turned down old ones
the low dust ones
yes i beded them proprely
i dont autocross or nething,i dont need hi proformance pads

 

i dont know if i got the preferred pepboy bads in the rear. i guess i can check the box.

i live in dartmouth, ma. which is about an hour south of boston and deliver for papa gino's.

my username does actually mean a portuguese fish, it means codfish, sorry but im a true portugie!

im not sure i understand the bedding of the pads. i used good grease on the back of the pad during install, but the rears squeal so loud. its the most annoying thing in the world. im trying to figure out what it is.

but none the less, they work, and the autozone ones were excellent. the pepboy rears are still in big question!

 

What he means by bedding them in is you shouldn't go out right away and hammer the pads with a few hard stops. It is kind of like breaking in an engine but much shorter. You need to take it easy on the brakes for a 50-100 miles. Maybe some one out there who does brake engineeering can tell us. From the noise side some aftermarket pads don't have the treatments to reduce noise that the stock pads do. The reason you hear the noise is you are exciting the pad or rotor harmonics (most likely rotor) and that is causing the noise. With the right treatments on the back of the pad it would go away. Listen to race car brakes they are always loud, street car brakes don't make noise any more except rare occasions. This is something everyone should consider before they go to big brake kits is if the noise is worth it.

 

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this couple of times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. (Note: With some less aggressive street pads, you may need to do fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.

If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

 

Well I first want to thank you for also posting a link to my thread, as I am still recovering from sever burns after that severe flaming I got , but I knew it would come... I am just glad that the thread was able to at least help one person in DYING need of brakes and it helped to make your decision and that you were happy with that. Yup, I am going over 5000 miles on my set and no issues to report other than the minor sqealing that hear RARELY when I make 3-point turns. Yes these pads produce way less dust thant the stockers, no sqealing, cheaper, better for Daily Driving Conditions, and we never have to pay for pads again, as there is a lifetime warrently on them... So to those who said I was the Dumb one for buying cheap pads, or to sell my evo as I dont deserve it becauz I bought Autozone pads, maybe I am, but you are the one that spent way to much for pads that only stop you on the track.....I will let my actions speak for themsleves and the words of bacalhau16 finish it off.....

So again to all those who flamed me with full prejudice, soley based on where i got them from, I hope that you read this thread as well, and realize where the REAL EVO owner is at....

Take care guys and if you have any questions on this l, you can ask me too.... If you need the pics reposted on my orignal link, I will go ahead and fix them!

 

i just bought a set of autozone pads. Anyone who wants to say something bad about that can kiss me right on my ***.

 

you guys with the autozone pads do u do any real hard driving in the moutains and if you do can you if give us an impression on how well they work compared to the stock pads or any other pads?

 

you guys with the autozone pads do u do any real hard driving in the moutains and if you do can you if give us an impression on how well they work compared to the stock pads or any other pads?

 

i do some aggressive driving but not in the moutains, if that matters to u. i have never experienced fade with them either. im telling u, if u daily drive and get on it every now and then, that the front autozone pads are the way to go.

Now for the rear pep boy pads... I'm not so sure as of yet. I absolutely did not bed the rear pads. Perhaps this is why the squeal so much. I am glad that it rained today because if it is wet outside they do not squeal. They work very well, but man does it get annoying.
Is there something i should do for the rears. I mean i do have lifetime warranty on the rears also, should i just go get new ones, or can i bed the rears still.

 

dor

 

no i havent been to portugal, but just from being in europe u get to see way more kick a** cars. I heard all of the cabs in portugal are mercedes. There should be plenty of good stuff there, as long as u can get into some cities. I dont know much about portugal though, i know a lot about my evo though!

Boa noite!

 

Man, I'm really glad you found and tried those brake pads. The truth about the EVO brake pads is that they are way too expensive. I'm probably gonna get flamed too, but I know a thing or two about brake pads and such. I've been driving cars for nearly 50 years. Brakes and other parts or cars have improved tremendously over time and todays cars stop anf go much better than those old cars of the 40's, 50's, 60's, 70's and 80's. However, the brake pads available from auto parts stores are quite comparable with the OEM pads of the cars. Sure, if you want to race a car, you must buy special rece pads that resist fade and heat. Same goes for the tires. OTOH, if all you do is drive in the streets in a reasonable manner, you're not going to need racing pads performance or racing tire performance. In actuality, those racing pads or very high performance pads are totally unsuitable for everyday driving as they need to be heat cycled before they even grab... Also, they'll chew up your rotors in a heart beat and make noise and lots of brake dust. Same deal for racing tires. They need to be hot to adhere, they wear out in hours and will kill you in the rain....

I've been driving my EVOs on all weather Contis for 3 years during the winter. Those tires suck for dry traction, turn in, stopping abilty, etc. Yet they are perfectly safe and adequate and have done a great job. Sure, the Advans go back on in the warm weather, but that's not the point... I don't autox or track my car. Actually I have not even launched my MR very hard ever... I don't need the level of performance granted by expensive high performance brake pads. Half of the time I drive my wife's Maxima and I never felt unsafe. Same with my old Miata... I ride a lot in my buddy's '99 accord with 140K miles. I guarantee you that he does not have any kind of expensive brake pads or even high performance tires. His tires are rated to last 80K miles! Guess what, nobody has lost control or crashed in that car. The barkes have never faded of failed to work.

I think that as long as one uses his EVO as a daily driver, all the expensive brake pads, clutches and even high performance tires are basically for ego purposes and bragging rights . I don't see the need to spend hundreds of dollars when $80 will do the trick. IMHO, the same goes for all the trick, expensive suspension set ups. For my purposes and those of most people, they are total overkill and actually hurt the everyday driveability and performance of the car while leaving huge holes in your pockets.

My asbestos suit is on. Flame away

 

I've always wondered why some aftermarket pads don't offer a lifetime guarantee on their pads?! As long as your pep boys/ autozone receipt is legible you can change your pads all year round if you wanted to!

 

actually you dont even need the reciept...as long as you are in the system (aks your phone number) they will know you have the warrentty....So what you do...is buy another set....put them on the car, bring back the old pads in the box of the new set, and they refund your money.....and BAMO FREE pads...

Silver EVO, thanks so much for backing me.....it seems that I am getting the last laugh now, as many have wrote me asking me for the part number, and some have added positve comments to my thread and started new ones like this...and with you and you years of experience confirms that I was right...Thanks bro...

 

hey! i bought pads from autozone and installed them about 3 months ago... present day and the pads are eating at my rotors YAAAYY i love autozone