LI Pinky

iTrader: (15)

What a great way to add value to the forum. I had heard about the rear suspension on the evo's (8 and 9) But never fully understood until I read this!! GREAT POST!

Can't wait to read more!

RaNGVR-4

iTrader: (4)

Id say go with 10k 12k, or a big rear bar. but the 12k rear will be better than running a big bar.

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

^+1

And a pair of springs is less expensive than a big rear bar.

Next update I might make some pretty pictures.

Thanks for the kind words everyone, i'm glad people are reading this stuff.

- Andrew

SICK9

iTrader: (36)

I have the Perrin 25mm rear sway on there already.
Does this make any difference?

timmiii

iTrader: (3)

I <3 gtworx

RaNGVR-4

iTrader: (4)

Youre gonna be 3 wheelin. I personally stick to the "don't take away grip in the rear, just add more to the front" thought process.

Id still go with stiffer in the rear, but for the time being, you can definately see how the car drives on 10k 10k. Still gonna be a bit pushy

SICK9

iTrader: (36)

I have it on the middle setting right now with the perrin stout mounts and perrin adjustable end links.

Would moving it to the softer or harder setting help me out any with this particular spring rate? and keep me from tripoding?

thx so much for all you guys input...
It's nice to finally kind of understand what all is at play here.

kekek

iTrader: (22)

Tripoding is due mostly to the front end being too soft (pitch & roll) for a given grip level. The stiffer rear swaybars will make the rear suspension less independent. The combination of these 2 things create the tripod effect.

10/12 will create a stable, relatively fun car to drive. 10/10 will def be pushy. With the rear swaybar it will have a greater tendency to slide. To get the most out of it with the rear bar you have to be comfortable with constantly sliding the car. At least that has been my experience with autoxing evo's on street tires with rates in that range.

Personally I prefer the softer rear bar and loosen the rear with alignment settings. This is after you've done what you can to increase front grip (proper ride height and alignment).

SICK9

iTrader: (36)

I'll see how it goes with the 10/10 for now, and play with the rear setting.
I can always get a new set of 12k springs later on.
They are pretty cheap for just the springs.

My personal preference- I would rather the rear slide out just a "bit", than to push out with the front.
I'll try it and see what happens.
thx.

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

thank-you for your detailed explaination of this its like you wrote it for me

kekek

iTrader: (22)

The springs themselves are cheaper than a bar, but it's more work to swap them and you will need an alignment after the spring swap.

dbsears

iTrader: (37)

I have the Perrin also on the middle setting. With Swifts, RE01Rs, aggressive alignment, and bushings I still lift an inside wheel at the autoX sometimes. I can even get it to tripod on some wide onramps...would really like to fix that. Plus is puts additional wear on the rear diff.

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Not in the rear as long as you don't change ride height. . . . but front - yes. . .


Although this is taking things off topic - I just want to touch on it real quick. Maybe we'll start a new thread. Personally I don't think there is anything wrong with lifting the inside rear wheel off the ground, as long as your car handles fine. All autocross EVOs I know do it at some point. And there have been a lot of EVOs that have won a lot of championships. . . . heck my old silver daily driver did it to the point where even turning a tight corner while decellerating it would do it. . . . and it handled beautifully on the streets as well as the track. . .

getsideways

iTrader: (18)

That extra contact patch would be better served on the ground rather then flailing in the air trying to fly,,,

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

Good info, thanks!