Pad And Brakeline Question
HPS is not a similar pad to 2500's.
HPS are street pads - they *might* live through a track day but most likely you will be overheating them and they will wear rapidly. That would be the same for any street pad.
Yes - you might as well use up your rear OEM pads - but running more aggressive pads in the front only will upset brake bias somewhat. A better idea is a set of pads just for track days - swap them in and out.
HP+/2500's/PantherPlus are all good pads for the novice track day driver. They are tolerable on the street - sort of- and don't require a lot of heat to get in their optimal temperature range so that makes life easy. Also - they are not overly rotor aggressive like most track pads which is definitely a bonus.
Assuming you buy from a reputable company - Goodridge, Earls, Russel, Stoptech.....brakelines are pretty much brakelines. Unless you need colored ones (ugh)
And given all that -
Any pads need good bedding to function as intended.
A good FLUSH of your fluid and bleed to get a firm pedal - and re bleed after each track day.
Warmup and cool down will extend the life and reduce problems
HPS are street pads - they *might* live through a track day but most likely you will be overheating them and they will wear rapidly. That would be the same for any street pad.
Yes - you might as well use up your rear OEM pads - but running more aggressive pads in the front only will upset brake bias somewhat. A better idea is a set of pads just for track days - swap them in and out.
HP+/2500's/PantherPlus are all good pads for the novice track day driver. They are tolerable on the street - sort of- and don't require a lot of heat to get in their optimal temperature range so that makes life easy. Also - they are not overly rotor aggressive like most track pads which is definitely a bonus.
Assuming you buy from a reputable company - Goodridge, Earls, Russel, Stoptech.....brakelines are pretty much brakelines. Unless you need colored ones (ugh)
And given all that -
Any pads need good bedding to function as intended.
A good FLUSH of your fluid and bleed to get a firm pedal - and re bleed after each track day.
Warmup and cool down will extend the life and reduce problems
Originally Posted by M3this
^ Nice info .... do you think the ds2500 are a little better on the street then the endless set up?
I think more metallic pads like Hawk or Ferrodo or Porterfield don't have as many uneven deposit issues. Judder at 140+ is no fun. I've gotten judder with Hawks before but it was easy to 'rebed' and they were fine.
What rotors are you running?
What rotors are you running?
goodridge is good if you are on the budget.. IMHO, spend that extra $30 for the Stoptech Deflon coated SS lines (also DOT approved) and go w/ Ferodo DS2500 pads is the best way to go for street/track setup. if you got extra money to spend, get the Stoptech slotted rotors to complete the brake setup.
Speed Element is offering great deals on STOPTECH and Ferodos. Contact them if you are interested.. Thats where I got mine.
my 2cents worth
Speed Element is offering great deals on STOPTECH and Ferodos. Contact them if you are interested.. Thats where I got mine.

my 2cents worth
Just to throw in my 2 cents. Don't bother wasting your time and money w/ the Endless SSS-S pads. They are garbage.. I didn't realize how much they sucked until I threw on a set of Performance Friction pads from RRE. I pretty much wore through 75% of my Endless pads from one day at the track and felt like they performed a bit worse than the stock pads. They wear fast, suck when cold, and don't bite much better when warmed up.
Originally Posted by marksae
Just to throw in my 2 cents. Don't bother wasting your time and money w/ the Endless SSS-S pads. They are garbage.. I didn't realize how much they sucked until I threw on a set of Performance Friction pads from RRE. I pretty much wore through 75% of my Endless pads from one day at the track and felt like they performed a bit worse than the stock pads. They wear fast, suck when cold, and don't bite much better when warmed up.
I think one of the most frustrating and not-so-fun things on the EVO regardless of the brake lines is the removal of the brass compression fitting nut. Yes .. even on the high performance Brembo system, they went and stuck those stupid $0.10 brass nuts that everybody loves to hate.
What's even worse is when Mitsu. under coats the wheel wells, they can spray into those nuts providing an unintentional locktite function. My suggestion: dribble thread penetrant over them for a couple of days. Don't hose them down, just get some penetrant into them to try and loosen at least the potential gunk. Then make sure you have the very, very, very best hydralic wrench money can buy (or borrow from that good friend). Use a little heat, and snap that brass baby loose.
I came a hair's breath close to grinding off the fitting end, getting stainless nuts, and buying a $100.00 fitting tool, but managed to carefully get them back in and sealed.
Good luck ... the lines at least for me made a huge braking difference, under temperature.
~j.
What's even worse is when Mitsu. under coats the wheel wells, they can spray into those nuts providing an unintentional locktite function. My suggestion: dribble thread penetrant over them for a couple of days. Don't hose them down, just get some penetrant into them to try and loosen at least the potential gunk. Then make sure you have the very, very, very best hydralic wrench money can buy (or borrow from that good friend). Use a little heat, and snap that brass baby loose.
I came a hair's breath close to grinding off the fitting end, getting stainless nuts, and buying a $100.00 fitting tool, but managed to carefully get them back in and sealed.
Good luck ... the lines at least for me made a huge braking difference, under temperature.
~j.
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