I would try going up another 100# in the rear. You should notice a difference with that. One thing to keep in mind is -- will your shocks have enough damening to control the extra spring rate. You may want to call Stance to get their input on that.

From what I've found, going stiffer in the rear will help some with the inside front wheel spin, but you really need an LSD for best performance.

I think, depending on how you are set up now you could also try spacing out the front wheels 10mm or so, or raising the rear ride height a little bit.

Anyone else have any input??

EVOlutionary

 

I now have 8k front 10k rear and am pretty happy with the handling. I used the vishnu/chronohunter formula. I could have higher overall rates but did not want to sacrifice the daily drivability.

I also put in a mitsu helical diff. BIG difference there!

I have a stock rear sway bar and 13mm spacers in front. I would have gone with less but I had huge issues with my Helix (borchuan/meagan/BC etc) coilovers and the 275s rubbing.

I have been winning BSP with this new setup vs last year being somewhere in the middle. Hopefully my driving is improving too...

 

What would you guys recommend for a track car? I want to run 275 or 285 R888/NT01s. I'm at 8/9 now and am thinking of going to:

9/10
9/11
10/11
10/12

 

I would go as high as you can live with. The big thing is how much you want the car to be loose (oversteer) The higher spring rate you go in the rear relative to the front will give you more rotation.

 

I understand that and I'm also trying to reduce body roll. I also don't want a fast breakaway if possible. To get the rear loose I'd rather go with a diff, like Carbonetic (I know, expensive). The higher rates are fine for me, but the girls I date always complain about the suspension. As they like to tell me, "It's not just about what you want."

 

Upgrading your rear diff to a more limited slip will transfer more power to the rear and help you get your rear loose on corner exit. For that, I recommend TRE's rebuild of the OEM rear diff. It turned my car from understeering on corner exit to oversteering ferociously. I spent the next six months fixing the oversteer, which was a good thing in the long run, believe me!

As for fast breakaway, there is no free lunch. The stiffer your springs, the less body roll you have, but the faster it breaks away. (Watch an F1 car spin for example.) It's all about the resonant frequency of your suspension.

 

I've got 10/12k springs on my car now, front and rear. (I think that's what your numbers are referring to). I use the car for street driving and autocross. They have worked well for both. That being said, I do adjust damping dramatically for auto cross events.

 

Thanks guys! I haven't been able to get into contact with TRE but haven't tried in a couple of months and gave up. I think I'm going with 10kg/11kg as I will get a rollbar at some point which will stiffen the car up.