I recently installed drill/slotted rotors with new hawk pads and some stainless lines.

For some reason my brake pedal is very very mushy. I have bleed and rebleed the lines. I have put 2 bottles of motel 600 through the damn brakes and cannot get a firm pedal.

Does anyone have any ideas whats up??

I have checked for leaks on the new lines. I do not see any wet fluid near where the lines connect.

 

what pads did you use? if you are using track style pads the pedal will feel squishy untill they heat up.

if not try bleeding with superblue so you can be sure you are getting fresh fluid and removing all air to all corners

 

Did you bleed both ports? There is an inside and outside bleeder.

 

Yea i had the same problem this weekend i somehow managed to no notice the second bleeder on the inside. Once i bleed these everything was great.

 

I only bleed the outside ones. Ill have to bleed the inside bleeder tonight..

Im using HAWK HPC pads.

I saw the inside bleeder but didnt bleed it. I'll give that a try with some super blue.

 

motul > super blue

But make sure you bleed in the right order or else you'll still have air in there. I can't find the order diagram, but it's not quite as intuitive as you'd think.

 

its the inside ones, i had the same thing, bleeed the inside and she was money

 

This order?

 

no offense to the op but i dont think someone that doesnt even know to bleed the inside and outside bleeder of a caliper is going to to be driving in a situation were he will even register a difference in using motul over super blue. save some money, super blue is half the price pluse it helps with bleeding and they make an amber color one with the same specs you can use to bleed the brakes at the next interval to make sure you have fresh fluid again. all he did with the first 2 botlles of 600 is waste 30 bucks


jeff

 

your right, i did waste 30 dollars, and my car is street driven not driving on the track. so it doesnt matter to me. Factory fluids will work also.

and BTW, if you read the install guides, none say you need to bleed the valve on the inside.

 

The factory service manual says you need to bleed the inside nipples. For each corner, you bleed the outside first, then the inside. The wheel station bleed order you have shown above is correct. RR, LF, LR, then RF.

Also, what I've noticed is that the pedal gets more mushy as your pad wears down. You have more fluid in your caliper to make up for the thinning pads. For the longest time I couldn't figure out why. I kept bleeding with no luck. Then I changed pads and the problem went away.

 

It does, try again. http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html

 

What name brand of slotted rotors are you using?

 

I went with Rotorpros Drilled/Slotted Rotors, and Hawk HPS pads, and tenique (spelling?) lines..

Once I get the fluid bleed correctly tonight, the brakes should be feeling really good.

Front RotorPro = 20lbs
Rear RotorPro = 17lbs

Front Stock Brembo Rotor = 19lbs
I didnt weight the rear.

 

That's the link I was looking for thanks!