Alignment Done - #'s posted. Toe question
Alignment Done - #'s posted. Toe question
Hey guys,
Just bought a new set of tires so I went ahead and got an alignment done. This was my first alignment done since I bought the car and I have 42,000 miles now.

Before:
Camber:
LF- 3/4
RF- 1 5/8
LR- 1 3/8
RR - 1/2
Toe:
Front 0
Rear 0
They went ahead and put this on my car.

After:
Camber:
LF- 3/4
RF- 3/4
LR- 3/4
RR- 3/4
Toe:
Front- IN 1/16
Rear- IN 1/16
What do you guys think of my before and after? The only thing that worries me is the toe. It feels good on the highway, but I don't want my tires to last only a few thousand miles. I know 0 Toe would be optimal, but how long do you think I can last with proper 3k tire rotation/balancing?
Car feels good though. Drove on freeway with no vibration/steering and the car felt way better then it used too. I would definitely recommend these guys if anyone needs an alignment done in San Diego.
Just bought a new set of tires so I went ahead and got an alignment done. This was my first alignment done since I bought the car and I have 42,000 miles now.

Before:
Camber:
LF- 3/4
RF- 1 5/8
LR- 1 3/8
RR - 1/2
Toe:
Front 0
Rear 0
They went ahead and put this on my car.

After:
Camber:
LF- 3/4
RF- 3/4
LR- 3/4
RR- 3/4
Toe:
Front- IN 1/16
Rear- IN 1/16
What do you guys think of my before and after? The only thing that worries me is the toe. It feels good on the highway, but I don't want my tires to last only a few thousand miles. I know 0 Toe would be optimal, but how long do you think I can last with proper 3k tire rotation/balancing?
Car feels good though. Drove on freeway with no vibration/steering and the car felt way better then it used too. I would definitely recommend these guys if anyone needs an alignment done in San Diego.
Last edited by Smike; Nov 3, 2010 at 04:38 PM. Reason: Fixed it for you...
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
For clarity: -3/4 = -.75, correct?
For a DD, should not be too bad. Odd to see -.75 up front using the -1 bolt selection. Typically you see a lit over -1 with OE and that bolt selection.
For a DD, should not be too bad. Odd to see -.75 up front using the -1 bolt selection. Typically you see a lit over -1 with OE and that bolt selection.
Ya those should all be -

After:
Camber:
LF -0.75
RF -0.75
LR -0.75
RR -0.75
Toe:
Front IN 1/16
Rear IN 1/16
Forgot to hit a space after the tire position, so your assumption was right
Odd? Is it usually between 1-2?
I mostly use it for a DD. I try not to get too crazy around the streets, but sometimes it happens

After:
Camber:
LF -0.75
RF -0.75
LR -0.75
RR -0.75
Toe:
Front IN 1/16
Rear IN 1/16
Forgot to hit a space after the tire position, so your assumption was right
Odd? Is it usually between 1-2?
I mostly use it for a DD. I try not to get too crazy around the streets, but sometimes it happens
Ya those should all be -

After:
Camber:
LF -0.75
RF -0.75
LR -0.75
RR -0.75
Toe:
Front IN 1/16
Rear IN 1/16
Forgot to hit a space after the tire position, so your assumption was right
Odd? Is it usually between 1-2?
I mostly use it for a DD. I try not to get too crazy around the streets, but sometimes it happens

After:
Camber:
LF -0.75
RF -0.75
LR -0.75
RR -0.75
Toe:
Front IN 1/16
Rear IN 1/16
Forgot to hit a space after the tire position, so your assumption was right
Odd? Is it usually between 1-2?
I mostly use it for a DD. I try not to get too crazy around the streets, but sometimes it happens

It is surprising to see less than -1.0 on the front. Will it work for DD? Absolutely.
I was just thinking the same thing...
The front you can flip the bolt two directions to get -1 or -2, then you can set the alignment specs from there.
Since you have a fairly conservative setup, I assume this is mainly a daily driven car.
I would recommend 0 Toe all around. Will help with turn in, and better on tire wear. Toe in is what most cars will setup to get some understeer and better stability at high speeds. Helps a car with oversteer issues.
The front you can flip the bolt two directions to get -1 or -2, then you can set the alignment specs from there.
Since you have a fairly conservative setup, I assume this is mainly a daily driven car.
I would recommend 0 Toe all around. Will help with turn in, and better on tire wear. Toe in is what most cars will setup to get some understeer and better stability at high speeds. Helps a car with oversteer issues.
Last edited by Touge Factory; Nov 15, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
I had a question...say you wanted a tad more aggressive setup cause you enjoy cornering alot. What would be a bit more agressive then what he has? In the middle of track and DD.
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-2 camber, 0 toe in front. Tune from there, adding camber or taking away camber to your liking. You can dial in a little toe out in front for better turn in.
run a little less camber in the rear, .5 less negative camber is a good starting point. Then run 0.05-.10 toe in the rear. Toe in, in the rear helps stabilize the car at high speeds. If you run 0 toe in the rear, it will feel loose and unstable. Under acceleration/squat the rear suspension toes out.
run a little less camber in the rear, .5 less negative camber is a good starting point. Then run 0.05-.10 toe in the rear. Toe in, in the rear helps stabilize the car at high speeds. If you run 0 toe in the rear, it will feel loose and unstable. Under acceleration/squat the rear suspension toes out.




