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Feedback requested: Fender brace design

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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 02:48 PM
  #16  
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Update

Thanks for the feedback guys.

After more driving, I am more certain that it makes a noticeable difference. I have not had clearance issues with my wheels, however my car is riding on a stock suspension. I also had to reshape the plastic inner fender and even now it does not seal perfectly on all edges.

If I can find the time, I think "version two" should probably be angled back (red line in pic) a few inches to clear the inner fender and lowered suspensions.



I hate to do this, because I suspect much of the strength of this design lies in how far forward that lower bar reaches.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #17  
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I would think you could just bring it back maybe a 1/2" on the top for more clearance. If you do not like version 1, I have no problem taking it off your hands!!
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #18  
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how about a curved pipe?
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:34 AM
  #19  
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Yea, curving the pipe might be better. It boils down to an engineering question.



Tubing bends are generally considered weaker (ie roll cages have restrictions on where you can bend) but reaching forward with the connection certainly is more desirable from a rigidity standpoint (better triangulation). I just don't know which factor is greater.

Any engineers reading?
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #20  
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break it down to 2 triangles with the soild support piece in the middle being your divider. bring your bottom brace bar to the red line and then you can angle the top one for even more reach, but you need to do a little math to see where the break down point is in your triangulation, simply put if you extend the top bar too long you start actualy loosing strength in the piece. i would say do that instead of bending, cause staight lines when dealing with metal gives you 2 clues about whatever your making, 1: that you have pretty close material thickness through the whole part, 2: fatigue, that if ur angles are off its less likely to hide fatigue by bending or twisting just under load
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 07:10 AM
  #21  
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Any updates?
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #22  
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I have not worked on new ones since installing them. At stock ride height this design does rub on near full compression. I have driven about a 1000 miles since installing these and here's what the inner fender looks like.




I re-shaped the stock fender liner with a heat gun to form fit the fender brace. I will probably do a redesign some day that clears a stock and lowered suspension. I am in between jobs right now so money is tight.

Last edited by binarysleep; Mar 3, 2009 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 09:58 AM
  #23  
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The benefits between a curved and truss beam depends on the loading condition. Do you have a picture of just your beam by itself apart from the vehicle?
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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:10 PM
  #24  
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Here's the picture cropped and rotated.



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Old Mar 6, 2009 | 03:32 PM
  #25  
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Also keep in mind that they are slightly angled and tilted toward the engine. Positive toe and negative camber

This approximates what I mean.

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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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updates?
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 03:52 PM
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??
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 06:07 PM
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Very nice work!
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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bump for updates!
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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yeah what happened to this? based on the review from the people with fender brace it helps a lot stiffening up the front part of the car.
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