Evolved Member
Put it back on the rack and look for any big differences in caster and camber side to side. You may still have something bent. If that checks out okay, tell the tech to fiddle with toe until it is exactly zero. I can't explain why it worked but I have fixed a pull by only adjusting toe.
Evolving Member
Same problem with my car! Though i really think its my brakes since sometimes i can hear sorta of a noise coming from the front right wheel.
Alright guy update!!! I am very frustrated at this point, I have some ABSURD alignment readings for you guys. The car started at lexus, then went to mitsubishi and then ended up but still not resolved at Rick Case Honda. Keep in mind that on my latest alignment I requested -2.0( or as close to it) for the front and between -1 and -1.2 in the back with ZERO toe all around.
(after Mitsubishi)
LF (-1.2) RF(-0.4) Camber
3.3______ 3.4 Caster
-.03______ .19 Toe
LR (-3.0) RR(-.5) Camber
0.16______ 0.25 Toe
(after Mitsubishi)
LF (-1.2) RF(-0.4) Camber
3.3______ 3.4 Caster
-.03______ .19 Toe
LR (-3.0) RR(-.5) Camber
0.16______ 0.25 Toe
The car is still pulling to the right. When they swithced the two front tires the pull was almost non existent
(maybe even pulled to the left a little) . Now that they put the tire back it is pulling pretty hard again.
Now Keep in mind my request was the same -2.0 in the front and -1 -(- 1.2) in the back and with ZERO toe
all around. After reading this tell me what you guys think, It would also be helpful If someone could provide me
with OEM alignment specs for the evo, because I'm struggling to explain to both insurance and these shops that
there should be more camber in the front in relation to the back. apparently there are no specfications for the
Front camber only the rear. I would greatly appreciate any help, Thanks in advance
My Latest and current alignment ( Rick case Honda)
Lf (-.08) RF(-.09) Camber
3.6________ 3.6 Caster
0.0 _______ 0.0 Toe
LR(-1.2) RR (-1.2) Camber
0.12 ________0.11 Toe
(maybe even pulled to the left a little) . Now that they put the tire back it is pulling pretty hard again.
Now Keep in mind my request was the same -2.0 in the front and -1 -(- 1.2) in the back and with ZERO toe
all around. After reading this tell me what you guys think, It would also be helpful If someone could provide me
with OEM alignment specs for the evo, because I'm struggling to explain to both insurance and these shops that
there should be more camber in the front in relation to the back. apparently there are no specfications for the
Front camber only the rear. I would greatly appreciate any help, Thanks in advance
My Latest and current alignment ( Rick case Honda)
Lf (-.08) RF(-.09) Camber
3.6________ 3.6 Caster
0.0 _______ 0.0 Toe
LR(-1.2) RR (-1.2) Camber
0.12 ________0.11 Toe
Evolving Member
Take it to a good evo shop, I know you have plenty down in FL. Let them inspect the front end and suspension. JOB DONE!
Evolved Member
Factory specs.
Front
Toe = 0 +- 0.08 inch
Caster = 3 degrees 55 minutes +- 30 minutes
Camber 1 degrees +- 30 minutes or 2 degrees +- 30 minutes
Rear
Toe in = .012 inches +- 0.07 inches
Camber = -1 degree +- 30 minutes
Suggestion: if you move a tire and see a change try moving the tire to the rear.
Front
Toe = 0 +- 0.08 inch
Caster = 3 degrees 55 minutes +- 30 minutes
Camber 1 degrees +- 30 minutes or 2 degrees +- 30 minutes
Rear
Toe in = .012 inches +- 0.07 inches
Camber = -1 degree +- 30 minutes
Suggestion: if you move a tire and see a change try moving the tire to the rear.
Evolved Member
Quote:
This seems rather damning to me with regard to the wheel. I wouldn't be doing anything to the alignment until the wheel is fixed.Originally Posted by suby2evo
The car is still pulling to the right. When they switched the two front tires the pull was almost non existent (maybe even pulled to the left a little) . Now that they put the tire back it is pulling pretty hard again.
Evolved Member
well from readin from some of your specs, your camber on the left front was really negative compared to the right front. So that couldve caused some uneven wear, wear now the car wants to pull to the right. Theres your answer its in the tires, that or your driving on a street that has a lot of road crown. So best bet try to keep that worn lf tire on the rear as much as possible till you can get it replaced, or deal with the pull to the right and keep the wheel somewhat corrected.
Quote:
Before the accident my alignment was good and there was ZERO pull. The car has Stock sized dirrezas with about 1000 miles that were put on prior to the accident. Since the accident the car hasn't even been driven 100 miles so any wheel/tire problems that I have now are a result of the impact.Originally Posted by dastallion951
well from readin from some of your specs, your camber on the left front was really negative compared to the right front. So that couldve caused some uneven wear, wear now the car wants to pull to the right. Theres your answer its in the tires, that or your driving on a street that has a lot of road crown. So best bet try to keep that worn lf tire on the rear as much as possible till you can get it replaced, or deal with the pull to the right and keep the wheel somewhat corrected.
Evolved Member
then you might have some other issues still pertaining even though the car is in specs... doesnt mean somethings not shifted or bent, could be a control arm, a knuckle, a hub, a bent tie rod, theres numerous things, have they shaked down the front end of the vehicle??
Newbie
Dude, if you swapped the tires left to right and the pull is gone slash a little to the opposite side then ur tires\wheels are causing it. I would push to have the rim and tire replaced for the side of the car that was hit. The whole point of swapping the wheels\tires left to right was to prove that it was the tire\wheel and you did that. All the alignments in the world won't fix ur tire\wheel. Get it replaced ASAP. Any tire place will tell you the same i would think?
I had new tires put on and it caused my car to pull... so they swapped them and it pulled in the opposite direction... from that the tire place determined it was a bad sidewall... replaced the tire.... and voila no more pull.
I had new tires put on and it caused my car to pull... so they swapped them and it pulled in the opposite direction... from that the tire place determined it was a bad sidewall... replaced the tire.... and voila no more pull.
Evolved Member
We have fewer than 20 posts between us, qwerty, so he's probably not going to listen, regardless of the fact that we are giving him the rather obvious answer.
Evolved Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa999
This seems rather damning to me with regard to the wheel. I wouldn't be doing anything to the alignment until the wheel is fixed.
Yep I agree.
To the OP, did they mention or did you request for them to do a roadforce matching and inspect the tire wheel assembly for imbalance/out of round? The impact may have damaged a wheel and caused enough force to tweak your tie rods and maybe other suspension components. Are you able to get under the vehicle and inspect it yourself?
Evolved Member
Quote:
(after Mitsubishi)
LF (-1.2) RF(-0.4) Camber
3.3______ 3.4 Caster
-.03______ .19 Toe
LR (-3.0) RR(-.5) Camber
0.16______ 0.25 Toe
Originally Posted by suby2evo
Alright guy update!!! I am very frustrated at this point, I have some ABSURD alignment readings for you guys. The car started at lexus, then went to mitsubishi and then ended up but still not resolved at Rick Case Honda. Keep in mind that on my latest alignment I requested -2.0( or as close to it) for the front and between -1 and -1.2 in the back with ZERO toe all around. (after Mitsubishi)
LF (-1.2) RF(-0.4) Camber
3.3______ 3.4 Caster
-.03______ .19 Toe
LR (-3.0) RR(-.5) Camber
0.16______ 0.25 Toe
Whomever at the dealership sent your car away with those specs should be fired.