I'm getting vibrations on my steering wheel when I brake at 70+ mph. I don't seem to get it under 70 mph only over. Do you guys think I warped my rotors? I don't race the car or even beat on it. I usually just drive to work and back. Sometimes when I wash my car the rotors do get pretty nasty and it can stay like that for a couple of days if I wash my car on a friday because I might not drive the car on the weekend. Any of you guys have this problem when braking at around 70mph and up? I did a search which says that all I needed to do was bead the brakes if it's brake dust deposit, which I did but it didn't work.

 

your rotors are warped..same thing is happening to mine

 

WTF i don't even brake hard. I just do most of my driving on the highway so I don't see how my rotors could be warped. I usually wait 2 hrs after I get home from driving before washing my car also. Does the warranty cover warped rotors?

 

Once you get your rotors turned/ new ones / whatever, make sure your lug nuts are torqued evenly (all the same). Also none of this 100ft/lbs BS some tire shops crank into them. Aim for 75-80 ft/lbs.

Delt with this myself on my Eclipse, back in the day.

Good Luck.

JW

 

Mine were exactly the same, and after standing on the brakes a bunch of times, they don't vibrate at all any more. I guess I un-warped them, lol.

 

how many miles you have on you car? i had my front rotor's and front pad's replace under warranty and i only had 10 k on them,and im going to give you a hint DO NOT LET THEM CUT YOU ROTOR'S tell them you want new one's and tell them you want new pad's as well since the rotor's are warp the pad's dont have an even surface because of the rotor's been uneven. good luck man i had the same problem as you vibration on steering wheel at highway speed's.

 

I've always thought this was due to imbalanced wheels. I'd say get your wheels balanced and aligned.

Thats always worked for me when I had that problem...

 

I know if your still under warentee with subaru they will replace for free..... what does cover?

 

Well I've only got 16k miles on my car so it should be covered under warranty. Hopefully! I'm going to take it in and see what they have to say.

Shaking at high speeds without pressing on the brakes would be because of unbalanced wheels but this is not the case. My steering wheel only shakes when brake not when i'm driving at 70+ mph.

 

Could be pad material deposited on your rotor faces...have you braked hard and then sat at a light with your foot on the brakes befores? Thats all it takes some time for this to happen...it will give you the same pulsing feeling as a warped rotor. Unless you have been really abusive on your rotors, I doubt they are warped.

You can try sanding the rotor faces lightly to break up any deposits...it's a free thing to try before having to deal with Mitsu's draconian warranty process.

 

That is almost certainly the problem - especially if you have stock pads. To fix it you should try in order

1. Re-bed the pads - maybe a few times if it is severe to smooth out the transfer layer.

2. Take to the rotors w/ some garnett paper. Re install and then re-bed

3. The lightest of skim cuts to remove the transfer layer. Then rebed the pads.

The transfer layer is only a few ten-thousands of an inch thick - but if it isn't smooth it feels like you are going over a lot of speed bumps.

GL

Example - is session 2 at Summit my brakes were pulsing pretty bad - stopped fine but pulsing. I worked them hard during the session and it slowly went away.

EDIT: If you take it to the dealer they will turn them - which is throwing away some of your very expensive rotors. Ask them about bedding procedures - if they look at you like you are from Mars I would turn around.

 

I already tried to bed them. I did like 7-8 60-10mph brake sessions then drove around for 10 mins to let them cool down but no luck.

 

Did it get any better or was it the same? IF it got alittle better I would repeat it. It sounds like you did the bedding right - were the pads smoking a bit? It is harder to do this with the factory pads as I think they are 'softer' with less abrasives in the pads as compared to metallic pads.

Well garnett paper and some elbow grease is the next step save going to the dealer. It is a bit of work though. If you take the rotors off yourself it might be worth going to a decent machine shop instead of the dealer who is going to lop .005 off per cut.

Do you see any visible pad imprinting or evidence of uneven transfer layer?

Brakes are easy when they work - tricky when they don't.

 

Bedding didn't help me at all. I just figured maybe they replace the rotors and pads or something if I brought it in. I'm more than likely going to change the rotors when I change the pads when the stockers are done so I don't mind them cutting the rotors.

 

It's worth a shot - that's what your warranty is for. Let us know what they do.