^^That would awesome, I'd be down to get a set...

 

I'll talk to Mike in the morning and see if he wants to do this.

 

I have not ordered any yet, WOULD BE interested in the 4130 or Titanium ones if you do them, along with covers.

 

Well it isn't really on the wrong side (see fully assembled shots). When I had them loose in my living room it might look that way because they slide down to the end of the bolt.

I'm not sure you'd really save that much to going to titanium and I imagine the price would go through the roof. The aluminum hex stock that I used is very light and load rated well above what an endlink sees.

Does anybody think that $50+ for a few ounces is really worth it?

cheers

d

EDIT: The heaviest part, by far, is the heim joint, not the rod section.

 

OT... LMFAO at your signature

 

They should be on the outside to keep the assembly from pulling through, not on the inside per your assembled rear photo. It looks like you used them as spacers with the bolt head is against the ball. In a ball/race failure the retaining washer keeps the assembly together long enough to stop safely. You are right 4130 and Ti are overkill, but that is how I build parts. You used 3/8 rod ends, mine are 5/16 and are stronger than the 3/8, but 5x more expensive . You save it where you can, but a nice example and cost effective.

 

Ah. I see what you're saying now. Good point. I'll update the DIY section when I get a chance.


Yeah, you're right. In the end I think it comes down to what you need for the application. They have held up pretty well under hard driving (autocross and track days).

d

 

 

Sorry for the delay I'm flat out welding and fitting carbon. I will return the pm's on the boots and kits in the morning. Thanks, Indy

 

Stock work great. Why dick with something that is fine right out of the box?

 

Because you can not put the bar in an unloaded state when setting up the car. The car should be scaled with the driver in the seat and the bar unloaded, then after your done, with the driver in the seat you can adjust the link to have zero preload on the bar. This can be done with a OE strut/spring combo also.

 

^ If the car is dialed in when loaded why does it matter?

 

Because the bar will be loaded and you'll have more roll resistance one way than the other. Dialing it in this way (without adjusted links) will result in either

a) difference balance left vs. right.

or

b) more grip one way than the other

d

 

^^^ donour and Indy Evo are correct, the bar must be statically unloaded when mounting the links to not screw the left/right balance.

 

You really need only one adjustable link per side. I'm going to build some 2 link kits they will be 4130 teflon lined endlinks, boots, 4130 tubes, NAS aircraft hardware, retaining washers and the proper spacers and hat washers to do the job. They will be as shown in the photos, the best you can buy.