Coilovers
Coilovers
Okay here is the deal.. I just got my EVO on less then a week ago and I already want to start in on the mods....
First I want to get some type of coilovers. I have had lowering springs on my other cars but they don't allow for the flexibility of coils... But here is my issue: I live in New england so I can't get something with cheap quality (rust factor) and also I want it to keep a very similar ride as stock for my daily driver....
I have searched the posts and websites and I some poeples opinions that currently own coil overs....
Which brand, how much and where do I get them????
Thanks for the help everyone....
First I want to get some type of coilovers. I have had lowering springs on my other cars but they don't allow for the flexibility of coils... But here is my issue: I live in New england so I can't get something with cheap quality (rust factor) and also I want it to keep a very similar ride as stock for my daily driver....
I have searched the posts and websites and I some poeples opinions that currently own coil overs....
Which brand, how much and where do I get them????
Thanks for the help everyone....
I don't own any coilovers for the EVO yet, but have spent some time researching this issue.
Given the objective you stated in your post, I would probably suggest looking into the Tein SS. They have the lowest spring rates from all aftermarket units I came across and from what I heard the ride is similar to stock. All others will ride significantly harsher than stock. Also, I am not 100% on this but they might be teflon coated which helps to alleviate your rust concern (I know the Flex are)
Given the objective you stated in your post, I would probably suggest looking into the Tein SS. They have the lowest spring rates from all aftermarket units I came across and from what I heard the ride is similar to stock. All others will ride significantly harsher than stock. Also, I am not 100% on this but they might be teflon coated which helps to alleviate your rust concern (I know the Flex are)
Zeals.
Zeals are awesome at retaining ride comfort, yet are able to perform extremely well on the track.
I have a set of Zeal S6's 12k/8k on my ITR, and it's perfectly fine on 4/5 dampening setting (1 soft-6stiff).
However, it's all opinion.
Zeals are awesome at retaining ride comfort, yet are able to perform extremely well on the track.
I have a set of Zeal S6's 12k/8k on my ITR, and it's perfectly fine on 4/5 dampening setting (1 soft-6stiff).
However, it's all opinion.
I have the JIC FTL-2As on my car and have ridden in a car equipped with the Tein SS coilovers. If you're just looking for an adjustable, close to stock set up, I'd recommend the Tein SS setup. The were adjustable from below stock stiffness to somewhat above stock stifness and seemed to have a bit less body roll.
They seemed to be a really nice set-up designed for street use. My JICs are rock hard. I like them (and use them on the track), but I wouldn't describe them as street friendly.
They seemed to be a really nice set-up designed for street use. My JICs are rock hard. I like them (and use them on the track), but I wouldn't describe them as street friendly.
I have JIC FLT-A2s and they are bad ***! Get them tuned right and you'll be on your way! They cost anywhere from $1500 - $2000 depending on where you get them. Install (if you don't do it yourself) will cost around $200 at any local shop.
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Things to consider when choosing coil-overs include things like the number and location of adjustments -- e.g. are the ride adjustments accessible without putting the car on a lift? Does it use a combined "ride" adjustment, or are there separate impact and rebound adjustments?
Also, many brands are made for different surfaces - track, gravel, street.
The struts may be oil type or gas type. I'm old enough to remember the early "gas shocks", so I went with oil type. (DMS). But I noticed that the DMS struts, when starting out wtih the struts at New England mid-winter temps, were stiffer than normal until they bounced over a couple of bumps. (The oil gets thicker when very very cold.) I don't know if gas struts experience the same effect. (It's just nice to have the suspension set so precisely that you can feel the difference.)
If you're planning to lower, than get camber plates as well, since changing the ride height will throw the camber off, and you have to compensate either at the steering knuckle or at the top plate (camber plate) or both. Check if the strut kit has adjustments at the steering knuckle attachment.
Also, many brands are made for different surfaces - track, gravel, street.
The struts may be oil type or gas type. I'm old enough to remember the early "gas shocks", so I went with oil type. (DMS). But I noticed that the DMS struts, when starting out wtih the struts at New England mid-winter temps, were stiffer than normal until they bounced over a couple of bumps. (The oil gets thicker when very very cold.) I don't know if gas struts experience the same effect. (It's just nice to have the suspension set so precisely that you can feel the difference.)

If you're planning to lower, than get camber plates as well, since changing the ride height will throw the camber off, and you have to compensate either at the steering knuckle or at the top plate (camber plate) or both. Check if the strut kit has adjustments at the steering knuckle attachment.
Wow... Great info guys... I was thinking of going with the Tien's for hte money and for an everyday driver they seem to do the trick... (To change the ride hieght do I have to jack the car for these???
How are the HKS?
DGS --- Camber plate??? I kind of new to the world of the EVO so could you help to explain this better... I'm really trying to figure out what is the best everyday driver coil overs....
Are coil overs better then Springs and Why?
How are the HKS?
DGS --- Camber plate??? I kind of new to the world of the EVO so could you help to explain this better... I'm really trying to figure out what is the best everyday driver coil overs....
Are coil overs better then Springs and Why?
Originally posted by GranMassaX
when I get mine, I'm gonna go with Tien and then get the EDFC so I can adjust everything from inside my car
when I get mine, I'm gonna go with Tien and then get the EDFC so I can adjust everything from inside my car
the EDFC only lets you adjust the shocks from inside the car ,not the ride height, and thus, not "everything"
Originally posted by EVONation
DGS --- Camber plate??? I kind of new to the world of the EVO so could you help to explain this better... I'm really trying to figure out what is the best everyday driver coil overs....
Are coil overs better then Springs and Why?
DGS --- Camber plate??? I kind of new to the world of the EVO so could you help to explain this better... I'm really trying to figure out what is the best everyday driver coil overs....
Are coil overs better then Springs and Why?
On a MacPherson strut suspension, the bottom of the steering knuckle mounts on a ball joint on the lower "A" arm. The upper part of the steering knuckle bolts rigidly to the bottom of the MacPherson strut. The top of the strut is mounted at the top of the strut tower, and the bottom of the strut turns when you turn the steering wheel.
The camber of the wheel is determined by the angle where the strut bolts to the steering knuckle and the distance between the top and bottom of the strut. On the stock suspension, the strut tower mount is fixed, and the attachment at the steering knuckle has two selections (-1 and -2 deg camber).
When you lower the car, the camber changes. You can compensate by some form of adjustment where the strut attaches to the steering knuckle, or by adjusting the mounting point of the strut top inboard or outboard, relative to the stock mounting point.
A camber plate is like the strut top mount, except that it lets you shift the strut top off the center of the plate to adjust camber.



