

to the OP... just one other thing to consider is that the face of CEs change depending on offset. +34 has a round concave face with the spoke being almost round at the center of the spoke. The +28s look a bit better as they are a bit more flat at the center of the spoke and they cave just a tad light bit at the lower section of the spoke as you work towards the center of the wheel.

The +22 or lower has the best face IMO and the spokes actually dive in towards the center of the wheel from the outside edge of the wheel. I've had +28s and +15s. The +15 and +22s have the same face, the only thing that changes is the pad height at the rear of the wheels where it meets the hub of the car.

Don't bother with +34. It is too high of an offset and too close to stock and with a 9.5 inch width, you run that chance of rubbing on the inside as you run a meatier tire. The +28 is best and does not require any fender rolling unless the car is dumped and/or running a tire wider than a 255. The +28 will give you more "room" to play with overall. I'll post up some pics of my +15s and some +22s. They look better than +28s but keep in mind that you'll most definitely have to roll your rear fender.

But you gotta pay to play if you want to look more aggressive... my 2 cents...

here are some pics to show the faces in regards to offsets... the GG was mine IX

18x9.5 +34



18x9.5 +28 (rear wheel only) fronts are 18x10.5 +18... notice the difference in the spoke. This is the best example to show the face of the wheel difference.



Here are my old 18x9.5 +15(face is the same as +22)





I ran +15s with no rubbing and a 255/35 but all 4 fenders rolled. +22 will be fine with a 265 with some fender rolling considering you don't dump the car... not sure what suspension you'll be running. Hope this helps.

Dave-Cee

Astro.

Thanks for the info. what size tyres are on your +28 rears?

Is there a bit more of a dish on the +28 compared to the +34 or is it just the spokes?

Also the tyres on the white IX have a stretched look which I'm not keen on.

If I ran +28 all round and a 265/35 tyre (bear in mind I have Ohlins DFV suspension) you saying I may need to trim my rears a little? I would rather cut than have them rolled.

Ta.

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

I found on mine that the best fitment front to rear on the 9.5" was staggered. I ran 25/35. This was perfect for no rubbing in the front except at FULL lock with 275s. The rears I did have modified by my body shop because I wanted zero rubbing with people in the car. The 35 (34 in your case) allows for clearance inside the wheel well and against the trailing arm. My 38 5Zigen would rub inside under hard cornering.

The outside edge will rub without doing something to the fender whether you have it rolled or cut. I got it to clear on one of my friends but we had dialed in -2.2* of camber to achieve that with my 275s. It can be done tastefully (modification) if the body shop is quality.

front



rear



full lock

justincase

iTrader: (6)

+22 was always what i planned to run on my street rims in a ce28n but the genesis only comes in a +28 i think so it's something i have to consider.

My track rims are a TE37SL in 18x9.5 +22.


I just gathered for 265/35 I would have to roll or perhap pump or widebody the entire car. Pumping or cutting and extending the guards using a skilled builder of hot rods was more what I was view doing if needed so to keep the front guards in metal for australian road regulations.

We'll see what happens

Astro_Train

iTrader: (17)

the tires on the +28 are 265/35/18... the wider 10.5 up front also have the same size tire because you have to run the same size tire all around for staggered set ups.

The lip is the same size if that is what you are asking... "dish" the spokes give it a sense of depth depending on what offset you go with.

As for the cutting fenders..., if you know someone that can do it then fine. Otherwise find yourself a person or shop good at fender rolling. Rolling them flat will be enough. It is when you start pulling them is when they can get all jacked up.


Genesis come in +22... now finding a set is another story. They were limited to a certain amount of sets produced.

[DCEIVR]

I run 18x9.5 +28 front and +34 rear with my CE28s. As mentioned, the only reason to do this is to be able run 255/35/18 rubber without the need to roll the rear fenders to avoid rubbing.

I also run DFV's and have my car sitting pretty low with -1.25 degree front camber and -1.75 degree rear camber

There is no difference in the amount of lip between the 2 different specs, you'll find the spokes on the +28 concave a bit more than the +34.

Here is my ride height:


Here is the clearance in the rear when it's loaded up (parked on an angle on a steep driveway in this pic):


This is how they sit in line with the guard: