I do use a torque wrench. Whats the best brand to go with for OEM rotors? Or does it matter?

 

It doesn't matter. There are plenty of rotor dealers in the vendor section...I will reiterate, however, that the chances of warp are slim to none. It is probably brake pad material that is causing the effect you are experiencing. You can "turn" them at least once, but decent aftermarket rotors aren't that expensive...Make sure, next time, that you properly bed the rotors and use old pads to do it.

 

Wow I learn something every day. After 3 sets of rotors.

 

Well getting them turned is like $15 a rotor so it's worth a try. No, it will not help with brake squeal as this comes from the shims, lack of shims or not enough high temperature grease on the shims.

 

when my stock brake pad were gone i went with the hawk.... i squeel like Bit@# but after i got my ss brake line install, the squeel are gone

 

How does the SS line help the squeel?

 

dude SS brake lines has nothing to do with the brake squeal.

 

absolutly true

 

I havn't pulled my stock pads out yet, so this is all general information.

Most OEM brakes come with anti-squeel shims on the back side of the pads. When you switch pads, get new shims. Clean the back of the new pads with some brake cleaner, and clean the contact surfaces of the caliper pistons with brake cleaner on a rag. I personally don't like spraying painted/powdercoated calipers with brake cleaner, which is why I use a rag.

I then spray the back sides of the pads with Brake anti-squeel, which is a tacky gum which glues the pads to the calipers. I spray a light coat on the back of the pads, install the anti-squeel shims, spray another light coat on the shims, and then let everything sit for 10-15 minutes to tack up.

I then install the pads in the calipers, bed the brakes, and change the brake fluid

As for rotors, any quality rotor will do. Just make sure your dealer doesn't store the rotors on edge, as this will warp them sitting for years on the shelf. I worked for a warehouse out of highschool, and the owner almost changed brands of brake manufacturers due to returns... the rep came out, swapped the stock, and said "as it says on the side of the box, store the rotors flat" and from then on, rotors were stocked flat, and returns on "warped rotors" went down 400%

As for pads, I have used Many different types of pads, and after going through pad after pad, I finally chose Porterfield R4S pads on all of my cars. they are a good pad that heats quickly with no green fade for street/canyon/autocross driving. they are "rotor friendly" with little dusting.

For track days, I still use porterfield, but choose the R4 compound. these are more aggressive, have more dusting, take a few turns to heat up, but have more bite and take more abuse before green fading. They still are "rotor friendly" but I would not use these on the street because they take a bit longer to heat up, and on the street with emergency braking, you need the brakes NOW.

Now, I havn't had the need yet, but they have an R4E compound. E is for endurance. These brakes are the most green fade resistant, but they take a couple laps to heat up. These are a no-no for street use, they are too aggressive for long term use on street rotors.

I prefer slotted rotors to X-drilled rotors for even wear, and crack resistance. I like to cryo-treat my rotors for extended life. I also have my rotors cadmium coated so the non-wear items don't rust.

Brake lines must be stainless steel for a pedal feel I enjoy.

Brake fluid for me is always Motul 5.1 for street use, and Motul 600 for my motorcycles and track use cars.

Hope I helped

 

Now thats what I have been looking for as for the noise. Great info, thank you.

But I do have one question, those cryo rotors, are they good for people who are hard on the brakes? As in , so hard they warp rotors? heres a bit of info on me, every car I have ever had, even my 1st, a ford escort wagon, I warped rotors because I brake hard. I tend to drive fast and stop fast too, I cant seem to brake the habbit no matter how hard I try.

 

to avoid warped rotors:


76ft/lbs of torque on the lugs. Tighten in a "star" pattern. Don't trust the tire monkeys to give a rat's *** about the torque specs on your car. Buy a torque wrench and do it yourself. It's the ONLY way.

Do not drive through water with hot brakes-rapid temp change will cause them to warp

Do not use your parking brake immediately after coming off of the track after hard brake use-the tension on the rotor will cause warpage as the temp changes unevenly as they cool

Do not drop a rotor on a hard surface even when cool (sounds strange, but the shock can cause the rotor to warp under stress when put back on the car)



All of this goes double for slotted and/or drilled rotors.