For the front springs, the inner diameter is 62mm with an outer diameter of 80mm.

We've tested thrust cylindrical bearings, and while they certainly help reduce noise and have a noticeable effect of reducing steering effort, they need to be kept out of the elements with some sort of boot.

FYI those needle roller bearings are available through McMaster-Carr DIRT CHEAP. Like around $5-10 total per corner.

Thanks for the info, how long do you think they'll last unprotected from the elements given there's no rain or snow? (basically i'll sandwich it between the KW top perch, and top helper spring).

If the needle bearings sieze up I'm thinking that it shouldn't be any worst than not having it in there (as it'll end up a fixed just like top perch).

Cheapest price for them seem to be from Speedway Motors

MotionIndustries basically had it for the same price except cheaping was cheaper at speedway.

I'll checkout mcmaster.

seriously if you are using the KW's and whiteline you dont need bearings. just a washer will do.

Thanks, I checked - the needle bearings they have only seem to be up to 55mm inner diameter.

Need it to be at least 62mm.

I Love my KW V3 coilover.. It have Hypercoil 8k/10k spring rates on it.. with Cusco Chamber plates... plus i do have stock Kw 12k spring rates..

It stiff as hell..

I wonder if i can sent my KW to Robispec to rebuild to KW V3 ROBI SPEC?

When you say Robispec KW's, which kind? He has a couple of models..

The Robispec Street version is supposed to use 7 kg/mm front, and 8 kg/mm rear.

Not sure what spring rates the Robispec ClubSport versions use but those are probably stiff as hell.

Why don't you try getting different springs first before sending them in? The KW's are supposed to be able to handle +/- 2 kg/mm without requiring a revalve (gotta dig that up somewhere) and you are well within that range (stock KW is 9 kg/mm front, and 6 kg/mm rear). Personally, i'd rather spend the money on getting the car corner balanced and properly aligned instead.