AutoX Suspension set up
What Kekek said, plus:
Springs:
You can't lower the car much on stock shocks, because bump travel would be shortened. This could be done if the spring rates were very high, to limit travel, but then the stock damping would be beyond the range to control the spring. We realize there are "better"springs, but it's still a compromise, it be only maginally quicker than stock. Bottom line, a stock Evo with a set of half way decent coil-overs, would be faster on an AX course than your car with the all the mods done to it.
25mm rear sway bar:
With lowering springs you don't have enough front spring rate to control roll and dive. With a big rear bar the car will lift the inside rear wheel. Once the wheel is in unloaded the rear bar is ineffective. It would be better the use a smaller 23mm Cusco bar, or the hollow Hotchkiss bar. The OP also mentioned a 25mm frt bar, that would need a host of changes to keep the car's balance.
Classing:
Also as you noted, those mods would put you into classes where the car would be much less competive than running it stock, or a local street stock class. Fun is fine for a while, but no one likes losing with no chance to do well.
Kekek, Evolutionary, Warrtalon and myself have placed top 10 in the country in our respective classes of BSP, SM and STU (higher if Warr wasn't dragging the group down
), also see Evolutionary's car in the current Tirerack add. That's bragging, but it means we've tried or driven a lot of the suspension set-ups out there. I'm on my 6th or 7th round of spring rate refinement.
Springs:
You can't lower the car much on stock shocks, because bump travel would be shortened. This could be done if the spring rates were very high, to limit travel, but then the stock damping would be beyond the range to control the spring. We realize there are "better"springs, but it's still a compromise, it be only maginally quicker than stock. Bottom line, a stock Evo with a set of half way decent coil-overs, would be faster on an AX course than your car with the all the mods done to it.
25mm rear sway bar:
With lowering springs you don't have enough front spring rate to control roll and dive. With a big rear bar the car will lift the inside rear wheel. Once the wheel is in unloaded the rear bar is ineffective. It would be better the use a smaller 23mm Cusco bar, or the hollow Hotchkiss bar. The OP also mentioned a 25mm frt bar, that would need a host of changes to keep the car's balance.
Classing:
Also as you noted, those mods would put you into classes where the car would be much less competive than running it stock, or a local street stock class. Fun is fine for a while, but no one likes losing with no chance to do well.
Kekek, Evolutionary, Warrtalon and myself have placed top 10 in the country in our respective classes of BSP, SM and STU (higher if Warr wasn't dragging the group down
), also see Evolutionary's car in the current Tirerack add. That's bragging, but it means we've tried or driven a lot of the suspension set-ups out there. I'm on my 6th or 7th round of spring rate refinement.<<<Looks at bank account...still has along way to go for Ohlins. One question though is with stiffer springrates (say 8kr 10kr) the 25mm will help better?
Evolved Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 757
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From: VEGAS
then stay in the stock class and get some 275 v710s
youll be competitive in local stock classes depending on what the competition is like. but youll get ate up at nationals in AS.
if you want to be competitive at nationals bend over and open your wallet....
youll be competitive in local stock classes depending on what the competition is like. but youll get ate up at nationals in AS.
if you want to be competitive at nationals bend over and open your wallet....
