Ok, so my passenger side front brakes sound terrible and have for a few days. I have new rotors and pads on the way- as they need changed anyway, but is there a chance it could be something with the caliper?

The sounds is almost as if I have no pad at all left, but I do... And it even continues to make noise when I'm just driving and not applying the brakes. I was told it could be that one of the sliders is stuck?

I don't know much about brakes other than pads and rotors, so this slider thing got me confused.

Any idea?

 

something must be stuck up in there somewhere..... maybe a rock behind a heat shield or something?

 

eww i had that, ended up being a rock in the brake pad... who knows how it got there lol

 

i dont know man on my old car my brakes and rotors were toast and when i drove the car it sounded like an airplane was landing lol. change it first and if it still has the same noise then it might be the caliper.

 

mine was the heat shield had bent (well not magically on it's own, I did it) and was touching the rotor. No major damage, but it sounded like my car was going to fall apart.

 

yeah it sounds realllll ghetto, I'll take a look at it tonight. Thanks guys!

 

So I took the pads out and found the problem. The outside pad still had a TAD left, but the inside was shattered and gone completely!!! The inside of the rotor is fubarrred. I cleaned everything off and put what was left back and wanted to test it... But aparently there's air in my brake line- I took off the brake line becuase I was going to take off the rotor and ended up not- so now I have air in the brake line and need to bleed it out... I've just never done it before. Do I have to do it for all of the calipers 2 bleeder valves on each? Or can I just do the two on the caliper I was working on?

I guess I'm just not sure how to get the air out without getting brake fluid all over? I saw the tutorial to fully bleed your brakes- but all I want to do is get the air out of the line.

 

First, you don't have to disconnect any hoses to pull the rotor. You can set the caliper up on the suspension - maybe wire it there so it won't fall.

For bleeding use a piece of vacuum hose on the end of the bleeder. Open bleeder - pedal down, close bleeder - pedal up. It is a two person job. When you have a steady stream of fluid, the air is out. You may also immerse the end of the hose in some brake fluid and watch for bubbles. Don't run the master cylinder dry or you will be starting all over.

 

There is a specific order to bleeding the brakes. I can't find it right now, but someone will chime up with it. You only crack the top nipple, never the bottom.

Looks like you're going to need pads and rotors. I suggest getting stainless brake lines and flushing the brake fluid while you're there.

 

Check the DIY section on how to bleed your brakes. It's in there.

 

yeah I found the order, but if there isn't much air in there and I only had the line off for a few minutes- could I just bleed the two valves on the caliper I worked on? Or is it essential I do the entire system?

 

Do the whole system. You should bleed your brakes every time you change pads anyway. And you should flush the whole system every couple of years or so.

This should be a lesson to other people on here. Don't assume that just because the outside pad isn't gone it means the inside pad isn't gone.

 

Seen this is quite a few EVOS all on the OEM Brembos

 

OK, and yes VERY true... The outside pad looked fine- low, but fine- little did I know the inside had completely shattered and the rotor completely rocked...

 

Mine didn't make it quite that far, but when I pulled my front pads the inner one was about half as thick as the outer pad.