I put a new set of rotors and pads on my 05 Evo 8 DBA Rotors and Hawk HPS Pads a while back and ever since I put them on they have always had this wheel shaking but its not when they are cold its only when they get warmed up or hot. I checked all the pads and they are all lubed up good and the tires are all balanced (less then a week ago I balanced them) and it still is shaking but only when they are hot. If they are cold and I go say 50 mph and slow down they are fine.... until they warm up and they then start. And the hotter they get the more the wheel shakes. I can go well over 130 mph and my wheel stays fine no shaking no turning nothing. What can this be? Only thing I can think it would be is something to do with bleeding the brakes or warped rotors but they are still almost new. I will bleed the brakes this week or weekend and see if that helps. And I also see that the back rotors have a "lip" on them and the front rotors don't. Would this tell me that the back is getting more braking power then the front... and that gives me the thought to bleed the brakes again.


Let me know what you guys think. And what do you guys think a good brake fluid is to use. Or to Mix with the stock fluid.

 

RBF 600. Its expensive, but you will need 2 pints if you are careful when you bleed them. If you are not careful... get 3. I went thru a pint and a half. (But I used cheap fluid to fill the bleeding cups etc.)

Just installed the DBA 5000's up front, and 4000's rear. Hawk HPS pads, and SS lines. My wheel does not shake at all.

Also 05 8. Did you bed the pads in thru a series of smooth stops? It sounds like you didn't and the surface isn't ideal.

I maybe have <100 miles on them and do not have problems with shaking, or any noise whatsoever. I have even stopped from 110mph today (smoothly) without any issue.

I would bleed them just to be sure. As I had alot more wear on the front of my stock front rotors than the rear. (even tho the rear pads were more worn)

 

I have over 8000 miles on the rotors now any they still shake. When I first put them on I did 3 stops from 20 then 3 from 60 then 3 from 80 letting them cool each time between stops. The rotors are smooth and there is little to no lip on the front rotors. and a vary small lip on the rear rotors. i still need to bleed them havent got around to it since the brakers dont shake when I dd and only when they get hot so its not a big deal just something i want to look into.

 

did u bed the rotors like that??? rotors should be bedded back to back 60 to 0 stops as HARD AS U CAN about 12 times

 

Well I did the 20 60 and 80 and abs was kicking in and tires were cherping and thats about 9 times + I did it a few times on the way home.

 

hmm are ur rotors 2-piece?

 

nope 1 peace

 

i've heard of ppl warping they're rotors breakin em in... get some 2piece... they can handle anything u throw at em

 

that's the lip on a rotor mean?

 

Yea If i had the money for 2 peace I would get them but yea they cost a little to much for Daily Driving.

The Lip on a rotor is how much the rotor has been warn down from the pad eating away at it.

 

I have experienced a similar situation not with the evo but with another vehicle I built. The only way I solved the problem was to take everything back-apart have all the rotors turned, lightly scuff up the pads to clear any "glazing" then put it back together being very careful to keep the rotors nice and clean. Following the manufactures brake-in procedure EXACTLY. I spoke with many many brake experts willwood engineers etc, almost every person I spoke with said it happened during brake-in, and basically the rotors/pads were broke-in uneven, leaving "smooth spots" and "rough spots" and when the brakes get up to temp, it apparently makes a big difference.

I have never used abs to brake-in brakes before, but I would assume it is probably not good to in-gage abs B/C the nature of how abs works, there is momentarily lock ups causing an uneven brake-in on the rotors and pads. The system gets hot, and during lock up deposits extra friction material on the rotors during the momentary lock ups. I would bet this is what is causing the shaking.

It has been a while since since I went through all this brake business, but I recall hearing from a tech not to come to a complete stop with the brakes hot during brake in. I followed EBC's brake-in procedure, and it worked for me.

 

yea ill take em all apart and see

 

After replacing the OEM pads, I have the same problem.

I first noticed this when I got run off the interstate doing 80 by a car that wanted my spot on the road. I had to stop very short because there was an emergency crossover right ahead in the median. If I had hit it I would have been wrecked.

When I got back to speed it felt like a wheel weight had come off a front wheel. After about a mile of driving the vibration was gone. This has happened a couple of times since whenever I use the brakes hard.

I attribute this to brake material transferring to the rotor but that is just my theory.

 

what do you mean by your pads being lubed up? how do you lube up a pad?

dont understand how it could be brake fluid doing this to you... sounds like a warped rotor or pad build-up on rotor....

You should double check & make sure those 2 things are all ok.. if its not that im stumped.

n

 

This is a common occurence and is due to an uneven transfer layer from the pads. As indicated it will go away, in a few miles or when the car cools down , and will not come back until another heavy braking session.

I have felt this from Carbotech pads including Bobcats and Panther +'s ( 200SX SE-R ) but not from Axxiss Ultimates. Both times I went the cleaning route resurfacing but it came back. My current set of Bobcats on DBA 4000 rotors does do this now ( 3000 miles ) on my 05 MR.

By the way I had Carbotech bobcats specially made for my 2000 Ford Excursion TurboDiesel to help stop the beast when towing 9000 lbs. They stop the 7600 lb SUV and load much better than anything else I have tried. And they have never shown any vibration.

Milburn