Good choice on these! I have the same setup on the XS. I was quit impressed by how the car hugs the road so much better than before. After driving thru some industrial area roads, I realized the ride wasn't as bumpy as I orginally thought 10/10kg would be. The valve design on the Zeals are simply amazing. I was told the valve design plays a large role on how stiff the susp is......not just spring rates. At first, I didn't think that entirely true, but you'd be surprise if you get a ride in my car. You can feel the stiffness of the coilovers but you can also feel the shocks absorbing the bumps. Just a tip, make sure you put the right amount of preload on these bad boys. Good luck

 

See now that brings me to some questions. On a motorcycle, preload was a static load placed on the springs while at rest. This setting determined how "stiff" the spring would feel, how much it would compress when under further load, and the rake of the forks. Correctly dialed in it should allow for the initial dip without bottoming out, which allows for a better turn in.

Preload on the car work the same way? I know it will load the spring up. But how does that affect the car's ride and responsiveness in turning? Is it the same basic premis times four? The preload would contribute to the ride quality, but will it affect the height of the car like it does on the bike (even though there are height adjustments on the coilover already)?

Something else I was thinking about too...I need to find out what the stock alignment settings are now (but I'll search for that or look in my manual).

Thanks for the assistance guys. I didn't think there were Zeals in my price range. I appreciate the heads up.

 

Zeals are awesome.
I have the 10kgm set up as well and I don't think it's harsh at all.
It's totally tolerable as a daily driver.

I am currently riding on damping settings of level 2 all around and it's just a bit
stiffer than stock.
Valving on the Zeals are very good IMO.

Good choice BTW.

 

Thanks...good choice on er...the sig pic you've got there. Where's the rest of her pics?

I noticed that the only real difference between the Zeal Function X and the Zeal Function XS was the adjustability, valving, and spring rates. With these Function XS's custom valving and 10k/10k spring rates that only difference now is going to be the adjustability--which shouldn't be that big a deal considering that right now I'm not truly in the competitive racing scene yet.

So is level 1 full stiff, and you dialed out to 2? Or vice versa?

 

Thanks for the compliment.
I've been getting a lot of request to post more of her pics but I don't have anymore.
I got the pic from some site and I can't even remember.
Her position is very welcoming dont ya think


actually this is how the damping setting work.

level 1= soft setting
level 6= very stiff.

BTW, you have to make sure you have the pre-load set properly.
If it's set improperly, you will notice a very bouncy ride.
I had mine set a half turn.

How I set mine is you turn the spring perch by hand until it stops turning and turn another halft turn and you're set.

 

I suppose the directions that come with it will explain in more detail as to what they recommend...

So preload (static sag) on the car is pretty much the same it seems as on the bike, minus the height thing. Do you have to add preload at all? What if you wanted it to be a softer ride, ya know? Because if the preload only worked at one setting I don't think they would have allowed for it to be adjusted at all, no?
(again I'm just trying to learn about the car suspensions vs what I already know from bike suspensions).

Wow. Those settings are wicked. I couldn't imagine how much harder it would be at the stiffest setting. If 2 is just harder than stock, what the heck does 6 feel like?! I guess 1 would be stock or a lil' below stock ?

 

You do need some preload.
If there was no preload the ride will be very bouncy.
Zeal recommends about a 1/2 turn of preload on the coilovers but you can put a tad more if you like.

As far as the damping goes, I've tried up to level 5 setting and you can feel every crack and bump on the road surface.
I would only use level 5 or 6 on a race track where the road surface is very nicely finished (well most tracks at least).
For street ride, I would set it at level 3 or 2 and be done.

Oh BTW, never use preload settings to adjust your height.
It says in the manual not to use preload to change ride height.
You must use the lower perch on the struts to adjust your height.

I hope this helped a bit.

 

Cool, I think I've got an idea on the settings now for the car. I'm going to do some more research on car suspensions and the affects of various settings vs. the motorcycles. On a bike preload wasn't always necessary when changing around parameters in the forks/shocks -- spring rate, collar size, and oil v air in the fork, etc.

I rode around for a while without preload in my gix 750 track bike but that's because I needed it to literally dive down when I hit the brakes to give myself a better turn-in...but also because the longer collars I used already gave it a bit of preload internally.

 

Getting ready to install the suspension....anyone know of where to set the coils to get as close to stock suspension height as possible?

I'd like to set the height before putting them on the car, and then just going to get the alignment done.

 

Cusco -1
Tien +1

 

why even post? the dudes already bought the coilovers that he wants and the are neither cusco or tein...

 

Tein = ghey

 

Don't know if this was mentioned, but try JIC FLT A2 from mueller for $2000. He customizes them based on your needs.
www.roadracechassis.com

edit - just noticed he got something already...