Searched around a bit for more info on this but couldnt find the info i was looking for so here we go.
a little background:
Bought my car from a friend a month ago who maintained it very well but put some hard track miles on it. It had Ferodo DS2500's installed for street pads. They were super loud and squealed horribly even when warmed up. I decided that they must have been worn a bit so based on reviews on this site I ordered the girodisc "magic pads" for street duty.
I installed the pads a couple days ago using permatex extreme temp(purple) lube and a little brake quiet on the backing plates, edges and where the spring touches the pads. Install was a breeze and checked everything twice. bedded in the pads using the recommended procedure(3 stops from 30-10,let cool,3 stops from 50-10 leave overnight).Pads were initally slightly squeeky but less so then the fereodos.
Now over the last few days of driving around the pads have gone from slightly loud to downright annoying(loud squeel at every stop).
Will they get quiter over the next while or could this be an issue relating to another part of the braking system(rotors look fine?).
Sorry for the novel...just pretty amazed that they are so loud
a little background:
Bought my car from a friend a month ago who maintained it very well but put some hard track miles on it. It had Ferodo DS2500's installed for street pads. They were super loud and squealed horribly even when warmed up. I decided that they must have been worn a bit so based on reviews on this site I ordered the girodisc "magic pads" for street duty.
I installed the pads a couple days ago using permatex extreme temp(purple) lube and a little brake quiet on the backing plates, edges and where the spring touches the pads. Install was a breeze and checked everything twice. bedded in the pads using the recommended procedure(3 stops from 30-10,let cool,3 stops from 50-10 leave overnight).Pads were initally slightly squeeky but less so then the fereodos.
Now over the last few days of driving around the pads have gone from slightly loud to downright annoying(loud squeel at every stop).
Will they get quiter over the next while or could this be an issue relating to another part of the braking system(rotors look fine?).
Sorry for the novel...just pretty amazed that they are so loud
Evolving Member
I did the exact same thing this weekend (MagicPads, high-temperature anti-sieze on the back of the pads and high-temp silicone on the shim where it contacts the pads).
I also used the bedding procedure below off the StopTech website (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml). The front right squealed a bit on the first four or so hard stops, but now it's dead quiet. I did two of the bedding cycles.
* * *
Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential.* Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can.* If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even if you've purchased a brand new car, you should set aside some time to bed the brakes in by following the instructions below.* Proper bedding will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors.* For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In.
Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power.* Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed.* Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or 'green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
I also used the bedding procedure below off the StopTech website (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml). The front right squealed a bit on the first four or so hard stops, but now it's dead quiet. I did two of the bedding cycles.
* * *
Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential.* Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can.* If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even if you've purchased a brand new car, you should set aside some time to bed the brakes in by following the instructions below.* Proper bedding will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors.* For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In.
Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power.* Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed.* Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or 'green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
yea the procedure i followed for bedding is very similar to that...i have used this to bed pads on various cars (mild to race) and have never had a problem.....so idk why they are so loud for me....could it be wear somewhere else in the system?
Evolving Member
The only other thing I'd check is to make sure your anti-squeal shim is centered in the caliper. If it's contacting the side of the caliper (instead of just the pads and cross bars) I would guess that could make it squeal if there is metal-to-metal contact there.
The only other thing it sounds like I did differently is I had to take some fluid out of the resevior, but I cannot imagine how that would be responsible for squealing.
The only other thing it sounds like I did differently is I had to take some fluid out of the resevior, but I cannot imagine how that would be responsible for squealing.
Evolved Member
I was having really bad squealing issues no matter what I did; shims, lube, etc. Turns out it was my rotors since there was a small lip forming. I installed new rotors and they've been perfectly silent ever since!
My advice: buy new rotors or have your current ones resurfaced for ~$10/each.
My advice: buy new rotors or have your current ones resurfaced for ~$10/each.
Evolving Member
My girodisc pads squealed pretty bad for the first couple thousand miles, then the squealing went away.
You guys need to follow the bedding instructions specifically for the magic pads.
http://girodisc.com/pdf/Installation.pdf
I just finished doing them on my car and not one squeak and they brake great now.
http://girodisc.com/pdf/Installation.pdf
I just finished doing them on my car and not one squeak and they brake great now.
Evolving Member
After 130 miles on the (once queit) new pads, they are beginning to squeal loudly under light braking.
Evolving Member
When switching pad compounds, it is recommended that new rotors be used or at least the old ones cut if they can be. I installed new rotors with the magic pads that i ordered and they did squeal pretty annoyingly for the first 3-4 days or so, then ever since, it's been super-quiet and no brake dust!
Account Disabled
I've noticed that below freezing they will squeal a bit. Above 40 deg they allmost never squeel. I have about 10K miles on them and my friend has even more with same results. We both run stock rotors but all four were turned.
yea im thinking it might be the rotors....i am planning on switching the pf rotors on the car for some resurfaced brembo blanks....we will see if this helps