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Braking causes steering wheel to shake?

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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:42 PM
  #16  
WarmPepsi's Avatar
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stock pads arent really good for much of anything. they're noisy and fade easily. the pfs should fare better, but with stock rotors, you will overheat them.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:54 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
stock pads arent really good for much of anything. they're noisy and fade easily. the pfs should fare better, but with stock rotors, you will overheat them.
I know I could have gone with a more aggressive pad, but these sounded like a good compromise for my current street and weekend track setup. I'm not pushing a ton of power and I'm not hitting any really heavy braking courses yet, so hopefully they'll fare well.

Now when you say overheat the rotors... what are you referring to exactly? As in the pads are a significant upgrade over stock and surpass the ability of the stock rotors to divert heat? Like brake ducting will be a good idea?
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 03:59 AM
  #18  
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yes, the stock rotors are horrible for getting rid of heat. ducting is an option, but they still suck. I'd recommend better rotors over the cooling, and going to the cooling when you start overheating the 2 pc units (raises hand)
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 06:32 AM
  #19  
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Anyone ever notice the pad buildup/warping associated with leaving the E-brake on while the car is parked?
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 07:02 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by adamhw
Anyone ever notice the pad buildup/warping associated with leaving the E-brake on while the car is parked?
That can definitely happen.

It's a big no-no to set your E-brake after running on the track. Bring something to put under your tire and just leave everything in neutral.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #21  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by boomn29
That can definitely happen.

It's a big no-no to set your E-brake after running on the track. Bring something to put under your tire and just leave everything in neutral.
while thats a great habit to get in, pulling the ebrake doesn't do a thing for pad transfer.

why?

your ebrake is a shoe and drum setup on the INSIDE of the rotor. the normal pads never contact the rotor with the ebrake on. just an fyi
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 09:07 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
stock pads arent really good for much of anything. they're noisy and fade easily. the pfs should fare better, but with stock rotors, you will overheat them.
As a follow-up, my PF pads worked great at the track! I was really braking hard off of the main straight and they hauled the car down in good fashion. I'm sure there's better pads out there for the track, but with me streeting my car, I like these pads thus far.

The pedal feel remained the same throughout my 2-day event and there was really no fade whatsoever! As a plus, my 'Brembo' writing is now a nice yellowish vs the stock white writing!
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 09:09 AM
  #23  
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My wheel shook like crazy so I bought new brakes. Before I put them on I put on some GF210s and got it aligned and the shaking went away. Now the rotors and pads are in my closet till I really need them.

My advice is get an alignment.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #24  
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new rotors and your problem is solved.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 04:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by EVO-Me
new rotors and your problem is solved.
please, READ before you comment, the guy doesn't need new rotors.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 04:28 PM
  #26  
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I bedded my pads when I switched to Hawks. Pulse is gone. re-bedding works.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #27  
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5K miles here, I have a slight shake at 70+ How do I bed my pads correctly. What MPH and how many times?
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 05:34 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
he didn't warp a thing. Stop now, please.

Everybody and their brother thinks that a pulse in a rotor means its warped.

it's not.

it's excessive pad buildup and uneven pad transfer. Bed them in again, and you're fine.
unless...as stoptech said....its too late and then you need to....

The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye.

or just buy new rotors and do it right. im not preaching. i messed mine up too.

BUT WITH 5K MILES YOU SHOULD BE FINE...
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 05:40 PM
  #29  
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...bedding+brakes
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 11:39 AM
  #30  
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thanks.... time bed the brakes
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