Brake system question?
Sorry to hijack, but i feel it needs to be addressed.....again.
Ok. "High End Kits" doesn't mean sh*t to anyone who actually races or 'uses' their braking system to its fullest. It's all about heat, durability, material, and motion. The reason 80% of the "kits" out there offer them with drilled only is because
1. They look "hardcore"
2. By drilling a ton of holes it saves weight (thus removing mass from our "massive" brakes)
3. It's one of the 15 ways to cool brakes down.
ONE plain and simple fact is that every single rotor on the planet can crack. We've had it happen on Power Slot cryo rotors which are slotted, we've had it happen on ceramic 8k dollar Porsche brake systems, and i've seen it about 90% more often on the standard drilled brake setups of Porsche, Ferrari, S7's, Project Mu's, Brembo's Grand T kits, and so on and so forth.
The point is, is that Drilled rotors have the Ability to crack faster, easier, and with less abuse then the rest of the styles because of all the missing mass on the rotor surface itself, and because the holes go all the way through, thus weakening the structure all together. Especially when heat and pressure is applied. Think of a block of steel, if you drill a ton of holes through it, then repeatedly hit it with a sledge hammer, it will start to splinter and crack in sections and fall apart. If you slice a groove into it, it will start to splinter around that groove, and little chucks will fall off of the surface around the groove but only as deep as the groove is, and maybe a 5% chance that it will split in half where the groove is after enough hits. If you just put 'dimples' or small grooves that don't connect to one another one, and two don't join each side of the material together then the reverberation from the hammer through the material has no where to travel and dissipates instantly. If you have a solid block it's the same thing. That's exactly what hydraulic brakes do every time you get on them hard. It's thousands of pounds of pressure slamming into the rotor surface at speed. Now add the fact that some people get their rotors glowing red hot, meaning you could take hole punch and write your name into the surface. Then do the hammer process all over, see which one lasts....it think it's obvious at this point.
I'll stop here because there are a ton of papers out there ya'll just need to read and educate yourselves on before making claims of one is better then the other.
Ok. "High End Kits" doesn't mean sh*t to anyone who actually races or 'uses' their braking system to its fullest. It's all about heat, durability, material, and motion. The reason 80% of the "kits" out there offer them with drilled only is because
1. They look "hardcore"
2. By drilling a ton of holes it saves weight (thus removing mass from our "massive" brakes)
3. It's one of the 15 ways to cool brakes down.
ONE plain and simple fact is that every single rotor on the planet can crack. We've had it happen on Power Slot cryo rotors which are slotted, we've had it happen on ceramic 8k dollar Porsche brake systems, and i've seen it about 90% more often on the standard drilled brake setups of Porsche, Ferrari, S7's, Project Mu's, Brembo's Grand T kits, and so on and so forth.
The point is, is that Drilled rotors have the Ability to crack faster, easier, and with less abuse then the rest of the styles because of all the missing mass on the rotor surface itself, and because the holes go all the way through, thus weakening the structure all together. Especially when heat and pressure is applied. Think of a block of steel, if you drill a ton of holes through it, then repeatedly hit it with a sledge hammer, it will start to splinter and crack in sections and fall apart. If you slice a groove into it, it will start to splinter around that groove, and little chucks will fall off of the surface around the groove but only as deep as the groove is, and maybe a 5% chance that it will split in half where the groove is after enough hits. If you just put 'dimples' or small grooves that don't connect to one another one, and two don't join each side of the material together then the reverberation from the hammer through the material has no where to travel and dissipates instantly. If you have a solid block it's the same thing. That's exactly what hydraulic brakes do every time you get on them hard. It's thousands of pounds of pressure slamming into the rotor surface at speed. Now add the fact that some people get their rotors glowing red hot, meaning you could take hole punch and write your name into the surface. Then do the hammer process all over, see which one lasts....it think it's obvious at this point.
I'll stop here because there are a ton of papers out there ya'll just need to read and educate yourselves on before making claims of one is better then the other.
another thing that needs to be stated is that you will not experience cracking unless you drive your car on a road course very hard... and use your brakes very hard.
For the common daily driver owner I wouldnt worry about cracking rotors, not even on drilled ones.
n
For the common daily driver owner I wouldnt worry about cracking rotors, not even on drilled ones.
n
