I recently replaced mine with Power Slot slotted rotors front and rear, I also use Project Mu pads. I would say that there was a noticeable improvement. I also recently installed goodridge stainless lines, and I don't have any complaints as of yet. The Power Slot rotors were fairly cheap I paid $500 total and the quality in my opinion is top notch. They are zinc plated as well so they dont rust around the edges, thats more asthetics than anything else though.

 

So pad transfer is my problem? I literally went to a desserted road and rebedded my pads in 4 times once the shakey steering wheel and brake pedal came in and everytime it worked for maybe a day and then the shakey feeling was back. I assumed that since the rebedding of my pads correctly didnt solve the problem that my rotors were warped. I also just recently resurfaced my rotors 4times each rotor because it was that warped. I then put on project Mu B force brake pads.

So what do I need to do to fix this problem? I have tried rebedding plenty of times and that hasnt worked. Do I need new pads? or rotors or both?

Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks for all the help up to this point.

-Matt

P.S.- When braking at about 3=0 mph I can feel my brakes, its like it catches the lets loose while my foot is barely on the brake, so I assumed that the rotors were warped since there was like a 'more brake less brake feeling'. Thanks again

 

that thread doesnt make sense, its bunch of sceintific crap.

plain and simple warped rotors, you turn them, it fixes them. just leave it at that lol

 

I had the same problem. Whenever I hit the brakes, my steering wheel would shake violently. I rebedded my pads, they were good to go. Not a problem since.

 

I already resurfaced my rotors thought, can I do it again? I need info on this asap, since I drive alot everyday I dont want to get into an accident. Thanks

-Matt

 

No, Please do not do that. But new ones.

 

you don't need to. if you're just driving daily, go with rotorpro's. cheap blanks. (was like 225-250 for a FULL set.)

 

OK so everyone please help me get this straight,

Since I have tried to rebed my pads and nothing good has come of it, I need to do

1= buy new rotors?

or

2= buy new pads since mine have bad pad transfer?

or

3= Buy both new rotors and pads?

Everyone is giving me different answers, first its my pads, then its new rotors I am so lost. Please help me out, I have been searching for hours and my exact topic has yet to be completely talked about in full detail. Please help me!Thank

-Matt

 

measure your rotors. if theyre close to the service limit, then you need rotors.

measure your pads, if they're close to the limit (ie- the squeeler thing is hitting) then you need pads.

 

I just got project mu b force brake pads a few months ago. I will measure the rotors and see. I know when I resurfaced them they were so warped that I had to do it 4 times so I think my rotors are not going to be able to do another. So if my rotors need to be replace do I need new pads also if my current pads are fine?? what about pad transfer? How can I tell if my pads are bad besides wear down.

Warmpepsi - you first stated that my rotors were not bedded in properly and its poor habits of the driver that usually cause simptoms of warped rotors but infact that most rotors are not warped but actually uneven pad transfer on the rotor. Well how can you fix uneven pad transfer? by rebedding my pads which i did? so definetly I need new pads then? I am getting quick answers when I need detailed info on most of this stuff. Please keep helping me lol

Thanks again

-Matt

 

You can re-bed pads until theres no pad left.

When you're "bedding" the pads in, youre transfering an event layer of pad material onto the rotor.

You don't need to turn the rotors at all. But since you have, you might wanna look into the rotorpro's, as a stock replacement.

Pads should be fine, just throw the new rotors on, go out, and do 3-4 55-30's and 2-3 80-30's. then stay off the brakes completely for say 2 miles.

If it's still there, you didn't get them hot enough. When i say brake, i mean, HARD. Normally on cold ra-1's (r compounds), it'll sometimes lock them and feather the abs.

The hotter you get them, the better, but the longer it'll take to cool.

 

Ok I think I got it. I am going to buy new front rotors and reuse my project mu bforce pads on my new slotted rotors. I have to bed them in and that should be it. Someone told me that I should take a rough sand paper and go over the pads again before trying to rebed? any thoughts on that? So my new rotors wont get messed up in anyway from my current used pads then correct? Thanks again all

-Matt

 

No, really won't do a thing.

Like the guys trying to scuff up the rotors with pad transfer, it's a joke.

Just throw the pads in, and go out and bed them in, you should be just fine.

 

to bed in pads.
3 60-15 mph stops with medium pedal pressure.
this will get the brakes up to operating temp.
do 6 80-15 stops medium to heavy stops. do not activate the abs, you want to keep the rotors turning.
drive the car for 10 minutes without using the brakes. park the car for about 2 hours, than you should be good to go.

i would say do all bedding at nite out in the country so you dont get a ticket and you dont kill someone. also normally tou can find a road without stop signs so you dont have to stop completely.

it is very very important that you dont stop and leave the brakes engaged with the rotors hot. if you do you will transfer unevenly and the brakes will shake. i would not engage the e-brake eather, you can fuse the e-brakes to the rotor drum surface, then you are really f'ed.

learn to not use the brake while sitting at stop lights. i know its very hard when on a hill, just use the lightest pedal pressure possible. if you can break your habit of keeping you foot o the brake while stopped than you will cure 95% of your warped rotor problems.

 

advice is good, but you can pull the e-brake without concern. If it was a hydraulic one, that clamped the pads on, you'd have issues, but with the interior drum on the rears, you're fine.

Also, even if you do trigger the abs, obviously, brake a little less, but the rotors are still moving, because of the abs, so no worries there.

However, i do recommend not using it during track days, etc. Brake temps are a lot higher then, and you're still 99% likely to be fine, but it's a good habit to GET OUT of.

You really dont need to do the 10 minutes, and 2 hr wait though, you just need them to cool down to a normal temp, which at 45-50 mph, doesn't take long.

Example, i bed mine in, and have maybe 1 1/2 miles to my home. Get them hot and good, use the tranny to slow the car, etc, and can get to the house without touching the brakes. let it sit for 20-30 minutes, and then load it up on the trailer for a track day.

It's ear piercing the morning after a track day when i unload the car and ride the brakes down the tilt-top of the trailer. The joy of super-cold pads