Possible warped rotors
Mar 9, 2006, 07:18 PM
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Possible warped rotors
Lately when braking at highway speeds (65+) the streering wheel has a slight shake to it, but only at highway speeds. This leads me to believe my front rotors are warped which would suck because i dont want to shell out the money right now for new pads and rotors. so i am hoping that the alignment or a wheel weight is off because i have heard of similar problems when those are miscalibrated. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and also if anyone knows a good place to get new rotors for a fairly good deal.
Mar 9, 2006, 07:53 PM
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I would just take the rotors off and have the mitsubishi dealership resurface them.
it should cost aprox 30-50.00 if you bring them in off the car. or at least that is whut thay charge at my dealership. just reuse the same brake pads.
it should cost aprox 30-50.00 if you bring them in off the car. or at least that is whut thay charge at my dealership. just reuse the same brake pads.
Mar 12, 2006, 03:49 AM
#5
Originally Posted by ByUBlue2003
Lately when braking at highway speeds (65+) the streering wheel has a slight shake to it, but only at highway speeds. This leads me to believe my front rotors are warped which would suck because i dont want to shell out the money right now for new pads and rotors. so i am hoping that the alignment or a wheel weight is off because i have heard of similar problems when those are miscalibrated. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and also if anyone knows a good place to get new rotors for a fairly good deal.
99% of what people think "warped rotors", is excess pad buildup. The slightest extra pad on the rotor will feel like a pulse.
Go out and bed the brakes in again, doing 2-3 50-30 quick stops and then 2-3 80-30's, and then DON'T touch your brakes, pull into a rest area, your house, your buddies house, the local k-mart, whatever, Let them cool down.
You've now re-bedded your brakes. Bedding transfers a layer of pad to the rotor surface, and gives you added friction (makes the brakes work right). What you had was an uneven amount, due to either a quick stop, sitting holding the brakes when hot, or something of the sort.
If you want a more precise guide to bedding, go here.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
and i will quote:
...the objective of the bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer , on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. Note the emphasis on the word even, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
)
Mar 13, 2006, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ByUBlue2003
Lately when braking at highway speeds (65+) the streering wheel has a slight shake to it, but only at highway speeds. This leads me to believe my front rotors are warped which would suck because i dont want to shell out the money right now for new pads and rotors. so i am hoping that the alignment or a wheel weight is off because i have heard of similar problems when those are miscalibrated. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and also if anyone knows a good place to get new rotors for a fairly good deal.
Everyone seems to jump to this conclusion...I'd start with a search function since this has been mentioned previously. I also have a link that will assist on your future issues with pad transfer, which is probably what you are dealing with. Read Oak's write up, pretty good.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=180939
Mar 13, 2006, 02:04 PM
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does it do it when you drive it for a while?
if it does it shortly after you started the engine, it could be that your tires not warmed up yet.
if you don't want to shell out money for something so important as brakes, you need to sell your car.
if it does it shortly after you started the engine, it could be that your tires not warmed up yet.
if you don't want to shell out money for something so important as brakes, you need to sell your car.
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Mar 13, 2006, 06:50 PM
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I had the same problem, and it was my Rotors. with only 4500 miles and no hard stoping or racing! Mitsu put new rotors on and thy felt good for awhile and now its back agian but not as bad as the first instance. Im sure after a little more driving theyll start up again!!!! Not sure what the problem is!!
Mar 14, 2006, 03:06 AM
#9
Originally Posted by lukytry
I had the same problem, and it was my Rotors. with only 4500 miles and no hard stoping or racing! Mitsu put new rotors on and thy felt good for awhile and now its back agian but not as bad as the first instance. Im sure after a little more driving theyll start up again!!!! Not sure what the problem is!!
the issue is answered, it's pad transfer, your rotors were not warped. Go re-bed your pads.
Sep 21, 2010, 03:21 PM
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aaaaaaaaaaant. wrong.
99% of what people think "warped rotors", is excess pad buildup. The slightest extra pad on the rotor will feel like a pulse.
Go out and bed the brakes in again, doing 2-3 50-30 quick stops and then 2-3 80-30's, and then DON'T touch your brakes, pull into a rest area, your house, your buddies house, the local k-mart, whatever, Let them cool down.
You've now re-bedded your brakes. Bedding transfers a layer of pad to the rotor surface, and gives you added friction (makes the brakes work right). What you had was an uneven amount, due to either a quick stop, sitting holding the brakes when hot, or something of the sort.
