I hate understeer
My suggestion to any one who is experiencing turn in or mid corner understeer is no not touch the cars settings and to get more seat time and experience. 90% of the time its driver error.
You will never be able to out drive the limits of your car, and when you think you are, give the keys to someone more experienced and see what they can do in it. After you establish your experience and driving style them mod accordingly to how you drive and your class.
You will be amazed what the stock Evo is capable of. I won my division on street tires and stock suspension while all the other cars had "performance setups".
Seat time is a cars best mod. The driver can always improve
You will never be able to out drive the limits of your car, and when you think you are, give the keys to someone more experienced and see what they can do in it. After you establish your experience and driving style them mod accordingly to how you drive and your class.
You will be amazed what the stock Evo is capable of. I won my division on street tires and stock suspension while all the other cars had "performance setups".
Seat time is a cars best mod. The driver can always improve
New to my evo, only had it a couple of months. Only street use for now, might like to try some ax at some point. I'd like to get rid of the turn-in to mid corner understeer I experience. My limited experience in fwd cars has me wanting to add a larger rsb, but reading here it seems like that isn't the best option. Does the rear diff rebuild or acd reflash have any effect off throttle, or is it only when you are on the power?
The TRE rear diff only works on throttle. It won't fix steady state push. That's due to the weight balance of the vehicle.
Get the TRE MAX LOCK rear diff... it'll transform your Evo. Especially if you auto-x...I would suggest it prior to buying ARB's
Jon can be reached by email or phone. Shoot him an email with your phone number and let him call you back. He's closed on Monday's but will get back to you when he's not building killer drivetrain parts!
The Evo puts about 1000 pounds on the front tires and about 640 on the rear tires. They run the same size tire front and rear. The car will inherently understeer. Because of the Mac Strut design of the front suspension the camber gain under bump is minimal at best. You'll need to run an excessive amount of camber... And you need to increase the spring rate and control that increased spring rate with quality dampers. If you put in the TRE rear diff it will help you focus on your real issues... steady state balance. You won't be tempted to do wild stuff to generate oversteer, when your real issue is not being clouded by your most recent event (corner exit understeer)
If your turn-in sucks... I suggest running a boat load of toe out. On an auto-x course I love putting in a 1/4" of toe out.
In response to Thoe99's comment, you'll find you can get on throttle at the apex or just prior and start driving the car out of the corner sooner with the rear diff, instead of waiting for the car to straighten out and then punching it.
Get the TRE MAX LOCK rear diff... it'll transform your Evo. Especially if you auto-x...I would suggest it prior to buying ARB's
Jon can be reached by email or phone. Shoot him an email with your phone number and let him call you back. He's closed on Monday's but will get back to you when he's not building killer drivetrain parts!
The Evo puts about 1000 pounds on the front tires and about 640 on the rear tires. They run the same size tire front and rear. The car will inherently understeer. Because of the Mac Strut design of the front suspension the camber gain under bump is minimal at best. You'll need to run an excessive amount of camber... And you need to increase the spring rate and control that increased spring rate with quality dampers. If you put in the TRE rear diff it will help you focus on your real issues... steady state balance. You won't be tempted to do wild stuff to generate oversteer, when your real issue is not being clouded by your most recent event (corner exit understeer)
If your turn-in sucks... I suggest running a boat load of toe out. On an auto-x course I love putting in a 1/4" of toe out.
In response to Thoe99's comment, you'll find you can get on throttle at the apex or just prior and start driving the car out of the corner sooner with the rear diff, instead of waiting for the car to straighten out and then punching it.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 757
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From: VEGAS
While wider wheels and tires will help with overall grip, it does not change the overall balance of the car, just puts a higher limit at which understeer occurs.
Rear bar could definetly help, but may not be needed.
High rate springs do not create more grip and may or may not help the balance of the car. If you are hitting bumpstops due to inadequate spring rate, then change the springs for sure, but until that point, figuring out what the car is doing to cause understeer and at what point would be more helpful.
I run 14k front springs and 10k rear with a larger front bar and rear bar on its softest setting and have lift throttle mild oversteer, mid corner the car is neutral and end of corner mild understeer with throttle (primarily because of having a bunch of power)... most people would say this would be a recipe for massive understeer everywhere, but it's not...
Dan
Rear bar could definetly help, but may not be needed.
High rate springs do not create more grip and may or may not help the balance of the car. If you are hitting bumpstops due to inadequate spring rate, then change the springs for sure, but until that point, figuring out what the car is doing to cause understeer and at what point would be more helpful.
I run 14k front springs and 10k rear with a larger front bar and rear bar on its softest setting and have lift throttle mild oversteer, mid corner the car is neutral and end of corner mild understeer with throttle (primarily because of having a bunch of power)... most people would say this would be a recipe for massive understeer everywhere, but it's not...
Dan
Testing my car in the street does nothing for me. If you want sign up for the next scca autox at PBIR and we can talk there. I have yet to see a fast autox evo here in South Florida.
Last edited by RevMoto; Aug 23, 2011 at 10:47 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Fremont
Im out of here before I get gang raped.
Stop going into turns with throttle, you would solve most of your understeering issues.
You can go in it with momentum, weigh transfer should help you rotate.
If you dont know how to weigh transfer or if you cant, your suspension setup is wrong & will continue to understeer.
Most JDM yo' first thing is lowered with lowering springs only brings more understeer.
With exhaust Louder than it is fast.
Last edited by MTZL; Aug 28, 2011 at 07:52 PM.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
1. 05-06 had ACD.
2. As I have stated USDM does not equal JDM. Anything beyond that in this thread is MUTE. OP has a setup. Has an issue. Throwing money or JDM crap at it - not going to do anything but waste money.
3. Yes, you should stop wasting our time.
You clearly have nothing to back up your mouth. Here's a little quote I want you to memorize.
It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt. -- Mark Twain
Alright it is back alive. So swift 9k/11k springs are on the way and I will run higher rates this time and post my video. My next race isn't until the 18th so I have some time.
bumping this thread.. similar setup minus the coilovers (gtworx springs/bilstein hd struts) + bushings and a few other differences.. i may try going with coilovers and/or a fsb to help with that turn in/mid corner stuff
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