Camber?????
Camber?????
Ok, i went to get my car aligned and they told me they could only get -.4 in the front.. And i heard of people running up to -2... So What is the trick????? do you just use the stut assembly to adjust at the 2 bolts below the spring???? Cause that is how he was doing it.. And i have never aligned a car..
Here are the settings i am thinking of running.
-2 Front
-.5 Rear
1mm toe-in front
0 toe rear
I was thinking of maybe going down to a -1.5 in front rather then a full 2*..
Opinions and help?? Yes i know it will eat my tires
Thanks,
-Zach
Here are the settings i am thinking of running.
-2 Front
-.5 Rear
1mm toe-in front
0 toe rear
I was thinking of maybe going down to a -1.5 in front rather then a full 2*..
Opinions and help?? Yes i know it will eat my tires

Thanks,
-Zach
Problem with the front camber is that the Evo comes with a flat sided eccentric bolt, which has only two possible settings. Supposed to be -1 and -2 degrees, but really ends up being ~-.75 and ~-1.5 or so. Any more will require mods or camber plates.
The rest of your alignment looks good though.
The rest of your alignment looks good though.
Thanks.. Here is the link on setting front camber you gave me in the other thread.. good info case anyone searchs and comes accross this.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=22331
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=22331
Here were my results: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=28038
You need 0 toe both front and back.
The bottom line is the the camber bolt setting in the front is a crap shoot. I think my results were better than most as far as getting so close to -2.0. The rear is tricky because the toe changes as the camber change so it takes a while to get it right.
Good luck and you will really enjoy it with more camber up front.
EDIT: Jump on http://www.mitsubi****echinfo.com/ before they start charging and print out pages 33A-7, 33A-8, 34-6 and 34-7. Then take that with you to the shop.
You need 0 toe both front and back.
The bottom line is the the camber bolt setting in the front is a crap shoot. I think my results were better than most as far as getting so close to -2.0. The rear is tricky because the toe changes as the camber change so it takes a while to get it right.
Good luck and you will really enjoy it with more camber up front.
EDIT: Jump on http://www.mitsubi****echinfo.com/ before they start charging and print out pages 33A-7, 33A-8, 34-6 and 34-7. Then take that with you to the shop.
Last edited by EVO Rosso; Jul 15, 2003 at 03:59 PM.
Ok, redid the alignment today.. kinda hard to get the negative camber up front.. I could hit ~2.1 before tightening the bolts down..
But after tight got -1.6 drivers side -1.7 passanger side.
0 toe all around and -.6 and -.7 rear camber.. would have like less on the rear but he was done with that when i showed up.. and i helped with the front to get it right.. You really need someone pushing in on the tire/hub when you tighten the bolts back down.
-Zach
But after tight got -1.6 drivers side -1.7 passanger side.
0 toe all around and -.6 and -.7 rear camber.. would have like less on the rear but he was done with that when i showed up.. and i helped with the front to get it right.. You really need someone pushing in on the tire/hub when you tighten the bolts back down.
-Zach
Originally posted by zyounker
Ok, redid the alignment today.. kinda hard to get the negative camber up front.. I could hit ~2.1 before tightening the bolts down.. -Zach
Ok, redid the alignment today.. kinda hard to get the negative camber up front.. I could hit ~2.1 before tightening the bolts down.. -Zach
After tightening the bolt I was only able to get -1.5 (with the driver) on both sides. 0 toe all around.


