Brake pad compatability...
Brake pad compatability...
Okay Brake veterans I am looking for a dedicated track pad.
however I need it to be;
-somewhat friendly to rotors.
-compatible with double use rotors...(ie street pads, and track pads)
-I am not planning on going past maybe a set of NT01s but am mainly on street tires
-I am putting on cooling ducts soon.
I have read and read and all I do is go in circles so I need experienced opinions.
however I need it to be;
-somewhat friendly to rotors.
-compatible with double use rotors...(ie street pads, and track pads)
-I am not planning on going past maybe a set of NT01s but am mainly on street tires
-I am putting on cooling ducts soon.
I have read and read and all I do is go in circles so I need experienced opinions.
hawk blue or ferodo DS3000.
what I'm doing is running Hawk HP+ on the rear (all the time) and swapping between the blues and HPS on the front. works well and I don't have to change as many pads. Last year I ran hawk HT-10s on the front and I didn't maximize them so I backed down to the blues this year.
I just placed an order with kyle (kingkyle) at hotlapmotorsports.com
he also sells a great brake duct kit I'm already running for a lot less than any other kits I've seen.
PS: my track tire is the NT-01
what I'm doing is running Hawk HP+ on the rear (all the time) and swapping between the blues and HPS on the front. works well and I don't have to change as many pads. Last year I ran hawk HT-10s on the front and I didn't maximize them so I backed down to the blues this year.
I just placed an order with kyle (kingkyle) at hotlapmotorsports.com
he also sells a great brake duct kit I'm already running for a lot less than any other kits I've seen.
PS: my track tire is the NT-01
Last edited by theblue; May 21, 2008 at 02:47 PM.
ferodo 2500s I should of put that up...
I could try 2 piece rotors and ducts to see if it controls the heat...
I really dont think that is going to cut it for me.
ya the blues are horrible... the dust is real bad.
I could try 2 piece rotors and ducts to see if it controls the heat...
I really dont think that is going to cut it for me.
ya the blues are horrible... the dust is real bad.
that would be the expensive way to solve a simple problem.... 2500 are more along the lines of an autoX pad or "my first track day"... not really a true track pad which is what you asked for.
wax your wheels (so the dust sticks to the wax and not the wheel) and wash them after each event and brake dust should come right off... it's the people who wait until the next day to wash them that pay the price.
wax your wheels (so the dust sticks to the wax and not the wheel) and wash them after each event and brake dust should come right off... it's the people who wait until the next day to wash them that pay the price.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
I agree with theblue.
I run HPS on the rear (my temps are near 400*F range - depending on the track). I switch to the HT10s the night or day before the track day. And drive nicely around the area and to the track to clean off the old pad material. As long as I stay under 300*F they will not be at temp. And act more like sandpaper than pads.
I will running new tracks next year. And I am planning on Kuhmo 710s right now. I will need to re-adjust the pad setup in my near future.
Hawk HT10s or 14s. The NT01 is just about a full slick track tire (almost Hoosier R6's). The DTC series is more of those sort of tires.
How much power do you have? In terms of how fast can you put speed down. I have a bit more power than theblue (trap 114-116 in the 1/4) - so I run the HT10s + the Hot Lap BDCK.
I run HPS on the rear (my temps are near 400*F range - depending on the track). I switch to the HT10s the night or day before the track day. And drive nicely around the area and to the track to clean off the old pad material. As long as I stay under 300*F they will not be at temp. And act more like sandpaper than pads.
I will running new tracks next year. And I am planning on Kuhmo 710s right now. I will need to re-adjust the pad setup in my near future.
Hawk HT10s or 14s. The NT01 is just about a full slick track tire (almost Hoosier R6's). The DTC series is more of those sort of tires.
How much power do you have? In terms of how fast can you put speed down. I have a bit more power than theblue (trap 114-116 in the 1/4) - so I run the HT10s + the Hot Lap BDCK.
