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-2 Front Camber?

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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:04 AM
  #1  
vitoal18t's Avatar
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-2 Front Camber?

From what I gathered stock Evo 9 suspension has eccentric bolts that can adjust between 0 and -2 degrees of negative camber.

From yesterdays track event and Laguna Seca I think stock suspension is very good on the EVO, but front needs more camber, even at 40psi hot I was scrubbing my sidewalls. I think -2 degrees will work.

Do I need more camber to run street tires like stock Yokohamas or Azenis RT-615s.

I know that with RA1 people recommend to use 2.5+ degrees of negative camber.

Thank you!
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:11 AM
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For a trakc setu of course you will need more camber...
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by vitoal18t
From what I gathered stock Evo 9 suspension has eccentric bolts that can adjust between 0 and -2 degrees of negative camber.

From yesterdays track event and Laguna Seca I think stock suspension is very good on the EVO, but front needs more camber, even at 40psi hot I was scrubbing my sidewalls. I think -2 degrees will work.

Do I need more camber to run street tires like stock Yokohamas or Azenis RT-615s.

I know that with RA1 people recommend to use 2.5+ degrees of negative camber.

Thank you!
Did you use a tire pyrometer to look at heat ranges across the tire? What was the car doing (pushing ?) that makes you say that -2 degrees is not enough or that you need more negative camber?

If you want a better setup for the track, you may want to contact mueller or robispec....
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:13 AM
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I see, can anyone actually confirm that I can set stock suspension to -2 degrees of camber with just twisting the bolt?

I am pretty sure I have 0 or 0.5 camber now in front.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by vitoal18t
From what I gathered stock Evo 9 suspension has eccentric bolts that can adjust between 0 and -2 degrees of negative camber.
-1 an -2 are the settings given in the shop manual. In reality, you end up getting at little bit less than that. Something like -1.7 at the -2 setting.


From yesterdays track event and Laguna Seca I think stock suspension is very good on the EVO, but front needs more camber, even at 40psi hot I was scrubbing my sidewalls. I think -2 degrees will work.

Do I need more camber to run street tires like stock Yokohamas or Azenis RT-615s.
It's common practice to immediately to flip that bolt to -2 during the first routine alignment. It _will_ help handling on any tire.

My people (myself included) have two alignement settings. The first with that bolt at -2 and toe at 0 for street driving, and a more agressive setting (with camber plates) that we switch to for racing.

d
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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Thank you very much for the response!

-1.7 or even -2 is not enough for racing, but for track events on a street tires I might just get away with it.

Planning to soon buy a pyrometer for the car and maybe camber plates in the future.

But for 255/40-17 Toyo Ra1 on stock suspension what would you say is a good camber setting? -2.5 degrees? -3? With Hoosier slicks I think people go up to -4 degrees of camber. Hoosiers love and need camber.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 03:35 PM
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if you daily drive your car i would stick with a -2 to -2.5 up front and the stock -1 in the rear, me and a few others that autox our EVO's seem to have good success with those with both street and slicks. The best part IMO with that setup also is that it does not effect tire wear greatly...again if you daily drive your car.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by vitoal18t
But for 255/40-17 Toyo Ra1 on stock suspension what would you say is a good camber setting? -2.5 degrees? -3? With Hoosier slicks I think people go up to -4 degrees of camber. Hoosiers love and need camber.
I'm hesitant to say as I don't run that tire. Lots of people do, so I'm sure somebody will chime in with useful comments.

Choosing the right camber settings can be difficult because it depends on the rest of your setup (toe, springrate, dampening, driving style, track layout, temperature, etc).

There's not doubt that you want as much negative camber as you can get out of that stock bolt though. The factory alignement is likely to be off, so just getting things properly setup will probably make the car better balanced.

There has been very little talk about using camber plates with the stock hardware. This is probably due to clearance issues with that huge front spring and smallish fender well. It seems as though everyone who is willing to do fender work is also willing to pony up for adjustable coilovers.

d
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