I'm about to change my brake fluid using a pressurizing bottle that sucks fluid out of each caliper. Do you guys know the order I should drain the fluid from the calipers? (I tried searching with no luck)

 

go the furthest from the brake pedal first.

that is, (left hand drive right?i am right hand drive)

Rear right, Rear Left, Front Right then Front Left.

 

What about inside or outside of each caliper?

 

lol i am at work...dont got much time...this should help, its not evo specific but same idea.

http://www.teamscr.com/brakes.htm

let me know if it helps

 

Very helpful thread, but they didn't mention if there's an inside/outside order for each caliper.

 

 

Thanks!

 

glad we can help let of know of the results!

you should take pics and document it for other EvoM members!

 

Good idea, will do in the next few days after I get my parts.

 

Just remember, don't pull the lines completely dry when bleeding, and also you may have to bleed the master cylinder if you pull the fluid level too low. I'd recommend bleeding one corner, check the master and fill if needed, bleed another corner, check the master, so on and so on. You're in for more trouble than you want if you pull too much out at once. Go nice and slow.

 

Thanks, this is exactly what I plan on doing. It'll be a one-man job.

 

One last question. I'll be bleeding my clutch at the same time, so can I just use the same process on the clutch bleeder valve as the caliper bleeder valve--suck fluid out of the bleeder with my pressurizing bottle while topping off the fluid container?

 

After the bleed..... Don't forget to pump your brakes until they are firm before you go out on the street.

 

Well, I just finished this job. Mityvac was a pain in the *** on the brakes (you literally had to pump this thing about 1000 times per bleeder to get the fluid out), so I called a friend over and we bled it the old fashion way of pumping the brake pedal. The only good thing Mityvac provided was sucking the fluid while you unhooked the draining tube from the caliper bleeder (as to not get any fluid leaking).





After taking the clutch restrictor out, I introduced a ton of air into the clutch cylinder, which Mityvac once again provided no use. No amount of pumping the Mityvac would suck anything out of the clutch bleeder---we did this for an hour before we gave up. We even tried the old fashion way, but the clutch would just fall and stick to the floor. I then ordered Motive Power Bleeder and had to wait a week, as recommended on these boards. Wow, this product worked amazingly. This is the opposite of Mityvac. Mityvac sucks, pun intended. Motive Power Bleeder blows pressure into the brake reservoir as well as adds in fluid at the same time so you can bleed at will on the other ends without having to worry about topping off the fluid. I should have spent the extra money to get this product to begin with ($65 at MachV after shipping).

Onto the road test. With the clutch restrictor out, the initial impression is that the clutch engages so much more predictably. It seems like the clutch engages lower on the pedal, but I'm guessing that's because I am so used to the delayed reaction of the clutch restrictor being in there, and causing me to feel the engagement a little higher. So far, shifts are good without much bucking action (when you don't rev match precisely). I'll test this and the new brake fluid bleed at the autocross tracks in a couple weeks where I'll be able to fully stress it better.

(sorry, I started taking pics in hopes of fully documenting this, but the task become very frustrating quick)

 

just quickly, its irrelevant whether its LHD or RHD, since the lines all run down the left hand side of the car...

at least thats what I have been told