Hey all,

I've just installed a set of WORKS/OHLINS Stage 3 Coilovers and WORKS rear Sway Bar.

I was wondering what settings you guys run on the clickers for Autocross, street and track?

Camber you guys run for Autocross and track (street, I'm staying with factory setup)

Also what hole you recommend for the sway bar for each, currently in the middle.

for the record, I cuurently run 18 x 8.5 rims (30mm offset) with 235/40 Bridgestone RE55 (Semi slicks)

Thanks

Mike

 

The Works Stage 3 are the same as the Ohlins PCV (Sportline) coilovers that I have. Set the front fender to wheel center to 350 mm. Rear at 330 mm (lowering -35 F, -25 R). Stock ride height is 385mm F, 355 mmR. I can get you the actual distance to set the spring pearches the next time I pull the wheels off. Use 11 clicks from full stiff on the street and I used 6 clicks from full stiff at Buttonwillow. The Japanese magazines say to use between 3-5 clicks from full stiff on the track. But Buttonwillow is a little more bumpy. With these settings you will not hit the bump stops. The Japanese magazines say to lower -40mm F, -30mm R, but you might hit the bump stops with those settings. I have a cusco rear sway bar and the car was perfectly neutral at the track. I am assume you have the 10K F, 8K R Eibach (german springs) on there that come with these coilovers. run your camber plates 6 dashes in from the zero mark. This should be about -2.5 degrees. I tested 5 dashes (-2.2 degrees) and it was boarderline of needing more camber. But this could very depending on the track. I had -1.1 degrees on the rear and zero toe all around.

Just a note, buy some locktite and place it on the threads for the bolt that goes through the pillow ball mount of the front struts. They will come loose. These are my top secret settings that I have developed over 3 years of testing on my car with different stuff.

 

Hi,

Thanks a million for the settings and advice. I have lowered the car 25mm all round to keep the rake the same... will try the 35 in front, or do you think I can leave it at 25?

Yes I am running the Eibach springs

On the notches for camber, I assume you are running the lower bolt on the -1 setting?

thanks
Mike

 

I wouldn't go much higher than a 10mm difference between the 2 wheel gaps. It will feel too nose heavy. Give the -35 up front a try. The camber measurements are with the bolt on the more negative setting.

On my car with the stock suspension, the bolt in the less negative position gave a camber reading of near 0. With it in the more negative position it was about -1.3 if my memory is correct, but it definantly wasn't -2.

 

Ideally, get your car corner balanced and you won't have to guess on the correct ride heights. As far as settings for your dampers, that will vary according to tires, conditions, track layout, driving style and even differences in actual valving (even if spec'd the same).

You can probably evoracerx's settings as a good baseline and adjust from there, though.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I had the corner weights done,

car is 49.1% / 50.9% diagonal and is
59.5% / 40.5% front/ rear
49% / 51% left / right.

this is with me in the car and 1/2 tank fuel.

Will give those settings a bash, thanks

Mike

 

What you really need to do is get a baseline time on a few Auto-x runs. Take those times and make small incremental changes to your valving. Try to keep other variables constant (tire pressures, tire temps and ambient temps) the same or at least chart them. Time your runs and see where improvements were made. Also note what each change felt like. You should be able to see progress that way.

 

what japanese magazines?

 

I just had my Ohlins DFV installed at WORKS last month. They told me the fronts were 8 clicks out from full stiff and the rears were 7 clicks out from full stiff, sway bar on middle setting. However, i upgraded to the Swift springs, 9kg front and 10kg in the rear.

 

made me spit out my lunch

 

so the clicks are reliable on ohlins?

 

Not sure what you mean. Are you asking if clicks actually adjust the damper?

 

the adjustments on the jdm type or low end coilovers have (boast) 30 adjustments typically, only about every 4 or 8 do anything.

there's also horrid hysteresis.

the ohlins are like this or not?

 

I have not messed with it since i got them so i couldn't tell you about how effective each click is. The new DFV's have 20 clicks, not sure but i think the old PCV had 25 clicks. I was advised to only change the settings one click at a time if the struts were warmed up/hot. If the struts were cold i could adjust as many clicks as i wanted.

 

Ohlins PCV and DFV coilovers are developed and built in Japan and sold in the Japanese market by Carrozzeria Japan... there's many reviews on Ohlins coilovers in Japanese magazines.

Here's a review of the Ohlins DFV in Option magazine.
http://www.jdm-option.com/eng/parts/06_05/ohlins.html