If you want a more precise guide to bedding, go here.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
and i will quote:
(these threads pop up about 1 or two a week, so i'm getting my routine down )
99% of what people think "warped rotors", is excess pad buildup. The slightest extra pad on the rotor will feel like a pulse.
Go out and bed the brakes in again, doing 2-3 50-30 quick stops and then 2-3 80-30's, and then DON'T touch your brakes, pull into a rest area, your house, your buddies house, the local k-mart, whatever, Let them cool down.
You've now re-bedded your brakes. Bedding transfers a layer of pad to the rotor surface, and gives you added friction (makes the brakes work right). What you had was an uneven amount, due to either a quick stop, sitting holding the brakes when hot, or something of the sort.
If you want a more precise guide to bedding, go here.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
and i will quote:
(these threads pop up about 1 or two a week, so i'm getting my routine down
)
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation, or TV, in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more TV will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
if it's hard spots. I wonder if I should resurface them first before replacing them?
Last edited by steadly2004; Sep 21, 2010 at 03:28 PM.
Sep 21, 2010, 06:19 PM
#11
aaaaaaaaaaant. wrong.
99% of what people think "warped rotors", is excess pad buildup. The slightest extra pad on the rotor will feel like a pulse.
Go out and bed the brakes in again, doing 2-3 50-30 quick stops and then 2-3 80-30's, and then DON'T touch your brakes, pull into a rest area, your house, your buddies house, the local k-mart, whatever, Let them cool down.
You've now re-bedded your brakes. Bedding transfers a layer of pad to the rotor surface, and gives you added friction (makes the brakes work right). What you had was an uneven amount, due to either a quick stop, sitting holding the brakes when hot, or something of the sort.
If you want a more precise guide to bedding, go here.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
and i will quote:
(these threads pop up about 1 or two a week, so i'm getting my routine down )
99% of what people think "warped rotors", is excess pad buildup. The slightest extra pad on the rotor will feel like a pulse.
Go out and bed the brakes in again, doing 2-3 50-30 quick stops and then 2-3 80-30's, and then DON'T touch your brakes, pull into a rest area, your house, your buddies house, the local k-mart, whatever, Let them cool down.
You've now re-bedded your brakes. Bedding transfers a layer of pad to the rotor surface, and gives you added friction (makes the brakes work right). What you had was an uneven amount, due to either a quick stop, sitting holding the brakes when hot, or something of the sort.
If you want a more precise guide to bedding, go here.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
and i will quote:
(these threads pop up about 1 or two a week, so i'm getting my routine down
)
Sep 21, 2010, 07:33 PM
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dont want to say your wrong, but 99% of the time i get a complaint about this customer end up getting rotors resurface cause they over heat there brakes and rotors become uneven which get resurface. then you bed in the pads so they dont complain about shimmy at high speed stops or even regular braking or noise. i would resurface rotors at a parts store and then sand down pads on flat surface with sand paper and then bed in the pads just my .02
The other thing is I put the brembo's on my car and everything was used, minus the pads that I got cheap. I did have the rotors resurfaced one time and did the whole bed-in procedure and it was good for like 30k miles. I hope there is enough meat left on the rotors to turn again and be safe, otherwise I might have to get the budget deal from girodisc.
Sep 21, 2010, 09:53 PM
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You can rent a dial indicator from an auto parts store and check to see if rotor is true. Also check against the hub its self as that could get warped (happened to me, not sure how).
Also many auto parts places face rotors on the cheap. I think autozone is $7 bucks or something like that.
Also many auto parts places face rotors on the cheap. I think autozone is $7 bucks or something like that.
Sep 22, 2010, 04:30 AM
#14
dont want to say your wrong, but 99% of the time i get a complaint about this customer end up getting rotors resurface cause they over heat there brakes and rotors become uneven which get resurface. then you bed in the pads so they dont complain about shimmy at high speed stops or even regular braking or noise. i would resurface rotors at a parts store and then sand down pads on flat surface with sand paper and then bed in the pads just my .02
Sep 22, 2010, 05:46 AM
#15
WarmPepsi is correct. Its pad material transfer. Even on you customer cars. When they over heated the pads, the pad does not respond well and starts to fail (fall apart, melt, gum up...) and tranfers too much material to the rotor. Thats why resurfacing fixes it - you remove the material.
Yup. A pulse or "shake" is a high spot on the rotor that slows down more due to more friction between the pad and the rotor face. The high spot is pad transfer. When turning them.. you have a flat face again.If you were actually warping them, after a turn or two, it would get DRAMATICALLY worse, as you'd have a lot of uneven metal left on the rotors that would expand and contract at different rates..