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ya I trap 105....
how do you trap 115 with those mods!? jeez no cams even?
I just picked up another set of REO1rs today so I dont think ill be going to the NT01s anytime soon.
So strickly street tire for the rest of the year.
I am planing on a HLM brake duct kit though before the RTA at miller.
how do you trap 115 with those mods!? jeez no cams even?
I just picked up another set of REO1rs today so I dont think ill be going to the NT01s anytime soon.
So strickly street tire for the rest of the year.
I am planing on a HLM brake duct kit though before the RTA at miller.
Last edited by bchappy; May 23, 2008 at 07:10 PM.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Self-tuned to the hill 
HT series would be what I would run then. I am on the Dunlop Z1s - so just about the same tire. So a combo of HT1x/HP+(HPS for me) would be similiar to theblue and I.

HT series would be what I would run then. I am on the Dunlop Z1s - so just about the same tire. So a combo of HT1x/HP+(HPS for me) would be similiar to theblue and I.
PF97's are easy on rotors and thats what Nils runs. I'll be picking up a set before we go to Miller, and Gruppe S has them on their site for $150 (CHEAP!!!!) I talked to him, he said they mate really well with the PFC rotors we are using and dont eat them too fast.
PF01's are a tad more aggressive, and work really well too. Will go thru the rotor faster though.
I plan on getting the 97's and leaving my ds2500's in the rear, couple people are running this combo from what I read, and they like it. I plan on getting Forge or Kyles ducting soon too, but my calipers really havent gotten bad and I havent had any fade yet with the two piecers and 2500's.
We might need to retune you before miller, 105 trap isnt too good. We did go really conservative since you track alot though.
PF01's are a tad more aggressive, and work really well too. Will go thru the rotor faster though.
I plan on getting the 97's and leaving my ds2500's in the rear, couple people are running this combo from what I read, and they like it. I plan on getting Forge or Kyles ducting soon too, but my calipers really havent gotten bad and I havent had any fade yet with the two piecers and 2500's.
We might need to retune you before miller, 105 trap isnt too good. We did go really conservative since you track alot though.
PF01's i'd only recommend with R-comps. Good pads.
PF97's we're not able to get the rear pads anymore, so we haven't used them in a long time.
Pagid Yellows are our favorite for street tires. Very easy on the rotors and the pads last a while too. The Hawk HT's are nice too.
- Andrew
PF97's we're not able to get the rear pads anymore, so we haven't used them in a long time.
Pagid Yellows are our favorite for street tires. Very easy on the rotors and the pads last a while too. The Hawk HT's are nice too.
- Andrew
PF97's are easy on rotors and thats what Nils runs. I'll be picking up a set before we go to Miller, and Gruppe S has them on their site for $150 (CHEAP!!!!) I talked to him, he said they mate really well with the PFC rotors we are using and dont eat them too fast.
PF01's are a tad more aggressive, and work really well too. Will go thru the rotor faster though.
I plan on getting the 97's and leaving my ds2500's in the rear, couple people are running this combo from what I read, and they like it. I plan on getting Forge or Kyles ducting soon too, but my calipers really havent gotten bad and I havent had any fade yet with the two piecers and 2500's.
We might need to retune you before miller, 105 trap isnt too good. We did go really conservative since you track alot though.
PF01's are a tad more aggressive, and work really well too. Will go thru the rotor faster though.
I plan on getting the 97's and leaving my ds2500's in the rear, couple people are running this combo from what I read, and they like it. I plan on getting Forge or Kyles ducting soon too, but my calipers really havent gotten bad and I havent had any fade yet with the two piecers and 2500's.
We might need to retune you before miller, 105 trap isnt too good. We did go really conservative since you track alot though.
I dont care though I feel the car is strong. I think the car has a little to much boost for 30 minute sessions but who knows.
That was the pad I was looking at in the front, thats a good price!
Ill maybe try those out... If I dont like them its 150 bucks as opposed to me not liking a $300 purchase



