Tire Presure
This is my First AWD vehicle. I've always run a lower front and a higher rear air presure, yet the EVO asks for the opposite. I am currently running equal front and rear at 32psi
Would like to hear what others are running. What would you suggest for a bit looser rear end. maybe a 32 front 36 rear?
Thanks
Would like to hear what others are running. What would you suggest for a bit looser rear end. maybe a 32 front 36 rear?
Thanks
WSB
When I used to race Go-Karts we would add presure to the end we wanted to loosen.. Is this your understanding of all cars or is your suggestion to lower presure to the axel I want to loosen an AWD thing? Thanks
When I used to race Go-Karts we would add presure to the end we wanted to loosen.. Is this your understanding of all cars or is your suggestion to lower presure to the axel I want to loosen an AWD thing? Thanks
Oversteer occurs when the rear tires saturate their grip prior to the front tires saturating. To give a passenger car tire more lateral grip, you increase the pressure (and thus the cornering stiffness), within a small margin. This increase is pretty minimal, but it's enough to affect the over/understeer balance without significantly altering the longitudinal grip. I wouldn't go under 30 or over 36 (cold pressure) with the Evo's tires, so you'd work within that range to balance. There are numerous other ways to change the balance, of course, such as changing anti-sway bars, spring rates, etc; none of these are as easy to work with as tire pressure though. In the end, it's all the same goal: controlling when the tires saturate.
I'm not 100% certain of this, but in the situation of a go-kart, increasing the pressure is going to drastically decrease the contact patch, thus taking away grip. Putting in extremely high pressures, say 42 lbs (cold), would have a similar effect in a car (not to mention totally saturating the tires' longitudinal grip under moderate acceleration and braking).
I'm not 100% certain of this, but in the situation of a go-kart, increasing the pressure is going to drastically decrease the contact patch, thus taking away grip. Putting in extremely high pressures, say 42 lbs (cold), would have a similar effect in a car (not to mention totally saturating the tires' longitudinal grip under moderate acceleration and braking).
Claudius: Since I'm Evo-less, I'll trust your judgement on the ideal tire pressures. But on every car I've ever seen, riding on radial tires, decreasing the rear and/or increasing the front tire pressures leads to more oversteer. The only thing I can see that would affect this would be the AWD system, but I don't see how that would alter the physics of the tire-road interaction.
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Billy, I am very surprised to see you state the above.
Unless the tire pressure is insufficient, increasing it will diminish grip, like our go-karting friend said. And that's like that for all cars, not only AWD. I once put like 20% more pressure in my rear tires on an M3 a few years ago, it was all over the place!
I can only see what you say if the tire pressure is too low in the first place.
Unless the tire pressure is insufficient, increasing it will diminish grip, like our go-karting friend said. And that's like that for all cars, not only AWD. I once put like 20% more pressure in my rear tires on an M3 a few years ago, it was all over the place!

I can only see what you say if the tire pressure is too low in the first place.
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With the exception of the BFG Comp TA R1s from a few years ago, every tire I have autocrossed with responded to air pressure changes such that more air in the front (or less in the rear) resulted in more oversteer (or less understeer). Which is why I find it odd that Cladius is saying it's the other way around.
Anyway, with the alignment as delivered by Mitsubishi, I am running the factory recommended pressures on the street. At my last autocross though, I used 42f/35r warm on my last run and it felt pretty good, and it was the first time I actually got the car to rotate at all. Prior to that, I was using the same front pressures, but higher rear pressures. Once I get the thing aligned and start running race tires though, I will have to start all over...
JW
Anyway, with the alignment as delivered by Mitsubishi, I am running the factory recommended pressures on the street. At my last autocross though, I used 42f/35r warm on my last run and it felt pretty good, and it was the first time I actually got the car to rotate at all. Prior to that, I was using the same front pressures, but higher rear pressures. Once I get the thing aligned and start running race tires though, I will have to start all over...
