Ok heres the deal. Im having a little problem with my brakes. When I first recieved my Evo the stock Brembos were badly grooved and the pads just sucked. I later upgraded to Rotora Slotted rotors and Project U pads. The car brakes nicely during light braking. But during hard braking the whole car starts to shake and makes a lound vibrating sound.

So I decided to flush the brake fluid. I didnt have the pump so I devided to gravity bleed them. I bled them in the right sequence but instead of bleeding the inside bleeder first I did the outside. Would this have anything to do with it? Does anyone with similar brakes having any problems,

 

did u change the front only or did you do all 4 only if you did brake lines is when you need to bleed your brakes you only take a rag stick in the master cylinder and let the rag take a lil fluid out once pads are in you give it a few pumps on the brakes then poor some more in fluid that is. now as far as bleeding goes there might have been some fluid still in the lines when your did what you did when you refill it you give it a few pumps and let the fluid run though and fill the tank to the line. now when you do a brake job you need to brake them in on the pad box they should give you a step by step on how to do this if it dont then you have to brake in as follow you need to put about 250 miles on the brakes before you really get to stomping on them for the first 30 stops you cant drag the brakes this does not mean slam on the brakes but you know what i mean. THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DONT LET THE BRAKES BRAKE IN there will be uneven ware this cause vibration to the steering wheel and the hole car shakes real bad and that could be your problem.


ive had the same problem that you have right now with my other 2 past cars i had uneven ware there is also a another reason why your car can do this your wheels maybe unbalanced that was the case in my last car 04 acura tl the dealer ship put new tires on my car for free and they never rebalanced the tire so that caused the tire vibration as well. that should help you out. if that ant the problem take it to a brake shop and have them inpect the brakes this should be a free service.

take care and good luck.

 

You want to properly bed in your pads when you replace the rotors and pads. If its not done, the pad transfer will not be even in turn cause a high speed vibration. Brake fluid has nothing to do with vibration...you might want to resurface the rotors and rebed the pads.

Tom

 

what do you mean by rebed the pads?

 

The vendor you purchased your pads from should be able to tell you the correct way to get them bedded in. The basic idea is to transfer an even layer of pad material from the pads to the rotor.

I usually do this by firmly braking from about 60 mph to 5 mph or so (without stopping) 5 or 6 times in quick succession. This heats everything up and transfers the needed material. The trick is to get the brakes hot while bedding them in, but not to completely beat on them. After that I park the car and let everything cool off for a couple of hours.

 

its better to drive and let them cool. you will warp and score your rotors if you completely stop and park your car with hot brakes.

 

Yeah - I guess I kind of glossed over that. The chunk of pavement I use is about 20 minutes from where I live. It gives me a chance to let the brakes cool to normal temps on the way home. After that I park the car until they have cooled completely.

I haven't had any problems with "warping" over the last two years (and 36K + lots of track days) that re-bedding the bads hasn't solved. I'm even still using my original rotors - although I will need to replace the fronts very soon.

 

I agree with everyone that said you may have uneven amounts of pad material on your rotors. I've had this happen more than once towards the end of my track days. Some recommend resurfacing the rotors and rebedding the brake pads, I've found that simply going through the rebedding proceedure fixes the problem. ie. you may not need to go through the trouble of resurfacing.

Check out this link: you may find it useful.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

 

rebedding or you didn't clean off your hubs when you put the new rotors on. this would cause the rotors to sit on the hubs unevenly if there is material on the hubs on one side and not on the other. Or you may need to resurface the rotors, it is possible that the rotors were dropped, sometimes this will cause the rotor to ever so slightly "bend" or warp, wich would explain why at slow braking it seems ok, but the faster that rotor turns, the more you feel it.