biggest offset?
Originally Posted by miked420
what would be the biggest offset i could go with on an 18x9.5? and what tire size also? thanks
I dont see why you would ask for biggest offset..
spoke design matters much more than offset itself.
9.5x30/2=142.5
If the hub was all the way to the inside of the wheel so you had like a 9.5" lip then that woule be a -142.5mm offset. That is as big as you could get without moving the hub outide the width of the rim.
Of course this won't fit on any car and will handle like ****.
You need to be more specific what you have and what you are looking for.
EVOlutionary
If the hub was all the way to the inside of the wheel so you had like a 9.5" lip then that woule be a -142.5mm offset. That is as big as you could get without moving the hub outide the width of the rim.
Of course this won't fit on any car and will handle like ****.
You need to be more specific what you have and what you are looking for.
EVOlutionary
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Bangkok
^Just like to add that the conversion is actually 25.4mm to 1"
So, 9.5 x 25.4/2 = 120.65mm
a numerically 'bigger' offset and positive move the centre plane of the wheel outboard of the car more than a numerically 'smaller' one. The figure is the amount the centre plane moves in mm. For any given wheel width, a numerically 'smaller' offset will stick out of the car more. A lot of people prefer this as it fills up the wheel arches better and also these smaller offset wheels look more 'concave' or 'deep dish' compared to a wheel with (near) stock offset but wider.
One assumes that stock offset (+38) works best for stock setups as all the lines of action match up to what mitsu has designed. But moving them (out, usually) a little most likely doesn't hurt very much.
If you're really looking for numerically larger offsets, the outer plane of the wheel (where the spokes are) will be close to the calipers and there may be some clearance issues of spokes hitting calipers (as well as the usual wheel hitting fenders/struts etc). To remedy this, spacers can be used. Basically, [original offset in mm] - [spacer thickness in mm] = [effective offset].
If it's looks you're after, do go look at the actual wheel at the offset you're going to buy. The offset may suggest they should look concave, but the real thing may not. They can only have a certain number of casting/forging molds.
If you're going to extremes, twinturbozs has a very valid advice. Check the tyres also. Different brands vary slightly, like shoes. I could not have thought of a better analogy.
So, 9.5 x 25.4/2 = 120.65mm
a numerically 'bigger' offset and positive move the centre plane of the wheel outboard of the car more than a numerically 'smaller' one. The figure is the amount the centre plane moves in mm. For any given wheel width, a numerically 'smaller' offset will stick out of the car more. A lot of people prefer this as it fills up the wheel arches better and also these smaller offset wheels look more 'concave' or 'deep dish' compared to a wheel with (near) stock offset but wider.
One assumes that stock offset (+38) works best for stock setups as all the lines of action match up to what mitsu has designed. But moving them (out, usually) a little most likely doesn't hurt very much.
If you're really looking for numerically larger offsets, the outer plane of the wheel (where the spokes are) will be close to the calipers and there may be some clearance issues of spokes hitting calipers (as well as the usual wheel hitting fenders/struts etc). To remedy this, spacers can be used. Basically, [original offset in mm] - [spacer thickness in mm] = [effective offset].
If it's looks you're after, do go look at the actual wheel at the offset you're going to buy. The offset may suggest they should look concave, but the real thing may not. They can only have a certain number of casting/forging molds.
If you're going to extremes, twinturbozs has a very valid advice. Check the tyres also. Different brands vary slightly, like shoes. I could not have thought of a better analogy.
why 9.5" wide wheels on evo?
that's just adding more unnecessary rotational mass.
Get 18x9 +30...put -2 degrees of camber and slap on some 265 series rubber.
don't forget to roll the fenders. That's flush.
If you go with 235 series rubbers on 9" wheels, lower the offset down to +24
It's all about the flushness....
that's just adding more unnecessary rotational mass.
Get 18x9 +30...put -2 degrees of camber and slap on some 265 series rubber.
don't forget to roll the fenders. That's flush.
If you go with 235 series rubbers on 9" wheels, lower the offset down to +24
It's all about the flushness....
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Originally Posted by EvoPooPoo
why 9.5" wide wheels on evo?
blah . . . blah . . .
It's all about the flushness....
blah . . . blah . . .
It's all about the flushness....
Ever taken an off-ramp in a well-prepped EVO with 285 or wider sticky tires? It will make the unprepared "PooPoo" in their panties.
EVOlutionary
Originally Posted by EvoPooPoo
yes, I know how it feels. I own a well equiped evo...
Have you ever taken an off ramp in a 2800lbs 430whp s14 with 265's on the rear stretched? SIDEWAYS?
Have you ever taken an off ramp in a 2800lbs 430whp s14 with 265's on the rear stretched? SIDEWAYS?
Never been in a 240, only my fat heavy pig of a 1JZ swapped MA-70 Supra. With 265's on the rear, stretched of course. EVOlutionary
