I posted a while back a thread that I boiled my ATE fluid last open track event. I took everyones advice and made some modifications to my braking system. I still am running carbo-tech xp12/10's on the car but I changed the fluid from ATE to Motul, Added some Ti shims in the front, removed the shield from behind the rotor, made some DYI 3 inch ducting running to the brakes. The ducting took about 3 hrs to do (routing 3 inch tube is a bastard on the evo) and cost about 5 bucks to make. After these modifications the brakes are great,no issues of fad, heat, boiling etc. Matter of fact I had FTD of the day yesterday and bested my time by a 1/2 second. (granted there were only 15 cars )

So if any one is having braking issues consider some Motul fluid, Giro Disc Ti shims,and some cheap *** ducting. Made all the difference in the world. I am going to try to post pics of the ducting soon.

Thought I would share.

 

would you say that the motul made the biggest difference?

 

Where did you get the ducting and what kind did you get? I went to Home Depot last weekend, but could not find what we used like 8 years ago with Porsche race cars...Also I was thinking about having the pick up below the front bumper (catching air coming under the car) so as to not take anything away from the LICP or oil cooler....Thoughts?

Please post pictures Thanks

 

Nah, I think the shims/removal sheilds/ducting played a bigger role. The Motul was just the icing on the cake.

 

I would think Motul makes improvement over fluid boiling. Ducting will sure help is correctly set up. Evo brakes need better cooling, many OEM Brembo brakes have front caliper located on the rearward rather than front, maybe better for cooling?

 

I got the ducting from LOWES in the water heater section (finding 3 inch is a *****). To attach it to the front bumber I used a plastic 4inch-3inch reducer and zip-tied it to the front mesh in the bumper. I was also concerned with blocking my oil cooler etc. I had to trim quite a bit of plastic material from the oil duct guide to get the 3 inch line in (there is a lot of air for the oil cooler still). I am going to try to source some 2 inch ducting like the forge kit uses instead, I feel it will fit better and provide better clearance for things underneath. Also with the 2 inch I can run it along the control arm right to the caliper some how. Right now my ducting is just in the general area of the brakes. I'll try to get some pics up.

 

The difference between boiling ATE and boiling Motul is like 30 degrees - seems doubtful that you were at the point of boiling the ATE but still below that of the Motul.

The shims insulate the pistons from the pad - and more air and an open dust shield are adding a lot of cooling to the rotor and caliper.

Nice work.

 

Did you do anything to the rear rotors?

 

Nice i may have to do this as well.

 

Nope.

 

Pictures ????

 

bump... i'm going to track my Evo so any tips regarding the brakes would be helpful :-)

 

Crappy camera phone pics when I first did it. (I am repainting my garage floors so I don't have access to my lift to take better pics ) notice how the ducting doesn't go straight to the rotor? This is reason I want to use 2 inch and route it on the control arm some how to the rotor. You can get the basic jist though. It needs work for sure

 

Looks pretty good.. So you routed around the passenger side opening so as not to block the oil cooler path? Can you explain?

 

lol, wow, those are huge.