JW
Originally posted by WestSideBilly
Claudius: Since I'm Evo-less, I'll trust your judgement on the ideal tire pressures. But on every car I've ever seen, riding on radial tires, decreasing the rear and/or increasing the front tire pressures leads to more oversteer. The only thing I can see that would affect this would be the AWD system, but I don't see how that would alter the physics of the tire-road interaction.
Claudius: Since I'm Evo-less, I'll trust your judgement on the ideal tire pressures. But on every car I've ever seen, riding on radial tires, decreasing the rear and/or increasing the front tire pressures leads to more oversteer. The only thing I can see that would affect this would be the AWD system, but I don't see how that would alter the physics of the tire-road interaction.
I'm just talking out of my ars here but it seems that allowing the tire to role just a little more at the rear will increase the slip angle and decrease grip at turn in resulting in a little oversteer
I would think that over inflating the rear enough to reduce the contact patch will also work, though it will cause premature center wear.
I think I'm running 32F 30 rear cold. they were 34 front 34 rear from the dealer.
mad - Increasing the tire pressure increases sidewall stiffness, which in turn increases lateral grip. That's the whole basis of my post, which is why I still can't figure out Claudius' reasoning. 
Also, you should never be in the range where you're significantly reducing contact patch with pressure, as this would take well over 40 lbs cold in most wide tires. The situation where you're going to lose contact is more likely from misalignment.

Also, you should never be in the range where you're significantly reducing contact patch with pressure, as this would take well over 40 lbs cold in most wide tires. The situation where you're going to lose contact is more likely from misalignment.
I agree with claudius on the tyre pressure changes. I think this has to do with how the car handles weight transfer. If you have more pressure in the rear, the weight transfer is less to you have less grip and vice versa
Weight transfer isn't a property of tire pressure, though. Sprung mass, CG height, primary roll stiffness (springs), auxillary roll stiffness (suspension geometry, anti-sway bars, etc) are what determines weight transfer.
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Originally posted by WestSideBilly
mad - Increasing the tire pressure increases sidewall stiffness
mad - Increasing the tire pressure increases sidewall stiffness
Originally posted by WestSideBilly
which in turn increases lateral grip.
which in turn increases lateral grip.
Originally posted by WestSideBilly
Also, you should never be in the range where you're significantly reducing contact patch with pressure
Also, you should never be in the range where you're significantly reducing contact patch with pressure
Originally posted by WestSideBilly
this would take well over 40 lbs cold in most wide tires.
this would take well over 40 lbs cold in most wide tires.
And you're forgetting an important factor: an Evo can generate more lateral grip than almost any other road car, so 29 PSI in the rear will allow the tire to stick due to slight sidewall flexing allowing more load, when too stiff a sidewall would cause sudden loss of grip, like a regular car with 40 psi tyre pressure like you mention...
Originally posted by Claudius
Not necessarily. This is the part where your assumptions lead you to a wrong conclusion.
Not necessarily. This is the part where your assumptions lead you to a wrong conclusion.
Originally posted by Claudius
That's an assumption. No idea where you got this number from.
And you're forgetting an important factor: an Evo can generate more lateral grip than almost any other road car, so 29 PSI in the rear will allow the tire to stick due to slight sidewall flexing allowing more load, when too stiff a sidewall would cause sudden loss of grip, like a regular car with 40 psi tyre pressure like you mention...
That's an assumption. No idea where you got this number from.
And you're forgetting an important factor: an Evo can generate more lateral grip than almost any other road car, so 29 PSI in the rear will allow the tire to stick due to slight sidewall flexing allowing more load, when too stiff a sidewall would cause sudden loss of grip, like a regular car with 40 psi tyre pressure like you mention...
What I said is true of any tire on any car. If you can generate that much grip at 29 PSI, you can generate more at 32 PSI because you'll have a higher cornering (sidewall) stiffness. The converse of this is that, as you say, the approach to those (higher) limits will most likely be more drastic and a bit less predictable. Also, tires have diminishing gains with increased pressure, so you can't take this to extremes and expect 50 PSI to work handle well.
All this banter still leads me to say that if you want oversteer, the front is going to have a higher pressure than the rear, unless your suspension already has a significant amount of oversteer designed in.


