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Question regarding understeer and throttle input (or loss of)

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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:43 AM
  #16  
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From: SL,UT
Originally Posted by SOEX
It's pushing when power is applied. And not even to the point of breaking traction, it just starts to change my line where I'm turning and have to turn more to keep going the same direction. Keep in mind I have not started to slide here, it's really not even too close to the limits.

The time it wants to spin is if I take my foot off the throttle for a decreasing radius turn. Say I go from med throttle to no throttle during a turn like that, it'll completely change my direction and feel like I'm going to spin. It almost twists the car it feels like. But I would say it's definitely not initiated from the back end. It feels like it's the front of the car that is causing the unbalance.

So hard to describe, but would be so easy to demonstrate.
If it really isn't even breaking traction, it is a mix of driver error, and driver just not being used to the car. And I had one of my students spin in his Evo from slamming the brakes. med throttle to no throttle instantly is a pretty fast movement for a track, especially in a decreasing radius corner. Do that in my car and you'll spin so fast you'll be back in time. The Evo, while fast, is a very heavy car, sorry, but it's the truth. And the fact is that with all that weight rocking around on the stock coilovers you're going to have a lot of problems if you aren't perfectly smooth.

From you saying the above, I'd have to say it narrows down to driver issues. Coilovers will likely help a lot though.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #17  
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^^^^^ +1. Coilovers will help but again it seems the underlying problem is driver error. Which we all have made so I hope you don't think i am trying to pick on you by saying it so much because i have definitely made more than my fair share of errors, one resulted in me being in a ditch facing the other direction from where i was going. So you are not alone. As I said before take a step back and look at your driving more objectively and see where you could improve. If that doesn't seem to help. Shoot make a video and some of the more experienced guys can point out almost exactly where you need improvement. And they can also tell you what the car is doing and where your car could use improvement also. I hope this helps.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:14 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SOEX
The problem is understeer while adding throttle. Seems like the more power I add, the more sever the car starts to track outwards. And when go from adding power to either letting off the throttle or braking it will tighten up (and when braking it'll actually get even tighter!). It's not just a little, it's a lot. To the point where I'm moving the steering wheel about 5 degrees to compensate for the direction change. It also upsets the stability of the car, which scares me. If I push too hard and make any mistake, it feels like it's going to spin. Things like decreasing radius turns make me worry, and so I won't push it. SOEX
I think you might benefit from optimizing your alignment settings and tire pressure. Otherwise it is a good idea to explore the car's reaction to different driver input and driving technique. Let the car take a set when approaching the corner, accelerate smoothly towards a late apex and nail it upon exiting. Technnique for slalom would be different and I am sure that many a collegue here would be able to provide excellent related info.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:47 PM
  #19  
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Yeah, I'm not above knowing that I could be a better driver. I really don't have any serious experience.

I've just never had a car or driven a car that has behaved this way, so I didn't know if it was normal or something wrong with my car.

Thanks for the input everyone, I'm sure I'll get things figured out as I have more experience with the car and put it in different situations.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 01:39 AM
  #20  
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No problem. Its the normal act of progression really. Everyone progresses with time and so will you. Glad to help. If you need any other help don't be afraid to ask. Oh and have fun.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 02:25 AM
  #21  
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+1 with the ppl saying SMOOTH!

A little physics -

If you enter a corner and start to brake (or let off the throttle quickly - AKA, a technique used in drifting called a "Kansei Drift") it will push the weight of the car to the front wheels and the rear wheels will lose some of their ability to grip the tarmac. This means oversteer. Do it fast enough, and it means a spin.

If you enter a corner and apply gas, two things will happen: 1) weight will shift to the rear under the acceleration and take traction away from the front, and 2) since there is reduced traction in the front (the wheels that steer), you will not be able to steer. This means understeer.


Evos tend to push coming out of a corner because they are FWD-biased AWD systems - almost 60% of the power goes to the front on a good day.

BUT! Evos love straight-aways! If you want to go faster, think of it this way:

The straighter the wheels are, the more power you can apply to them.

So... as you come to a corner brake to the corner speed. When you enter the corner, keep the car ROLLING - a little gas to make it seem like the car's in neutral. When you get to the sharp inside of the corner (the apex), proportionately roll on the throttle as you unwind the steering wheel to dead straight. As the wheels become straight, give 'em hell!


If none of this helps or is just repetitive, buy some Ohlins coilovers (I'm savin' up!)
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 04:59 AM
  #22  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Originally Posted by adamweldonjohns
Evos tend to push coming out of a corner because they are FWD-biased AWD systems - almost 60% of the power goes to the front on a good day.
Good up to here. Its 50/50 locked.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...everybody.html

Last edited by Smike; Jan 31, 2009 at 05:07 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 12:47 PM
  #23  
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^^^ awesome article! I remember reading somewhere like Road and Track or something when the evo came out that they said something like 60% front tq, so I was probably wrong

OT, but did I read it right - I've got a IX, so power can be up to a 50/50 split? I love my car - I just learn new things about it every day!
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 01:33 PM
  #24  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
D. How the Tarmac/Gravel/Snow switch influences the ACD

Despite popular belief, this switch DOES NOT change the torque split. The differential is geared at 50:50 and cannot be changed by the push of a button. What this switch actually does is quite simple. Each setting determines how long the ACD will delay in freeing the center differential after a steering input is made. In addition, it will determine how much locking force the ACD will exhibit on the clutch pack and center differential. (10) (11)
Not up to - its locked at.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 03:46 PM
  #25  
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I'm sorry, but our cars are way cool!
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 05:17 PM
  #26  
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From: SL,UT
What? I thought it always varied the torque split! That just rocked my world! So it is always locked 50/50? Rather than... like... the GTR or the G35/G37xs that actually vary the split?
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 02:15 AM
  #27  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Yeppers Its locked via gearing.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 08:00 AM
  #28  
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So, theoretically speaking of course, if one was to either buy or engineer a different geared center diff. the torque split could be changed correct??? Or at least altered in a way more favorable for racing?
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 08:29 AM
  #29  
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From: Boisex
I would be careful getting to caught up in this 50/50 torque split thing. Granted our cars center diff always splits the AVAILABLE torque 50/50 out of the center diff but that doesnt mean that there isnt a bias at the front tire based on the action of the front/rear differentials.
So to clarify what adamweldonjohns said and how _I_ interpreted what he said, yes there could easily (and often is) a 60% _bias_ to the front (when the rears are only putting down 40% of the available torque).
This is why the TRE rear diff works, better lock in the rear brings bias back to the rear, although never over 50% of AVAILABLE torque.
Correct?

Last edited by brian94ht; Feb 1, 2009 at 08:33 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 08:35 AM
  #30  
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You are correct. But one thing to remember is that the 50/50 split may be from available torque the argument of 60% 50% will always be debated but it always comes down to this, the gearing is set @ approx 50/50 cant be changed, UNLESS a different gearing was used in the center diff.
Mike help me out here, i think i am digging a hole lol.
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