Nollij,
Guillaume & I pressed in your bushings at my house last night.

To Rick,

Since I've never met you, let me preface: I'm not attacking you. I'm simply making sugggestions as to how you can improve your product.

The way your plates come from you, they are not compatible with the PSS9 shocks. To say you have to buy this other part from this other company is fine, but your plates + PSS9 shocks does not equal working suspension. Just trying to save someone else from assuming that they can throw these on PSS9's on Thursday night, get aligned Friday, and go racing on Saturday. That is not the case, and the reason why I took the time to come here and post.

I love the thicker plates. I've bent a set of thin plates and I wasn't jumping my car (well... maybe the curbing) ANYWAY: I really like the camber, caster adjustment of your plates.

The radiused support for the countersunk fastener is a no-no. To me it says either you're not an Engineer or you had a ball nosed end mill...and it was easier to make a linear pass on a manual mill rather than machine the correct chamfer. FEA what you've built, it'll literally scream at you.

 

No offense taken.

AFAIK, no plates fit the PSS9s with out changing out the more common smaller nut. We now stock the larger nuts for PSS9 users - No extra cost!

Rick

 

the issue with the high pressure area under the fastener is that it will loosen under cyclical loading.

As you load the fastener in tension it compresses (or as Nucci and I like to say, "MUSHES") the material under the head out of the way. This generates an indent in the aluminum. When the load is removed from the fastener (or just reduced) there is now a clearance (gap) instead of an applied clamping load. This will make the fastener seem to "randomly" loosen itself.

This will happen until the head of the counterbored fastener mushes the rest of the aluminum out of the way and makes a proper tapered seat for itself.

 

We now have revised the counterbore to be stonger, plates are guaranteed for life against breakage

Thanks,

Rick

 

Thanks Rick,

General question... if you have these at 6 degrees caster, how far does the center of the wheel move back towards the doors (away from the front bumper?) Trying to figure out where the wheel is going to be with the Perrin PSRS & these.

Thanks

 

The Tein top nuts worked great for the Bilstein PSS9s. The plates look great and the car is feeling pretty good with all of the new suspension mods put on it (Ciro plates, Bilstein PSS9s, RCA, bushings, bumpsteer correction).

Unfortunately I have not been able to put everything to the test as it has been raining out. I definitely notice a significantly better response on my turn in but unfortunately due to the wet roads, I don't want to put the corner exit response to the test.

Hopefully it will be sunny for the last AutoX of the season.

 

I did a rough CAD layout, and at 6deg caster the wheel would move rearward ~ .165"

Rick

 

Thank you Rick!

 

Yes, we retested the fit on my PSS9s, the provided shaft spacers and optional 14mm x1.5 nuts work well. Ciro Design Racing now stocks both size struts nuts for customers.

Good luck at your next race. I dialed in some more front neg camber and did well last Sunday, besting some national champs and top street tire drivers at this year's nats.
http://members.quixnet.net/free2000/cscc092511pax.html

Rick

 

^ Jeez, can you say that your region is stacked???

 

sorry to bring this back from the dead, but has anyone come up with any good/easy ideas to mark these to say have two settings to switch between?

these will more than likely be the plates i run, but in planning ahead i might look to be able to switch between two camber settings and dont want to just scratch a line on them or something stupid lol.

 

Scratching a line is what most do... or use an engraver or lay down some tape and use a marker...

Whatever works best for you... main problem is the toe change that accompanies any camber change

best of luck and let us know what you came up with

 

Just to clarify what c2m said, unlike Subarus and BMWs, the Evo's tie rods are behind the front wheels. On other cars when they have a race and street setting, the race position is set with some toe-out to help turn-in. Then they decrease the neg camber until the toe is zero, for the street setting.

On an evo more neg camber causes more toe-in. So if you set your race setting for toe-out or zero, a less neg camber "street"setting would have even more toe out. Toe wears tires much much more than camber. So just run zero toe, and with aggressive driving, the tires should wear evenly. Also rotate front to rear if you have the same offset wheels. That said you can us a Sharpie to mark the 2 setting. Also look at the caster plate pdf on our web site, for advise on how to set the plates to optimize the suspension geometry for optimal roll center, and for maximum tire clearance.

Rick

 

These are on my list as the next thing to buy Thanks for the awesome product

 

Bump... just found this thread while looking for the Torrington bearing information. Just reminded of how happy I am with these plates Thanks for a great product Rick! Let us all know when you do the front swaybar mounts